The FNG Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 I really wish hitting things with a wrench made them work better! I have been trying to troubleshoot this darn cooling system since I bought my soob. I have done the intake manifold gaskets, a new thermostat and gasket, water pump with gasket ant o-rings for the outlet pipe, new radiator cap, checked the radiator for cold spots (found none), and burped the system. So after all of this, here is what I find: After I fill the system and get all the air out, I run it to operating temp by driving, etc. At first, everything goes well, then I start hearing the swirling under the dash. The temp gauge stays at 1/4 the whole time. I let the car cool off for a few hours and go check the coolant level which I always find to be low in the radiator, but the over-flow tank is completely full. The coolant never goes back into the radiator. So, if I don't push it from the over-flow back to the radiator and re-burp the system every time I drive it, it gets air in the system and starts to get real hot. The only other thing is that I have duct tape over the over-flow tank lid because I lost the cap, but I'm not sure if that really even matters. So what gives? This is really starting to frustrate me. Thanks for helping in advance! Oh, 92 Loyale 5spd pb 4x4 EA82 PITA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 (edited) Duct tape over the resevoir cover is not a problem as long as it can vent. After I lost my cap and to keep fluid from splashing out I have used a zip lock bag pulled over the top, zip tie to keep it on and small hole in top of bag for venting .. so not the issue. The fact that the resevoir is filling... that is an issue. Your radiator cap is new but is the surface where the seal is made clean and smooth enough to form a seal. Try clening that with a green scotch bright pad. It sounds like as your system comes up to temp it is leaking past... possibly off brand radiator ment for different cap?.. possibly it is plugged radiator and over pressurizing ...... possibly a small split in that seating area allowing fluid to pass. The cap is there to seal and build pressure and release if over pressureizes.... and it should not be filling your resevoir everytime you run your engine. Just some ideas... keep us posted. Edited July 31, 2011 by Indrid cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 I start hearing the swirling under the dash. silly question, but did you turn the heat selector to hot when you were filling the system so that the heater core is getting filled/burped as well???? "swirling" sound under the dash says heater core to me.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The FNG Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 silly question, but did you turn the heat selector to hot when you were filling the system so that the heater core is getting filled/burped as well???? "swirling" sound under the dash says heater core to me.... Actually, not a silly question at all... because no I didn't . I will try that tomorrow. I do know that I really don't get any heat when I turn it to heat, so maybe it will fix that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 This is an L series GL DL etc yeah? If so the heater core will still be getting fluid regardless of the heater control setting, it is not like the MYs with a tap in the heater hose lines. Swirling under the dash - any warm air coming from anywhere under the dash? Got a funky smell in the cab or wet carpet that you can't explain? My guess is that your heater core has a crack in one of the plastic end tanks and this is opening up when it gets hot then closes again when you let it cool. I had a noise that I thought was static in my speakers that had me wondering what was going on with my stereo system - about 50km later at speed on the freeway (110km/h) there was a little pop and my legs were getting very hot and I couldn't see out the windscreen as the steam of my coolant hit cool windscreen. Not fun, they are time bombs. And they can leak a little bit that's enough to notice at the radiator end but not enough sometimes to pick up in the cab until they've either developed a larger leak or go pop. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 yes, it is very possible that the heater core is done for - not a fun job either. but, unless ALL air is burped from the system it is hard to tell. raise the front end of the car, open heat selector all the way to hot to be 100% sure it is fully circulating - burp that system thoroughly - if the air gets back into the sytem after a thorough burping, there is a crack or pinhole somewhere.... and el_freddo - you have the heat/cool thing backwards... heat expands - ie: closes gaps/cracks cool contracts - ie: opens gaps/cracks either way, if there is a crack it will suck air into the system creating problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The FNG Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 I will give it a shot. Can I just use a hose to remove the heater core without causing any issues? I understand I wont have any heat in the winter, but whatever . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 If it's not leaking coolant on the carpet and steaming up the interior with a sickly sweet smell, the heater core is most likely fine. Other than the swishing noise of air bubbles in the coolant going through the heater core (which is a symptom of low coolant in the system, not a bad heater core), is it overheating? It often takes refilling the radiator a couple times to get all the air out of the system. Poke a hole in the duct tape on the resevoir so it can vent and also relieve the suction when it tries to drain back into the radiator. If it's overheating, pushing coolant into the resevior, and you can hear air bubbles going through the heater core, I'd suspect a headgasket. But if it's not overheating, I'd wait and see and keep it full of coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The FNG Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 FML It's head gaskets:lol:. I just went to check the issue on my car and there are tiny little bubbles very very tiny like fizz in the top of the radiator. So because I want to shoot my car, light it on fire and roll it off a cliff and then some, I need to fix it before it happens:banghead:. Can you guys help me compile a list of gaskets, etc and everything I will need to do a head gasket list. Leave nothing out. Here is what I have in my head: FelPro head gaskets intake manifold gaskets valve cover gaskets and the little rubber screw thingy's coolant oil and filter PS I will be doing this in the engine bay. The engine will not be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Keep the car full of coolant and keep driving it. If it starts overheating, then you need to do headgaskets. But don't assume tiny bubbles in the radiator means you have to do headgaskets. You can also use a combustion gas leak detector (blue fluid in a percolator that you bubble the radiator gasses through and it turns green if HC's are present) to check if the gaskets are leaking into the coolant. If you just jump on an idea an start tearing ************ apart, you'll waste a lot of money and time for no gain. Diagnose then repair. Not chuck work and parts at it until something sticks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The FNG Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 I have never let it overheat, but I can't say that the PO never did. It has had this issue since I have owned it. I would say that more often than not, the motor tries to overheat, but I turn the engine off. Then if I let it sit, it drives cool, but has the swirling sound and pushes coolant into the overflow. Did the compression gas test and it failed:-\, so I ordered the FelPro head gasket set on Rockauto. Thanks for the help everyone! I guess this was just a small leak that was not so recognizable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Also make sure the head's mating surface is flat - if not have them shaved a little to ensure they are. If re-installed with warped heads the head gaskets will not last long! Cheers Bennie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Did the compression gas test and it failed:-\, so I ordered the FelPro head gasket set on Rockauto. Thanks for the help everyone! I guess this was just a small leak that was not so recognizable. sorry to hear that, :-\ but at least it is still fixable! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The FNG Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 sorry to hear that, :-\ but at least it is still fixable! ya, ************ happens. Hopefully this is not as much of a PITA as it seems to fix. Is there a special sequence to remove the head bolts and put them back on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 removing - dont think so retorquing when putting back on - yes, there is a special sequence for that. I personally dont know what that is, but I am sure someone here can let you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The FNG Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 I found the sequence for installing head bolts and their torque specs in some old Subaru files I have, but noting on removing them...Also recently read something about a special Subaru socket:confused:??? what is that about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 removing - dont think so kinda.. leave the top outer bolts in by a few threads just in case the head wants to fall off the block.. other then that it's easy.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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