cookie1 Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 92 Loyale, 4wd, manual. Having some issue after reaplacing the timing belts. Start from the begining. car has run great till now. Driver side timing belt broke while driving. Got it home fixed the belts (Ive done them before so its nothing new). checked the timing with the green plug connected =18btdc disconnected it and drove it for a few days. noticed it had a really bad flat spot between 2-3k. It also lopes at idle, and hesitates from a stop and in other gears from time to time. hestates bad in 5th gear on the highway also between 2-3k. Fuel milage is down. During highway drives over 8 miles long the check engine light would come on, then go off after a 1/2 mile of driving on back roads, so I was never able to check it while on. Im assuming the computer doesnt store codes. Not sure if this has anythiong to do with it but I notices the elec. fan was never plugged in, so I plugged that in during the belt change. Yesterday I checked the belts were on correctly, changed the plugs, set timing at 20btdc and it seems to run a good bit better but it still lopes at idle. Old plugs didnt seem bad, other then normal wear. Hope somebody has an idea of whats going on. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 i know you said you checked them but check the timing belts again? sounds like something is off. are you positively using the correct marks on the crank sprocket, sometimes folks use the wrong mark? should be able to check stored codes using the black/green connectors - a certain combination is "Read Memory" mode. may have to clear them, wait for it to come back though if there are multiple codes. maybe it's unrelated to the timing belt change but it's unlikely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 maybe a tooth off on the driver side cam, it is tricky to get the belt on around the cam sometimes, and judging the slack before tightening the tensioner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 To be the noisy guy in the corner, check all your vacuum lines. I just did my timing belts (driver side broke, what a coincidence! anyway). In getting around the motor I apparently undid a couple vacuum lines to make room for...I don't even remember anymore. Or maybe I was taking the air intake off the injector to check for fuel and didn't reconnect the vacuum lines after...I don't remember. Anyway, point is to check that there are no loose wires or vacuum lines hanging out waiting to be reconnected. Had similar symptoms--laggy, luggy, flat spots...took me a week of the same "d* it, I KNOW the cams/belts are RIGHT this time!" to realize I'd forgotten this simple thing. And as Miles said, it's easy to misjudge the driver side cam if you are doing it in the car (especially if you leave the radiator in). Might want a mirror and flashlight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phxmotorelectri Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 jc alreadt... its the tbelt. Itsone tooth off. quit looking elsewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie1 Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 So far I redid the timing belts over the weekend and made sure everything done correctly. Drove it for two days and still lacks power and still has a vibration at idle. Today I left it running after getting home and pulled of one plug wire at a time and when I pulled off either one off from the passanger side head it all but stalled the engine. Moved over to the driver side head and pulled the rear drivers plug wire and it had some effect but not like the two on the pass side did. Pulled the front drivers side plug wire off and no change at all. I could see & hear the spark arching to the plug so I know its got spark.:-\ I have a comp. tester but it was getting dark maybe ill try that tommorow. It was the drivers side timing belt that broke, fyi. Is this engine a non interfearance or not? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 this is not an interference engine. all EA/ER series engines are non interference, no subaru engines are until 1996. good check pulling the plug wires like that, sounds like you're on to something. are you absolutely positive it wasn't running like this before the timing belt change? it would be really odd for something to break the exact second you do a timing belt job - so that makes it hard to differentiate since we only have words to go by. but - if that one plug isn't making a difference maybe you have a bad fuel injector or FPR (probably the former is more likely if it's isolated mostly to one cylinder). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie1 Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 Positive it did not run like this prior to the belt breaking. Its spfi so I would think that rules out the injector being at fualt, unless I am missing something. Im not real familar with the electrical aspect of this car, is there something electrical or computer controled that could cause a cylinder not to fire at the correct time, but still fire? I wouldnt think so but I thought I would throw it out there. I checked that all plug wires are routed correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie1 Posted July 28, 2011 Author Share Posted July 28, 2011 Did a comp. check last night all cylinders came up with in a few psi of 130. I checked it when the engine was fully warmed up and cranked the engine with the gauge hooked up (coil wire off of course). Guessing this is the correct way to do it. Please correct me if I am wrong. Just to see what it acted like I pulled the plug wire off the one cylinder I suspected was an issue and attempted to drive the car - pretty much impossible to drive. So that rules out that cylinder being any type of issue. Other then the vibration at idle and some hesitating pulling away from a stop it drives fine. Going to look for vaccum leaks now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpholz Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 is the tensioner for the driverside tbelt in good working order? I had an 89 xt in which the driverside tensioner bolt stripped outta the block, but not obviously so. gotta remember we have aluminum motors cant be throwing a ton of torque on those bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie1 Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 Yea - tensioners are good. Checked for vaccum leaks also didnt find any. I read the codes WITHOUT the memory plugs connected and theres nothing. (cel not on but does come on and go off) read them WITH the memory plugs connected: 11Crank angle sensor or circuit 13Crank angle sensor or circuit 32Oxygen sensor or circuit question is - how old are these codes. Assuming I should clear them and drive it again till I get a cel, then read the codes. I also have a used dist. that I know is good and just swap them and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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