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what strut spring compressors are you using for EJ's?


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didn't see a dedicated thread for this.

 

best option i read was to use three of the just simple single unit threaded style compressors. they usually come in packs of two, but three keeps them safely from wanting to tweak to the side.

 

i've seen folks suggest not use the HF compressor (like porcupine mentioned it)

 

never done this before so would rather err on safety and ease.

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i borrowed (pay deposit get it back when return) from autozone the 2 piece threaded clamps.

 

 

Trick i found out was to clamp them on before you jack the car up. The weight of the car on the springs keeps them close. Just snug compressor bolts while car is on ground. Then jack car up, then remove strut/spring assembly. Then you don't have to tighten much to get the top mounts off.

 

install with the clamp still on them and loosen to line the strut bolts up to you chassis..

 

please someone else chime in for more info.

 

-hints. mark with paint pen the position of the spring coil, the top mount, and the top holder....

 

-hint. also mark a dot on the outer part of the perch so you install same way it was removed from car, there is a outer hole and inner hole on perch so mark the outer.

 

-hint for fronts, before front removal spray paint over the knuckle camber adjustment area so it will mark the position of the camber slot, so you can install and not have to go in for alignment....you could also scratch the line with an awl

Edited by bheinen74
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Some good tips, but why are you using the spring compressor while removing and installing the strut. That seems like a total PIA . I just used my impact, took no time at all.

 

Anyways, I just borrowed one from auto zone, it was a better quality than hf and did not cost anything. Just make sure to mark each part so you can assemble it the same way it came apart. I won't kid you, it is a pain in the rear. The rear springs are easier. Just make sure to compress the spring equally or it makes it hard to get back together. Makes it easier if you are using the same springs. I changed springs also so it was twice the work.

Edited by Rpm90001
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At auto Zone I got the OEM struts compressors I used them on my '95 Legacy and I really beat on them.. hammered on the side of them while loaded so it would move a bit more because my socket on the impact got stuck on the body of the strut housing.

 

Whatever you do just keep the treads oiled.. I had a small bottle of left over gear oil.

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At auto Zone I got the OEM struts compressors I used them on my '95 Legacy and I really beat on them.. hammered on the side of them while loaded so it would move a bit more because my socket on the impact got stuck on the body of the strut housing.

 

Whatever you do just keep the treads oiled.. I had a small bottle of left over gear oil.

 

Omg..I could of wrote this same post... That was me,whacking the compressors to move them a little to get the socket on. They were stuck on the strut body.

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Omg..I could of wrote this same post... That was me,whacking the compressors to move them a little to get the socket on. They were stuck on the strut body.

 

Yeah lol it's a fine line on how far you can go and have it compressed enough to take the top hat off.

 

Once I got the hang of it I did 2 struts in like 10 min.. I had all air tools

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have used the HF spring compressors for both of our cars - all 4 corners on each - with no problems - altho, i wouldnt recommend using an impact gun on them (not the best quality for that kind of abuse) and yeah, keeping the threads oiled DOES help.

 

It really isnt that hard to do them by hand - if a girl can do it, you big strong guys ought to be able to do it. ;):grin:

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I might be doing it all over again.. my struts were blown very bad on my 95 Legacy at like 230K my current OBW has 225K on it and I'm sure it's the same factory struts when new.. I had no clue that the springs were so cheap at the dealer I might do all 4 before winter I hope..

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have a set of rear to do now on my OBW. fronts later. i'd rather buy something if i can get something decent for $50 or so.

 

crack - everyone has had to use a hammer and alignment is tricky? painting? there's a dust boot in the way right? doesn't seem like good access to see how everything is fitted, guess it'll make sense when removed.

 

alignment is easy - i've done zillions of axles, bearings, etc.

 

by "harbor freight for all 4" - do you mean the big clamp one-piece $59 type or the little two piece all-thread type?

 

i saw some folks write that you don't even need the compressors to reassemble the rears?

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My 2000 legacy, there is not a chance in hell to do the rear with out a spring compressor. If there is it's a not a 00 legacy sedan. If you have 225k on the don't wast the time doing just the springs. I had a broken front spring, I was just going to change the front springs an call it good. I was changing them to pas inspection. When I got them apart, both top mount bearings were bad, and the struts were totally shot, there was no resistance when expanding and contracting them. It is a lot of work to swap springs on to struts that have 200+ k on them. Mine were shot at 122. I did not see any leaks.

 

I got monroe sensatrac from advance auto. Amazon wanted $255 for all 4, advance auto matched the price for me.

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Why not borrow a quality set from autozone? HoW often are you going to do struts? If you do them again...just borrow another set. I feel the quality of the loaner set is very good. I always buy tools when I need them, I have done struts on 3 cars in the last 20 years all 3 I borrowed. It cost you zero.

 

Here is a link to the same set they loan out. You basically pay for it and they refund your money when you bring it back.

 

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-MacPherson-strut-spring-compressor/_/N-26gi?itemIdentifier=70135&_requestid=491329

Edited by Rpm90001
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i thought about it, i asked but the closest advanced auto parts to me didnt have them, i'd have to go to one of the other stores which are further out of the way. and they wouldn't deliver to that store like they do parts, i had to go to the store that physically had them.

 

i live in the middle of nowhere and my schedule is crazy so it's probably a little more beneficial to me than the average person to have tools on hand. i have two rear struts to do now and two front struts to do in the near future, both on daily drivers.

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I just did the rear struts on my 2003 OBW, due to a need to make an emergency repair. The right rear strut's bottom spring seat rusted to the point that it let go of the strut tube, and the spring extended fully, (with an impressively loud BANG!) dropping the right rear corner all the way to the bumper-stop thingie.:eek:

 

I ordered the KYB struts from RockAuto, and replaced both the rears. The struts themselves were still working fine, but I saw that the spring mount on the other side was pretty rusty too, so I figured its best to change them both at the same time. As far as I can tell, the KYB GR-2 (or Excel-G as they are now called) are the exact same strut as the OEM.

 

I had a pair of Strut compressors called "MacStrut" that I had bought several years ago. Just to be safe, I bought a pair of the Harbor Freight Screw-type compressors right before the job, and I'm glad I did. On the first spring, one of the compressors twisted into a weird position, and I had to use a 3rd compressor to free it without causing a big problem.

 

After that, I found that clamping a small pair of vise grips on the spring just "uphill" from the lower two-jaw clamp really helps to prevent it from "walking" up the ramp and getting skewed at an abnormal axis. The upper single jaw has the two J bolts with wing nuts to hold it in place, so that really doesnt seem to move as much.

 

To take off the upper mounting nut, I used a deep 17mm socket that I held in a pair of vise grips, and the appropriate long handled allen key, again held with vise grips, to break the nut free, and remove it.

 

Yes, you must compress the spring to do it properly. An uncompressed spring is just too long to allow the top to be mounted. As for mounting the spring compressor while the spring is still compressed on the vehicle: That's a personal choice. I briefly considered it before I removed the strut, but I just didn't see how it would be that much easier.

 

It is very easy to attach and tighten the spring compressors after the strut is removed from the vehicle, and the tightening only takes a small amount of time with an impact wrench and a 24mm socket. I was careful to use the lowest possible torque setting on my wrench so I would not damage the compressors.

 

I found that the HF compressors worked surprisingly well. No complaints at all, and for a great price.

 

Matt

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I forgot not everyone lives 2 minutes from a parts store. I'm just a few minutes away. What ever set you get, they still are no fun.

 

I did the same thing with the socket and vice grips and Allen wrench. Worked perfect till got to the rear. No Allen head in the top of the rear strut. Lucky I had a offset wrench. Mine were Monroe not Kyb

Edited by Rpm90001
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