xbeerd Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 Ok, so i am in the process of the ej swap, using a ej25 and wiring harness from an automatic 2000 Outback (legacy) i thought i would do a dry run of the harness on the bench, what i did was.. -connect black/red (always HOT) wire to my battery+. -connect GND to the battery- -Connect the power side (Green/red) of the fuel pump relay coil to battery+ -connect one of the other fuel pump relays to battery+ (wires on that side of the relay.. red/black or blue/black, doesnt really matter which to connect i wouldnt think) well.... i touch the green/red wire which is the ignition switch wire to battery+ and the main relay trips as i would expect, but the fuel pump relay (hooked up to my volt meter doesnt show voltage at all. however. if i take the wire off the battery+ the fuel pump gets 12volts+ constant. does that seem right? i would think i should get the 1.5-2secs of fuel pump ON when i touch the ignition switch wire to the battery+.. NO? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 think it could have something to do with the fact i was bench testing it and not having it hooked up to the motor causing all sorts of faults that it wont begin to try to start the process? bah. i'll just put the harness on the car and try it tomorrow i should be happy i got power to the damn thing, LOL! there is also one issue that i run into is that the power to the ecu circuit doesnt shut off the ecu when turning off the car. Tosh on the board also has this issue with his, he just cuts power to the constant power. but I am wondering if there may be another reason this is happening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 did you ground the harness? is there a common ground eyelet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 no eyelets but there seemed to be a common ground throughout. keep in mind i was doin this on my desktop, not actually in the car, which could be part of the problem. everything seemed to power up. as the relays DID trip. so thats a plus, i'll try it in the car tomorrow if i get a chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 There are grounds on the manifold side of the harness that may be important for ECU operation, etc. If you didn't have a manifold hooked to the harness - it will do strange things with the fuel pump. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 thanks! gonna put it on the car today (maybe.. its supposed to be 97 degrees today) and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 Cool - let us know how it goes for you. Just as an aside - if you pull the engine (and thus the manfiold harness) out of an OBD-II car and then turn on the ignition (to unlock the steering wheel and get the car out of park for example) - the fuel pump will click on and start dumping fuel on the ground till you turn off the key . I've had this happen a couple times to me. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 Cool - let us know how it goes for you. Just as an aside - if you pull the engine (and thus the manfiold harness) out of an OBD-II car and then turn on the ignition (to unlock the steering wheel and get the car out of park for example) - the fuel pump will click on and start dumping fuel on the ground till you turn off the key . I've had this happen a couple times to me. GD LOL yeah im aware of that minor detail, i was going to test it with a buzzer/light/ or voltmeter hooked up to the fuel pump power lines before hooking into the fuel pump wiring. rather than empty my tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 there is also one issue that i run into is that the power to the ecu circuit doesnt shut off the ecu when turning off the car. Tosh on the board also has this issue with his, he just cuts power to the constant power. but I am wondering if there may be another reason this is happening? Did you remove the diode that prevents the Alt/Igniter/Coil circuit power from backfeeding? that would do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 Plugged the harness into the engine, ecupower, and fuel pump coil and power line to battery+, and ground to battery- ign wire to battery+ and voila, all seems to be working as it should. yay. thanks for the tip GD about having it ON the car to test i think Tosh is right tho. it seems as the obd2 wiring is much easier than the obd1 wirin for the swap. not that i have attempted the obd1 swap, but just from reading about it on the ea2ej doc. For hooking up the CEL indicator, vss, etc couldnt i just connect/tap those things right at the old ecu plug pin since the old ecu isnt there anymore? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 Did you remove the diode that prevents the Alt/Igniter/Coil circuit power from backfeeding? that would do it. HMM... where is that? or are you saying that removing that, is the cause of this problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shuffbag Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 nah it looks like a single fuse like block that normaly one color goes in and another out. when people snip it, they lose power to certain parts of the loom. for example trace the thin yellow wire from the fuel pump relay (which is a swithed +) it has one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 my harness doesnt have a yellow goin to the fuel pump relay, has light green, green/red, red/blk, blue/blk. or did you mean from the ea82 side of things??!@ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Did you remove the diode that prevents the Alt/Igniter/Coil circuit power from backfeeding? that would do it. not applicable on OBD II systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 thanks chux! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 Ok, so i have my wiring somewhat at hand. i power the harness, touch the ignition wire and the fuel pump kicks on for a couple like its supposed to. so. can anyone think of WHY my tail lights might be always on?!?! i pulled the dash out previous to this, before i started the swap, i just noticed it today for the first time, not sure if it did it prior to today, im guessing not since my battery wasnt dead. any ideas?!?! or plugs i may have crossed? its kinda hard to cross a plug in there with all them being colored and different sized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Where is your EJ harness getting it's power from? What did you touch on the stock harness that might have caused that.... Hard to say. I've never experienced that issue before durring a swap. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 is it the bright break lights that are stuck on 24/7 or is it just the "its night time and you have your headlights on so the tailights get lit up" lights that are on? also are any of your other lights on with the tail lights? corner markers, is the dash lit up etc? or will these lights turn on like they normally should? I'd also try checking the stereo area if you have that pulled apart, I know some stereos get a + from the *illumination* circit (IE all your lights that light up when you've got the headlights on) so that the head unit dimms when its dark in the car. as for the VSS stuff you can tap into that behind your dash if you don't want to/cant hook it up to your old ECU's home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 (edited) currently... 12v+ directly from the battery, grounded to the body near the center of the car. as far as i can tell its just the tail lights not any other lights... (*tosh.. not the brake lights, at first i thought my dash might have been hittin or sittin on the brake light switch but not the case. i thought maybe a relay was stuck open or something (not sure if they were actually ON a relay or not, i didnt think they were), but i pulled all the relays and didnt make a change. im at work for another 8 hours today after that i'm going to pull the dash back out and double check my ************, and also hopefully i'll be able to start the car today.. or atleast attempt to! Edited July 24, 2011 by xbeerd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 (edited) maybe a dumb question but.. Could this be from one of the 2 wires off the alternator possibly? like if they were reversed? Edited July 24, 2011 by xbeerd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 maybe a dumb question but.. Could this be from one of the 2 wires off the alternator possibly? like if they were reversed? No - that *shouldn't* be able to cause the tail lights to be on. The only thing I can think of is that you got some plugs swapped around under the dash dealing with the lighting system.... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 No - that *shouldn't* be able to cause the tail lights to be on. The only thing I can think of is that you got some plugs swapped around under the dash dealing with the lighting system.... GD yeah thats my guess. not wiring related. but where would i find vacuum line to T into for that stuff under the dash? i think i saw a vacuum line on the passenger side of the intake manifold i could T into? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 I AM A DUMB rump roast. Sometimes the blatantly obvious is overlooked.... i will paypal $5 to the person who figures out why my tail lights wouldnt go off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Was the virgin switch on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 Virgin Switch? LOL, im guessing you are right, pending definition of virgin switch. god i feel like a total choad anyways.. i fired up the car, it started no problem what so ever, now i just need some exhaust gaskets, the rear half of the exhaust. some kind of solution for the powersteering pressure hose. and i think thats it. yay! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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