1-3-2-4 Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Found the problem!! the bolt had threads the whole length of the bolt for the new TB tensioner so I swapped the sleeve from the old and the bolt and set to 29-ft lb and it works! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 Update time! Finally got my cams back from Delta (damn cross country ground shipping). I yanked the engine out of my sedan for the shortblock. Got it stripped down, cleaned, (cylinders all looked great for 190k miles) and have one head on. I'm waiting for a head to block alignment sleeve to come in on Thursday. One pulled out of the block with the head I pulled off, then I messed it all up trying to get it out of the head. I tried getting one out of the old wagon block with no luck(they're pretty well rusted in). So once that gets here I can put the other head on and hopefully put it all back in the wagon this weekend. I think I said that same phrase about three weeks ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Found the problem!! the bolt had threads the whole length of the bolt for the new TB tensioner so I swapped the sleeve from the old and the bolt and set to 29-ft lb and it works! Let me guess... ebay timing kit from Mizumo Auto? There was a thread mentioning this issue, and I confirmed with a micrometer, that the sleeve is a few tenths of a millimeter shorter than it should. I used the old bolt and sleeve, but I had to use fine sandpaper to enlarge the hole on the tensioner pulley a little bit... it would have been a light interference fit otherwise... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 Let me guess... ebay timing kit from Mizumo Auto?There was a thread mentioning this issue, and I confirmed with a micrometer, that the sleeve is a few tenths of a millimeter shorter than it should. I used the old bolt and sleeve, but I had to use fine sandpaper to enlarge the hole on the tensioner pulley a little bit... it would have been a light interference fit otherwise... nope got it here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=280597292428&view=all&tid=704598210018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 Interesting... I wonder if they use the same components... BTW: I'm not implying the Mizumo kits are not good, just that the problem with the tensioner bushing has not been addressed. It's not a biggie anyway, since the old bushing+bolt are usually in good condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 Well got it running today. But... Problem 1: It's misfiring. I can't tell which cylinder/cylinders as it is not a dead miss. It comes and goes, mostly under load, above about 1500 RPM. I'm leaning towards number 3 since that one seemed to make the least difference when I unplugged the injector. But number 4 seemed to be about the same. Problem 2: It seems to be putting an awful lot of steam out the tail pipe. I'm inclined to think it's just leftovers from what it was blowing out of the engine before. After bleeding the cooling system I don't see any bubbles in the radiator. But steam + misfire, not a good combination. I'll pull plugs tomorrow and see if they hold any clues. Right now i'm just and tired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 Plugs out, nothing obvious. Swapped wires just for the heck of it, no difference. Also swapped the knock sensor with the one off my other block and no difference. CEL is on, but has not flashing. It might just be because I was pulling fuel injector plugs though. I'll limp it up the road to advance auto later and see what I get out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 Codes for knock sensor and cylinder 2+3 Misfire. Pending codes for cylinder 2+3 misfire. Knock sensor codes may have been old. I also had it unplugged at one point to see if it made any difference in the misfire and it did not. It did retard the timing and the car barely made it around the block but it still misfired. I drove the car to work this morning and had no trouble out of it until it got warmed up. I'm going to try swapping the temp sensor later to see what that does, if anything. It has the sensor from my sedan in it right now, because I swapped the crossover pipe with the block. That car had been having some strange driveability issues when warm before the transmission went out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 7, 2011 Author Share Posted September 7, 2011 Swapped temp sensor, no difference. Pulled plugs again. This is after about 50 miles of driving. Number 2: Clean, looks perfectly normal. Numbers 1,3, and 4: The housings are covered in black soot. All have very minor discoloration of the ceramic. On 1 and 4 the ground electrodes are white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 8, 2011 Author Share Posted September 8, 2011 Still misfiring when warm. Swapped injectors, MAF, Ignitor, coil, new plugs gapped at .039, drove with the O2 sensor unplugged, nothing made even a slight difference. I think I've pretty well covered all of the bases for electronic possibilities, unless a failing crank or cam sensor can cause something like this. I'm going to run it by Subaru and see if any of the techs have any ideas about it. But I'm leaning more and more toward a mechanical issue now. Kinda wondering if the cams might be doing this? But if that's the case I can't imagine why it would only do it when warm. Hard to tell if there is still steam in the exhaust. It has been so wet here the past few days that every car is blowing steam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 injectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Kinda wondering if the cams might be doing this? But if that's the case I can't imagine why it would only do it when warm. Do you know if the misfiring happens only when the ECU goes closed loop? That could help to pinpoint the problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 So the best I can figure is that during the break in for the cams, while the lifters were clattering up a storm, the cams must have been doing some clattering of their own. Drivers cam was advanced by a tooth. :-p I spun the engine over 2 complete turns and checked the belt alignment three times before I put the engine in, then again right before I started it the first time, and it was spot on every time. Set the timing right fired up and took it for a drive. Much more better! Put about 60 miles on it and not a single hiccup sputter jump jerk or miss. It's ************ing fixed!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 It's ************ing fixed!!! are you sure, it is a subaru after all. they're supposed to be nothing but headaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 It's fixed enough to drive for now. That's all I really care about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now