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1-3-2-4's head gasket replacement


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Ahh so it came on the SUS? Hmmm.... I can probably forget about ever finding one of those then. If I see that car again I'll chase them down and steal it. :lol:

 

haha yeah the sus is pretty rare don't seem to too often here.

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Lets see if sleep helped lol...

 

ok I got 0.18 on the intake the spec calls for 0.20 the shim I pulled was 2.56 then the replacement should be 2.54?

 

Having said that... I can switch out that exhaust shim because I got 0.20 on that and more it to the intake..

 

also my mic was not calibrating right the numbers would always be off after closing back to zero with the ratchet stop.. I noticed my caliper does 0.0001"

 

my 2.56 mm shim shows as 2.56 on the display :)

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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jesus finally got it.. one head alone is like almost $30 in shims....

 

I will leave out the valves that don't need new shims..

 

So for the intake it was .18 with the 2.56 mm shim so to get it to .20 I need a 2.54 mm shim

 

for the exhaust side same stuff..

 

.18 mm with 2.48 shim = 2.41 for .25 mm?

 

drivers side is going to be real fun with everything all mixed up...

 

having said that whos job is it to take out the lifters mine or the machine shop? I might just take them out since I already have the passenger side bagged.

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Hmm so I got curious.. I tested my old wires.. and low and behold I found one that was open... funny thing is I never got a misfire code for that but you could feel it in the morning the on-ramp the car would kinda jerk but after it warmed it up it was fine..

 

Now in the event that my plugs wont come fast what's the harm of short term use of SOHC plugs on a DOHC motor?

 

I'm about to check the coil pack about that misfire on 3 & 4 but it was not related to the wire thing. It would sometimes show up and blink the CEL and nothing crazy happens at all as far as car feel.. I've heard things like a bug in the ECU and Subaru is not going to do much about it.

 

Checked It's a Diamond and I got 21 K on 3 & 4 and 1 & 2

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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Pedal faster dude we ain't gonna make it! :lol:

 

If you know where/how everything goes it might save you some $$ to disassemble the head before you take it to the machine shop. Leaving the valves in won't matter, but the rest it helps to have out.

 

My local shop didn't even bother, I had to take it all apart later to clean the shavings out. But it wasn't a big deal since I had to take it apart anyway, then found out something pretty important was missing all along. :lol:

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damn only loosely put the passenger head on before it started storming like crazy.. it really was not the storm that stopped me but it was pouring rain like mad and I'm under a tarp lol

 

I've seen so many people get confused so here is a guide

 

DSC_2695.jpg

 

DSC_2696.jpg

 

speaking of that 1 & 3 cleaned up really nice

 

IMAG0812.jpg

 

lol tried to make a cool shot

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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Ha! You're lucky to have a tarp, I did HGs and a timing kit replacement once in a storm (Seemed like a damn hurricane) :lol:

 

That head looks nice and smooth.

 

lol I've been very lucky this week since this whole week they were calling for rain but today was the first time out of the whole week it rained.. but LOL like always this coming week all nice and sunny... ugh..

 

but yeah heads are nice and smooth.. I soaked the head bolts in motor oil and screwed them in finger tight for the time being.

 

Today I went to the dealer to get the exhaust gaskets and a new IAC gasket.. I did not bother with the shims.. matter of fact I don't think I'm going to change them at all.. I can almost grantee this was the first time this motor has been pulled like this.. How rare is it to have gaskets that hit 200K?

 

My girl is getting a little antsy since she is coming up next month lol keeps asking me you still working on the car? haha

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Can someone help me I'm stuck.. the intake manifold is back on and all the sensors connected however I forgot to take a picture of the IAC and where that coolant line and where it goes it.

 

Also anyone know what size the thermostat housing bolts are? As good as I was bagging stuff I'm missing one bolt.

 

bolt size is M6x1.00?

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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The tensioner pulley that's should move up and down right? I don't understand why it wont when it set to anything but finger tight..

 

When set it does not rotate just to check I saved the old one and it does the same it wont pivot up and down when set to the 29 ft-lb.It does when it's only finger tight...

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lol..

 

here is what I don't get.. the drivers side is set up right.. and the passenger side the marks are not really lined up but the tooth count matches with the notch at the top.. As far as that belt tensioner I left it finger tight for the time being until I can 100% make sure that I have the timing set right..

Here is a picture..

 

the notch on the side of the exhaust cam counting up to the top of the notch on the intake is 28 but why does the cam look like that? It sure did not look like that when I took the old belt off. :-/

 

IMAG0829.jpg

 

I'm tried going to stop for tonight

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I do not follow the markings on the belt or tooth count. I just make sure everythings lined up and stick the belt on.

 

I have never done a timing belt on a EJ25D and am not sure about the tensioner design.

 

Don't rely on markings except those on the sprockets and block.

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lol people always say to count to be sure.. I dunno I'm tired lol maybe I will be recharged in the morning.. I could put the motor back in but I want all the room I can get now.

 

Only other thing I can think of is don't set the intake cam on the mark so when I install that last pulley near the oil filter it will finally line up right..

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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