subie94 Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 (edited) it's a 86 with a little under 128k,4spd with D/R 4wd,light blue with one silver door.rockers need some attention but body is in good shape.interior needs some work too (ripped drivers seat,loose dash pieces (but all there),radio works and i found a nice surprise in glove box..owners manual in really good shape. oh btw,for some reason the clutch pedal is pretty low,i barely have to push it down before it catches/releases clutch and also hits the floor..i really hope it's not cause clutch is just about gone.. Edited August 6, 2011 by subie94 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 (edited) Pretty nice. I also have an 86. Try and adjust the clutch cable. the clutch fork is located under the hood on the top right half of the tranny(If you were sitting in the car). Its under the spare tire so if ya have one of those in there you might want to pull it out. there should be two cables connected to the clutch fork. the one running to the fire wall is the clutch cable. the one going the other way is the hill holder. it runs to a valve inline with the brake lines that applys the brakes when starting off on a hill making take off easier for inexperienced clutch operators. There should be a clip near the clutch fork that holds the hill holder cable in place, remove it and you should be able to pull the cable out of its bracket then unhook it from the fork its self. The clutch cable its self should have a threaded portion about 2'' long with two nuts on it, this is your range of adjustment,the little one on it is a lock nut,I think its a 10mm, the big one is the adjuster nut it should be 12mm if not then 14mm. break loose the lock nut, then tighten the larger nut while making sure to hold the cable in place to prevent it from rotating with the adjuster nut. there should be a spot to hold on to it with a small crescent wrench at the base of the cable covering. Give it a few turns then hop in the car to see how it feels. There should be about an inch of movement at the top of the petal before you feel resistance. It might take a few good turns but hopefully you'll get it. The clutch should have some life left with 128k unless it was driven hard. Hope this helps. good luck OOPS! 1000+ Posts so you may already know this Edited August 6, 2011 by 81EA81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrabrat Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Congrats on the BRAT. Had the same issue with my cluch when I got it ^^^ I adjusted the clutch as instructed and I haven't had a problem since. Let me know if you need an parts here and there... the guy who owned mine used to collect anything he could find (I even have 3 complete engines). Good luck and enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Congrat's!!! Owned a couple '86 BRAT's myself, (both rust buckets when I bought them). Stick with the '84 model year when buying parts for it. Less chance of getting EA82 parts by mistake. It happens... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 I got my Brat with an inoperable clutch, It would run but not go into gear. I gave the guy 500 bucks popped the hood, took the 5 minutes to adjust the cable all the way out and drove it home:grin:The guy was shocked:grin: I 2nd that on the '84 model year when ordering parts. Ea81 wagons went from '80-84, ea81 Brats to '87 EA82 wagons from '85-'92? See the overlap? When I finally had to replace the clutch I orderd it for an 86 and got the 24 spline friction disk for an EA82 vs the 21 spline for the EA81 Everything fit fine beside the throwout bearing and of course the friction disk. I bolted it all back together and I had no power to the wheels:mad:. I could of saved alot of time and frustration if I told them it was an 84. Or I could of just test fit the disk on the shaft before installing it. At least I learned something from it:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 ok cool,thanks for the heads up about ordering parts.i may also need a speedo cable (haven't checked connection at trans yet) mainly cause speedo bounces quite a bit at slow speeds (bounces less at about 40,i think if it's working then) and odometer and trip meter isn't working.. (so basically it has more then the 128K but haven't a clue how much..) (maybe if i test drove it,i would of noticed the speedo,trip and odometer issue..) I drove it home (about 40min drive) and besides throttle cable/linkage sticking a bit (will idle up to about 2k while stopped and clutch in) and manifold gasket leaking (manifold pipe at bend) is banged pretty bad (probably caused excess pressure to blow out gasket) it ran and drove very well considering.. here's some more pics..i Love the T tops..(safety latch on pass side needs to be fixed (pin's not lining up) but i great shape.one back slider has been replaced with plexi..gonna need replacement before winter.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 BTW-how do i get the EGR light to turn off..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrabrat Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Are there any other lights on? Mine had the EGR and the brake light showing brake light showing on the dash... Turned out to he a bad altanator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 (edited) EGR light comes on every 60,000 miles as a Service Reminder. There's a couple of single wire connectors near the fuse box that you swap around to reset the light. Found pic in this thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124963 The ones labled #3, #4, & #5 in the 2nd pic are the ones you want. Edited August 7, 2011 by TomRhere added pic link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Are there any other lights on? Mine had the EGR and the brake light showing brake light showing on the dash... Turned out to he a bad altanator. just egr light.looks like alt was changed not to long ago.. Tom,thanks for the link,i'll have to read up on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 well speedo cable seems to be seated fine at trans,i guess i'll have to replace it (unless it came loose behind gauge..) The needle will bounce from 20-40 mph when i'm roughly doing 30...bounces alot less when i'm up to about 40-45 and even less at 50 and above (though i'm not exactly sure how accurate it is..) would bad speedo cable cause odometer/trip meter not to work ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 (edited) i Think i gotta stop driving it right now and either replace wheel bearing or re-grease if possible.getting a little squeak going straight or turning left. i had to disconnect hill holder,it wouldn't let me move for a sec..also thinking that was cause the squeak from the brakes.. probably wasn't best idea to buy a 25 yr old soob in current condition as a daily driver..but then again,i do really enjoy driving it (and the looks and complements i get..) Edited August 10, 2011 by subie94 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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