jarl Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 I have replaced most, if not all the things on my list. I have tried to clean everything as much as I can (alas, no success there ). I have spent a fair amount of time just looking at the EJ22 from every possible angle... So... what am I missing? Is there a spell you need to pronounce loudly before installing the engine, or any particular dance to invoke the automotive gods? More importantly: what is it that people often forget when replacing the engine? (the temperature sensor seems to be in that list). I would hate to tighten the last bolt and realize I forgot something idiotic than can't be done without removing the engine again... I'll be installing the intake manifold after bolting the engine (easier access to the flex plate bolts). Is there any easy way to blow any crap that might have made it's way into the fuel lines? So far in my list: - Fill the cooling system with plain water to flush it, then fill with the appropriate coolant (green?) - 5W30 oil. I think I'm going to use MMO the first few miles, and change the oil and filter again after that - Spray some lubricant inside the pistons? - ? I'm putting a post-it over the ignition switch saying "Oil?" as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 reseal rear separator plate. if it's the plastic variety, the metal is better and won't crack. need matching screws to go with it (or go get your own). clutch kit if MT? throw out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch retaining clips. oil pan can't be resealed without lifting the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share Posted August 5, 2011 (edited) I had listened to you before, Sensei (and GeneralDisorder, and lots of others to whom I apologize for not mentioning their names) So far... - Oil separator (plastic) was replaced with the one from the EJ25 (stamped metal) and resealed using anaerobic. - Oil pan was replaced with the one from the EJ25, and resealed using ultragrey - Oil pickup tube o'ring replaced - Transmission is automatic, so no clutch to overhaul. The flexplate from the EJ25 was transferred into the EJ22 - Oil pump o'ring replaced, back plate screws re-tightened with blue threadlocker, and the pump resealed with anaerobic - Water pump replaced with new one, resealed - Camshafts seals and crankshaft seal replaced - Camshaft o'rings replaced - Timing belt idler pulleys and tensioner pulley replaced - Valve cover gaskets and screw seals replaced - Sanded out a good deal of the rusted/corroded crap out of the exhaust manifold. It's not possible to make it completely smooth without removing a lot of material, though... Hmmm... Other than fixing one of the exhaust manifold threads, I think that's pretty much it (and re-booting the axles!) The main concerns I have right now are potential corrosion of the cylinders, drained HLAs, and junk on the cooling system and inside the fuel lines (underneath the manifold) Edited August 5, 2011 by jarl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 i thought you had, but i can't keep track of everyone's cars/projects, etc. sounds like you're on it. did you adjust the valves? knock sensors fail fairly regularly so you could install a $30 ebay special now, but they're not hard to do on the car either....annoying and tight, but still only a 20 minute job. being an automatic, you could replace that little quarter sized filter inline with a vacuum line on the passengers side from the strut tower to the engine. has a piece of foam-ish type material around it. i've seen those cause EGR codes and automatics shift very poorly. they're $7 from subaru. PCV valve would be a good idea too. install ATF lines on the transmission *before* you drop the engine in, much easier having that room. i often install a really long ATF hose that goes all the way from the trans to the cooler. this reduces the multiple clamps where they tend to leak anyway and bypasses any metal lines that some models have that tend to rust out anyway. fewer leakage points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share Posted August 5, 2011 You mean you can't keep track of 754 projects at the same time? I'll get a new PCV valve (is aftermarket Ok?), and I'm going to check the small filter you mention. I'm not sure about replacing the ATF lines, though... I used to drive a Citroen, and I learned not to get too creative with some stuff I'll check to see if the lines are leaking... The EJ22 is from '95, so it has the small hydraulic lifters. I was considering bleeding each one, but I understand I can let the engine run from some time until the HLAs get filled without hurting anything. Is that correct? Regarding the fuel lines: the morons at the junkyard didn't plug the hoses they cut, and I don't know for how long those things were open. If I remove the injectors can I use a blow gun on the lines without damaging anything? Another thing I discovered last night: the idle air control valve looks rusted inside. I'm going to swap it with the one from the EJ25. In general the stuff from the 2.5 are in better condition (were working not long ago) than the stuff from the 2.2... is there anything else I should be swapping at this point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 You mean you can't keep track of 754 projects at the same time? I'll get a new PCV valve (is aftermarket Ok?), and I'm going to check the small filter you mention. I'm not sure about replacing the ATF lines, though... I used to drive a Citroen, and I learned not to get too creative with some stuff I'll check to see if the lines are leaking... The EJ22 is from '95, so it has the small hydraulic lifters. I was considering bleeding each one, but I understand I can let the engine run from some time until the HLAs get filled without hurting anything. Is that correct? Regarding the fuel lines: the morons at the junkyard didn't plug the hoses they cut, and I don't know for how long those things were open. If I remove the injectors can I use a blow gun on the lines without damaging anything? Another thing I discovered last night: the idle air control valve looks rusted inside. I'm going to swap it with the one from the EJ25. In general the stuff from the 2.5 are in better condition (were working not long ago) than the stuff from the 2.2... is there anything else I should be swapping at this point? I remember reading somewhere on this forum, that a 2.5 to a 2.2 swap requires the mounting bracket off the 2.5 to be moved to the 2.2 to mount the A/C compressor, or maybe it was the alternator? I can't remember. You may already know the answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share Posted August 5, 2011 You are 100% correct. Both brackets have been transferred already. I'm starting to reconsider: should I put the intake manifold before installing the engine? I would expect torquing the flex plate bolts to be a pain in the lower back is I do. Am I correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Just removed the TC bolts on my wagon tonight. Pulling the engine for head gaskets and to fix an oil leak in the bellhousing area. It's not that bad. It can be done with a 1/4" ratchet with a short cheater pipe on it. The handle of a floor jack usually works. I've also used a serpentine belt tool. I had to grind down the end of mine a bit but it works great, and plenty of torque on tap because of the length. Or you can use a 0 offset box end wrench if you have one. If the ATF lines are old, just replace them. They're really easy to do with the engine out of the car. Hoses are cheap. Having to swap the trans, because it burns out after one of the cooler lines blows out and pukes all the fluid out all over the road, is expensive and time consuming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 What I meant was it would be difficult to use a torque wrench through the small port on the bellhousing if the intake manifold is in place. When I removed the EJ25 I used two extensions to go underneath the intake manifold and it was extremely easy, but I think I had loosened the manifold before that. On the ATF lines: what I found the hard way on the Citroen was that changing the routing of anything related to the hydraulic system would bite you in the lower back eventually. Vibration or friction would eventually make you regret changing anything But of course those lines ran at very high pressure, which is not the case here. Do you replace the entire lines (from the transmission to the cooler) with hoses, or just the rubber hoses between the metal pipes and the transmission/cooler? If you replace the whole thing, how do you support the hoses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 if you're worried about the lines then just leave them as is. personally i often replace them and just run new hose, one piece, all the way from the trans to the cooler. the metals lines can rust (or at least where i live they can!!), and it doubles the amount of connections and clamps - where leaks always happen. route them smart and nothing ever happens on a subaru. there's any number of ways to do it. route them smart and there's no need for securing them, but there's always brackets and zipties for that too. if you're worried about it though, just don't do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 And she runs! Now... for some reasons I'm starting to think the right "name"for this OBW is "rusty" I tried to put some gas to let it idle for a while and lo and behold the gas drips straight to the floor. The filler neck is rusted through Oh well... time for a break... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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