soobie_newbie67 Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 (edited) my car just started making this noise after we had put the new rear main seal in and got the engine installed today. this car is driving me crazy. i cant do anything right. its always one thing after another. this car just wont let me fix it. I DO NOT HAVE THE MONEY FOR A EJ SWAP SO PLEASE DONT BUG ME ANYMORE ABOUT IT! after this car is noise free again, im selling it and driving my Navajo. Edited July 23, 2011 by soobie_newbie67 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlass69 Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 sounds like a rod... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrabrat Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 (edited) Don't be so hard on yourself... once you get her running right you won't want to get rid of her. Since you replaced the rear seal I am wondering if the flywheel or clutch wasn't bolted on properly. Get a long screw driver, put it against the bell housing and put your ear on the handle... see if you can't hear/feel the knock. Sounds like a rod knock but that doesn't make sense with a seal replacement. Edited July 21, 2011 by tundrabrat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Yeah, that sounds like a completely gone rod bearing. Hold it at 6k rpms for a couple minutes and you'll know exactly which one it is going by which rod makes an appearance out the top of the block. Here's hoping the flexplate/flywheel bolts weren't tight and that's whats rattling, but they usually have a different sound to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboXT Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Did you pull the engine or trans? Auto or manual? Check flexplate bolts (guessing it's an auto) or there is a metal plate at the bottom of the engine/tranny bellhousing, maybe check that the plate isn't touching the starter ring, or no bolts are in the bellhousing..... I wouldn't rev it high, that seems like a bad idea.... Check the oil? Just some thoughts..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 I agree with tundrabrat. This sounds more like something is hitting the flywheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Pull each plug wire, in turn, and see if it makes any differences. It does not sound like a rod knock to me - rod knocks are most audible when under a load - and usually they will make a "back rattle" when you rev the engine and quickly snap the throttle closed. It sounds mechanical and being you just had the engine out.... I'm also voting for something amiss in the bell-housing area. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 (edited) ok. i'll check the bell housing area. BTW, 5 speed manual. here's some new info. i was driving it home last night after dropping a friend off. as i was going down the road, i was in second gear full throttle at about 3500 rpm, the noise all of sudden got worse, i felt a significant drop in power, and now it makes this noise all the time. i'll make a new video of the noise. it sounds like a very wet clanking noise. ok, i made some vids that i will have posted soon (HD camera, have to clear up some space on my computer the vids then wait 1 hour for it to download on youtube) made a video of it from a cold start to fully heated up. some idea's that my grandpa got that might be wrong: he was just saying to me while i was typing this that i might have collapsed a piston or piston ring (something like that); our employee was saying it might a wrist pin. here's some more info on my side. when i was out driving it, i was holding 200 degrees perfectly. when i started noticing the smoke, i shut it down instantly. i pulled over and checked for where it was coming from. it had only been 30 seconds before we got back in the car and my aftermarket guage was reading 265 degrees. (the ************ was soo hot that the hot side of my turbo was glowing when i opened the hood.) we rolled down a hill with the engine off (about 3/4 of a mile) and when i got to the bottom of the hill i checked the oil, which was just above the add hole on the dipstick. i had a quart of oil with me and topped it off, then drove it home about 3 miles. it did not make this noise at all the whole time i was driving it home. i just dont get it. Edited July 21, 2011 by soobie_newbie67 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 " went out to do some 0-60 times in my 1988 Subaru GL-10 and blew the rear main seal. we pushed my car about 1.5 miles and drove it at very low rpm's most of the time. we had to drive a total of 6.5 miles to get back to my house." You had no oil pressure? If you didn't the bearings wipe and the piston skirts scuff. They're not actually supposed to touch the cylinder walls. The oil film seperates them. Same with the bearings. "i was in second gear full throttle at about 3500 rpm, the noise all of sudden got worse, i felt a significant drop in power, and now it makes this noise all the time." That engine may be toast. hth Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 (edited) "went out to do some 0-60 times in my 1988 Subaru GL-10 and blew the rear main seal. we pushed my car about 1.5 miles and drove it at very low rpm's most of the time. we had to drive a total of 6.5 miles to get back to my house." You had no oil pressure? If you didn't the bearings wipe and the piston skirts scuff. They're not actually supposed to touch the cylinder walls. The oil film seperates them. Same with the bearings. "i was in second gear full throttle at about 3500 rpm, the noise all of sudden got worse, i felt a significant drop in power, and now it makes this noise all the time." That engine may be toast. hth Doug i had oil pressure. the seal wasnt completely all the way out. also the dash never indicated that i had no oil pressure, it just blew a little out and then didnt leak anymore. i dont get it. oh, just wanted to add this; dont know whether or not is significant: i have redlined the car twice (2 times) since i did the rebuild. Edited July 21, 2011 by soobie_newbie67 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 ok. i'll check the bell housing area. BTW, 5 speed manual. here's some new info. i was driving it home last night after dropping a friend off. as i was going down the road, i was in second gear full throttle at about 3500 rpm, the noise all of sudden got worse, i felt a significant drop in power, and now it makes this noise all the time. i'll make a new video of the noise. it sounds like a very wet clanking noise. ok, i made some vids that i will have posted soon (HD camera, have to clear up some space on my computer the vids then wait 1 hour for it to download on youtube) made a video of it from a cold start to fully heated up. some idea's that my grandpa got that might be wrong: he was just saying to me while i was typing this that i might have collapsed a piston or piston ring (something like that); our employee was saying it might a wrist pin. here's some more info on my side. when i was out driving it, i was holding 200 degrees perfectly. when i started noticing the smoke, i shut it down instantly. i pulled over and checked for where it was coming from. it had only been 30 seconds before we got back in the car and my aftermarket guage was reading 265 degrees. (the ************ was soo hot that the hot side of my turbo was glowing when i opened the hood.) we rolled down a hill with the engine off (about 3/4 of a mile) and when i got to the bottom of the hill i checked the oil, which was just above the add hole on the dipstick. i had a quart of oil with me and topped it off, then drove it home about 3 miles. it did not make this noise at all the whole time i was driving it home. i just dont get it. This is A LOT more info than in your first post. Especially this part that you deleted(?) went out to do some 0-60 times in my 1988 Subaru GL-10 and blew the rear main seal. we pushed my car about 1.5 miles and drove it at very low rpm's most of the time. we had to drive a total of 6.5 miles to get back to my house. Now I think I agree with Quidam......its toast. Unless you find something when you check the drivetrain parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Engine is done. I know that sound all too well as I had 2 EA82Ts die with that noise. Time for another engine. I actually have an EA82T that I'm not sure whats up with it. If you want it, come pull it and its yours. All I know is that the last person to DD the car said it was starting to overheat. I'm just going to scrap it and drop in my EJ22T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 A good rule of thumb, DONT REDLINE AN OLD ENGINE if you want it to last. Now back to my damed POS GEO TRACKER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 This is A LOT more info than in your first post.Especially this part that you deleted(?) Now I think I agree with Quidam......its toast. Unless you find something when you check the drivetrain parts. i didnt delete it, i had another thread up about the rear main seal. thats where that info came from. Engine is done. I know that sound all too well as I had 2 EA82Ts die with that noise. Time for another engine. I actually have an EA82T that I'm not sure whats up with it. If you want it, come pull it and its yours. All I know is that the last person to DD the car said it was starting to overheat. I'm just going to scrap it and drop in my EJ22T where do you live??? distance might be an issue. A good rule of thumb, DONT REDLINE AN OLD ENGINE if you want it to last.Now back to my damed POS GEO TRACKER my engine was fully rebuilt. i didnt think it would be a problem. im never doing it again though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 where do you live??? distance might be an issue. I'm located in Kirkland, just east from Seattle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 here's some new info. i was driving it home last night after dropping a friend off. as i was going down the road, i was in second gear full throttle at about 3500 rpm, the noise all of sudden got worse, i felt a significant drop in power, and now it makes this noise all the time. i'll make a new video of the noise. it sounds like a very wet clanking noise. I retract my former analysis. That engine is toast. Ah..... the wiley ways of the EA82T. They sure have a way of sticking it to ya don't they? . Sorry about your situation - I think I warned you about this engine didn't I? I would say "sorry about your luck" but it's hard not to be unlucky with that engine. :-\ It takes a very special type of person to rebuild an EA82T and make it last. Sadly those of us that could do it have no desire to do it since we are awash in EJ parts. I counted just a few days ago and I have like 5 EJ22 short blocks in my shed.... not to mention a pile of EJ25D parts besides. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 I retract my former analysis. That engine is toast. Ah..... the wiley ways of the EA82T. They sure have a way of sticking it to ya don't they? . Sorry about your situation - I think I warned you about this engine didn't I? I would say "sorry about your luck" but it's hard not to be unlucky with that engine. :-\ It takes a very special type of person to rebuild an EA82T and make it last. Sadly those of us that could do it have no desire to do it since we are awash in EJ parts. I counted just a few days ago and I have like 5 EJ22 short blocks in my shed.... not to mention a pile of EJ25D parts besides. GD yeah, you did warn me. and a couple months ago i was having some problem i dont remember and i actually said that you owe me an "I told you so" cause i didnt listen. but another problem i have is money. i dont have the money to buy the engine and wiring harness; someone else would have to modify a harness for me if i were to do a swap; and my grandpa is being a *************** by not letting me do the modification when its my ************ing car cause he says he doesnt want me getting into the wiring stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 You'll dump more money into the EA82T then you would in doing an EJ22T swap. I spent over $10k into my first black RX and I went through 3 EA82Ts.... Right now into my EJ22T swap (even though its not running yet), is only $1200 and thats with the Impreza transmission and a Legacy rear VLSD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) and my grandpa is being a *************** by not letting me do the modification when its my ************ing car cause he says he doesnt want me getting into the wiring stuff. Why doesn't he want you doing wireing? You aren't going to learn if you aren't allowed to screw something up - hell the engine is freakin shot so what's the big deal about hacking into the wireing a bit? And if he knows how to do it better than you then why isn't he helping you? The EA82T is a pile of steamy poo - if this doesn't convince him of that then I don't know what will. A little wireing is no big deal - especially when you stand to gain so much reliability and power. You don't even need to do the EJ22T - just a non-turbo EJ would be a lot more power than the EA82T ever made..... And besides all that - there doesn't have to be any modifications done to the car's wireing. You are just adding a fuse block, and a piggy-back harness. The car *could* be put back to bone stock if you do it right. Go to the junk yard, pull a harness, and strip it down yourself. Then bring it to your grandpa and show him that you have done the reasearch, stripped the harness, and know exactly what needs to be done. Take the initiative! GD Edited July 22, 2011 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 Why doesn't he want you doing wireing? You aren't going to learn if you aren't allowed to screw something up - hell the engine is freakin shot so what's the big deal about hacking into the wireing a bit? And if he knows how to do it better than you then why isn't he helping you? The EA82T is a pile of steamy poo - if this doesn't convince him of that then I don't know what will. A little wireing is no big deal - especially when you stand to gain so much reliability and power. You don't even need to do the EJ22T - just a non-turbo EJ would be a lot more power than the EA82T ever made..... And besides all that - there doesn't have to be any modifications done to the car's wireing. You are just adding a fuse block, and a piggy-back harness. The car *could* be put back to bone stock if you do it right. Go to the junk yard, pull a harness, and strip it down yourself. Then bring it to your grandpa and show him that you have done the reasearch, stripped the harness, and know exactly what needs to be done. Take the initiative! GD i have no money GD! i got in some stupid rump roast legal trouble and now im 6000 dollars in dept to my grandparents, which im working on paying back, and a car that keeps breaking down isnt helping me when its their money going into it. i bought a 1991 Mazda Navajo (Ford Explorer knock off) and all it needs is a clutch and slave cylinder (messed those up myself) then i think im getting out of the Subaru stuff till i can find one that doesnt have a turbo. i even told my grandparents about this one kid from school who is going to sell me his perfectly good Legacy 2.2 EJ22 engine, transmission, and uncut wiring harness for 300 dollars and my grandparents told me we cant even afford that right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Sounds like it might be time to grow up a little. The cars are not breaking down on you. You are abusing the ************ out of them. You can't expect your grand parents to pay for your recklessness. Park both the cars. Get a cheap POS daily driver. Earn the money to fix them or buy a new one. Also: No one on this forum is going to be able to help you if you expect these old cars to put up with the ************ that you have given them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T'subaru Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) Well, how do I follow up on some very good advice youve been given? Ive read this before but as I recall heres how it goes, " to become old and wise first we need to overcome being young and dumb" and im not saying you are, its not my "saying"...the point is if your hopelessly broke, 1 car and relying on others to keep you going possibly babying that vehicle would be the smartest plan. And yes I was young once:grin: and more than once I recall thinking " If only I had listened to"..... Edited July 22, 2011 by T'subaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 You've got to take the initiative - if you don't have money then you will have to trade your time, labor, etc to either get some money or barter for parts. The barter system is not dead and you have this forum, craigslist, etc.... you live in a Subaru rich state.... Someone has a derelict Legacy that you can "earn" somehow - you just have to want it badly enough and shout about it loud enough. I have got at least half a dozen cars over the years for dirt cheap - including a 78 wagon for $1, a '92 Legacy for free, '91 Legacy for $200, and an '86 D/R sedan for $100...... ALL of which I DROVE HOME. Why? Mostly because I'm loud, memorable, and people know I like Subaru's and will "rehome" them like lost puppies. Post in the wanted section - make a craigslist posting - make flyers with crayons.... someone has what you want and needs yard work. I've been where you are - barely able to afford the gas to get to work. Somehow I managed to get the parts to get things done. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlass69 Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 i agree with GD 100 percent you sound like you need to just grab life by the horns do what needs to be done to get were you want to be. if you let people tell you you can't do something long enough you will start to believe it, anything is possible with the will do do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 And I can tell you as a young guy myself... Ive been in your shoes. I got lucky, and you might too, find a Subaru master in your area that needs help in exchange for some parts, or their shop to work on stuff, or even a car. GD gave me that oppurtunity and I can say that I knew maintenance on a car, now I could swap a motor, I cleaned up his parts shed and helped him swap motors and stuff, he worked with me to get my DL on the road but then offered me Ned a lot cheaper than I would find it on craigslist. The best part of this is I know that nothing is wrong with Ned that was "pre-existing" that I started driving and BAM need something new because GD bought him and repaired him so he could be driven, and that car is doing great! Needs a few things here and there, but thats wear and tear on a vehicle, no big deal. Some Subarus can handle abuse, depending on their history... If you put a motor in a car and you seal everything correctly, bolt it to torque specs, it can handle so much. I have put extreme use on Ned, including hard starts, quick shifts and hard braking, and I havent blown a seal... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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