EA-82 Timing ? Or please help a dense ole brain

[bigjimd]

Trying to get this puppy back together and am confusing myself. I just found MilesFox's great writeup on replacing the tbelts. I goofed up when I pulled the motor down and didn't mark the disty at TDC. Dumb of me to not realize I was gonna have to pull it when the cam cover came apart to clean everything. So between the book and the how to here I think I got it. The timing belt marks really have nothing to do with TDC so I just follow the writup. And then I keep following MilesFox's instructions to get to the 0 mark and install the disty with the rotor pointing at #1. Am I correct in that?

Once again thank all y'all

 

Here's the write up, a great help!!!

 

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

[idosubaru]

sounds like you got it down to me, give it a whirl and see what happens.

 

my favorite way to line up the disty is to look at another running vehicle with the same engine, those things are tricky to get right otherwise!

 

i've always thought i should just take a picture of some orientations involved for the XT6 site for this issue.

 

good luck

[bigjimd]

OK one last question. At the end of this process having made all the revolutions clockwise, when I arrive back on the 0deg TDC mark I will be on the compresion stroke not exhaust stroke right? Whats throwing me is how do I know that I haven't got this thing 180deg out from where it was before I started? Or does that matter? As y'all can tell I know just enough to mess things up.

[donnieru]

Hi. If you look at the disty it has a arrow on the bottom of the aluminum housing near the timing gear.

That arrow mates up with a little dot on the disty gear to let you know where number one is supposed to be.

Transfer a mark from where the rotor is pointing, to the ledge where the disty cap rides.

Turn the engine until the tdc mark.

Verify that the little hole on the passenger side cam gear is up.

Now roll the engine counter-clockwise until the timing arrow on the flywheel points at 20.

The little hole on the passenger side cam gear should be at approximately the 10 o'clock position.

Drop the disty in and make sure that the rotor points at the mark that you put on the housing.

When you drop the disty try to make sure that your bolts are evenly spaced in the oblong holes so that you can have full range of timing adjustment.

As long as your engine is set as above, when your disty points at the number one terminal it will be at 20 btdc.

[MilesFox]

following the belt install procedire, with the cam dot up, there will be 2 crank rotations to bring you back to that mark once th belts are on, then, from there, bring up the o deg mark, and that is TDC on #1.

 

install the disy so that the rotor points at the brake cylinder. The rotor will ine up to the right of the screw/clip for the cap. If the rotor is 180 off, just flip the dsty.

 

If you keep track of the rotation sequence, it's foolproof.

 

Tip: the dot on the passenger side cam will be pointing at the hard ridge on the valve cover just above SUBARU when the engine is at TDC for #1

[bigjimd]

Thanks guy's here's a run down of what I did with some pics of where I wound up when finished. The screwdriver is pointing to where the passenger cam mark is lined up. Does this sound/look right?

 

1. I had the motor at the center of the 3 belt marks before I broke into it. So that's where I started with putting the belts on after reassembling the cam's and all

 

2. Installed drivers belt with the cam pointing up. Tensioned belt.

 

3. Rotated crank-360deg-1 full revolution. Drivers cam pointed down , passenger cam pointing up. installed belt. Tensioned belt.

 

4. Rotated crank-360deg-1 full revolution. Driver cam up, passenger cam down.

 

5.From the above crank posistion rotated crank directly to the 0deg mark.

 

6. Installed cap on disty, marked body at #1 wire.

 

7. I had made a scratch mark on the disty and mount giz where the bolt goes before dissasembly so I now have that mark lined up with the rotor pointing at my #1 mark and the 0deg mark lined up.

 

8. Success?? I hope so anyhow.

 

MilesFox if you read this I think it matches up with what you told me in your above post except for the part about pointing to the ridge over the Subaru script. Could the writting be in a different spot on some valve covers?

 

Here are the pics

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Again all y'all rock thanks a bunch!!!

Jim

 

And before you ask no the tires arent the engine stand. They were to hold it while I swapped the bellhousing and flex plate for the flywheel. Aint it all pretty and shiney after getting refaced at the machine shop?

Edited July 31, 2011 by bigjimd

[bigjimd]

Bump

[bigjimd]

Bump. Ready to put this in and don't want to have screwed up.

Thanks

Jim

[bigjimd]

Triple bump? Anyone? Sunday it's going back in.

[Cougar]

I'm not sure about this but if number 1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke it seems to me that the disty is 180 degrees out. I may be wrong though. It has been a long time since I have looked at that.

[bigjimd]

Well the motor and trany are in. I'm sure you old timers will know, but I have to learn the hard way most times, but guess what. A turbo tranny takes a bigger clutch than a non turbo. Bigger diameter and higher spline count. A turbo tranny also has larger stub axles. bigger diameter and higher spline count. I caught the clutch early didn't see the stub axle till I tried to slide the half shafts back on. And here I was all paying attention to the pin alignment. Anybody need some fresh reman non turbo half shafts? Probably have a couple thousand miles on em. As much as I have been reading here you think I woulda caught that tidy little fact. Oh and 86 Turbo XT shifter and clutch bucket assemblies will not fit a 93 Loyale no how no way. I think the final drive ratio is the same not sure how it will be in the intermediate gears. Now lets see how long the rest takes me. Get the gage cluster swapped, install the cruise control, pedal bucket, steering column, wire up the back up lights, and clutch start interupt switch. I think I will wire the clutch switch to power a relay to energize the starter selenoid so the load comes off the ignitian switch. Seen a lot of you guys doing that and that's how I wired up the 91 Toyota pickup. It's been starting first time for the past 3 years with that mod. She found a sunroof, roof rack, and rear spoiler that's gotta get done too. Man I'm tired of the heat and humidity.

Thanks for all the help y'all.

[bigjimd]

Thanks guys!!!! I mean thanks a bunch!! Pulled the fuel and ignitian fuses cranked a few times for 30 seconds or so. Put the fuses back in. Hit the key and whamo started right up. Sounded like it was self destructing. Scared me so bad I had to pull the oil pressure sending unit to see if I had oil pressure. Oil ran out so I figured it was pumping. The swapped in cluster doesn't seem to have a very good oil pressure gauge. Ran it for a few times of 5 minutes at a time for 6 or 7 times and it kept getting quiter and quiter. She just purrs now. Can't wait for the daughter to hear it. And thank you Mizpah folks if you happen to read this.