Mykeys Toy Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 I had hg issues on my 86 gen 2 hatch that a generous board member helped me with put it all back together got it timed and it runs fine. The motor mounts were good the only hiccup we were having was the carb. I know the choke on the weber needs replacing but once warm it will run and sounds as it should. The problem is the low idle 5-700 Rpm and the thing shakes with the hood propped up it is a little exaggerated. The carb has been readjusted a few times and yes I sure my friend has a good working knowledge of the carb. Just covering all my bases with the info. Is there anything I am missing or something else I should look into? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skysm182 Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 My engine would vibrate or shake until I found and fixed a vacuum leak. maybe try checking for disconnected hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirk Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Idle should be about 900rpm. Does it still shake at this speed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 My engine would vibrate or shake until I found and fixed a vacuum leak. maybe try checking for disconnected hoses. Or a dodgy spark plug/lead that's not holding its own at idle, making the other three plugs do the work... Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Or a dodgy spark plug/lead that's not holding its own at idle, making the other three plugs do the work... Cheers Bennie This would be where I'd start. Check everything in the ignition system first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 I agree - check plugs/wires and the coil resistance. You can check to see how much each cylinder is doing at idle simply by pulling the plug wire off. If it makes no difference then you have found a cylinder that is not fireing either due to ignition system issues, lack of fuel (vacuum leak) or lack of compression (valve timing?). GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 This might be part of the problem however I didnt have near as much problem before Rob and I did the headgaskets on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 If the severe vibration stops almost instantly when you lift off the gas pedal and comes back again when you get on the throttle again, it could very well be a bad DOJ (on the axle you installed recently). Very characteristic symptom of a bad inner joint on the axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 The close proximity of the plug wire can be mitigated by using the Hitachi's phenolic spacer under the adaptor as well as gaskets on either side of it - makes the whole assembly taller. Also the manual choke variant of the Weber fits without interfering with the disty like that at all. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 The whole thing was like that the day I bought it from Mudrat many years ago. I think that the spacer that is missing is probably my biggest issue with the carb and disty clearance which is why I am still using the tall air cleaner. I will have to do some more poking around after work tomorrow I was feeling unmotivated today so the other car got a bath instead. Ed, I suppose I should state that this is with the car sitting in the driveway and not moving. Everything smoothes out after I give some go juice. This is something that I will need to get worked out before the summer is over but is not dire for WCSS I can fit all that I need into the sedan. I will post again when I have more info or a resolved issue. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Yes - get the short air filter if it's not lifted (about $15 to $20 from EMPI, etc), and add the spacer under the carb. Give the engine a little more ignition advance if it will take it also - 10 degree's, etc. Also if you find a good 2WD distributor (Nippon) the cap has more favorable locations for the wires. With a little thought the plug wire near the choke housing problem is easily solved. If that's all that "He who's name shall not be mentioned" screwed up on your car you are a lucky man! GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 No that isn't all but most was just minor and I did get some burly bumpers with it. They aren't pretty but they do take some abuse like when a friend slid too close to them in his Honda.. Gouged his car and left not a mark on the bumper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Or a dodgy spark plug/lead that's not holding its own at idle, making the other three plugs do the work...Bennie We have a winner! not one but at least two and both on the same side. Its a miracle the darn thing ran at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 Started messing around with it after work and tried to get an arc around the plug side of the wire and has plenty of juice. tried swapping for some older wires and still nothing.. I will see about some new plugs tomorrow and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 OK a few more things down. tried everything in my power to see if I could make it run right. cap,rotor, coil,plugs and wires. Nothing. The old plugs were carbon fouled (too much Gas) So after a few hours of confusion I called a friend down. He was darn near as confused as me. So today after work will do compression test first just to rule that out then check valve lash. beyond that I am out of ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted September 4, 2011 Author Share Posted September 4, 2011 Finally got to compression test yesterday. cyl 1 and 3 were right where they should at a lil over 125#. 2 and 4 had 30 and 65ish #. Turned out to be the freakin valve lash. That neither of us checked after getting the heads back from the shop. So after all that and a little bit of weber retuning runs like a top and is nice n quiet. The only thing anyone could hear when I ran it around the block was the weber sucking air as I mashed the pedal. SO all is good now just need to clean up a few connections and get her tabbed. Ed and GD Thanks for the help and tips as well as some ideas on where to start looking to make things right or better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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