Quack Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 I had the dreaded 'AT oil temp' light flashing non-stop, the front wheels are fighting each other, oh 1998 forester with 160 kms (100,000 miles). The wife has put about 160 km on since the light appeared. It is now at the dealer and they say that the Duty C solinoid is gone (which I first suspected after seaching the forum before brining it in!) and they say the clutch plates are worn and need replaced. My questions are: With 100 000 miles and only drinving 100 miles with warning light (to get home then the dealer) would the clutch plates be worn enough to be replaced? Does worn plates have an error code? I believe they told there were error codes for both. The cost with labour and parts is just under $1000, with most of it being the clutches, I don't want to replace them if it is not needed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 (edited) they don't know without looking what's going on. it would be very strange for both to fail at the same time...though a failing Duty C won't do favors to the clutch pack. but anyway, more than likely they're just going to replace it all to have a happy customer. if they only replace one and then you're needing pay $500 next year to replace the other many folks would be on a rampage, so it's easier to just do it all while you're in there. many of us even recommend or personally do that - replace it all while we're in there so it doesn't have to come apart again for the life of the vehicle. but it certainly isn't necessary if you do a proper inspection and testing. the grooves will probably need to be filed down back to smooth from the binding, doubt they'll get into that though. they get paid per job at dealers, not hours ,so doing a thorough job like that is unlikely. it would have been best for you to post here before taking it to the dealer, there's a very simple thing you could have done and we could have told you if it was the duty C or clutch plates very easily. we would have told you to insert a fuse into the FWD slot - this forces the trans to run in FWD. if it does run fine in FWD - then the Duty C is good and the clutches are the issue. if it won't go into FWD then the Duty C is bad and the clutches may be able to be retained. that's indeed the test they did, in addition to scanning the code. with a code flashing then it seems probable the Duty C is bad. sometimes just changing the fluid multiple times will eliminate the torque bind that you're experiencing, i and others have done it a bunch of times. but with a code flashing that probably wont' work. you can source the parts online at about a %20 reduction in price from online Subaru vendors and have another mechanic do the work. there's nothing that special about this job that any other mechanic can't do it. there's some very detailed threads on here that explain how to do it and a couple things to look for - you could skim that and provide details to a mechanic for good measure, like looking for the grooves. you could also post on here for someone that may have a good used rear housing that has everythign in it - clutch plates and Duty C solenoid and save money that way. i've done that before, sold the complete rear extension housings with clutches and Duty C to someone in your position. i don't have any right now though. Edited August 9, 2011 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 Replace the duty-c and clutch pack yourself for half that or less. It's not a bad job at all and there's a few write-up's with pictures that go over the process. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 So you guys are recommending both to be replaced? My ususal mechanic, a friend, is very good but has limited experience with subaru's. I put a cal into to him to se if he can do it, but he has not got back to me. The parts are about $450, the rest is labour! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 replacing both is best for you. there's no way, without actually looking at it ourselves....and even that's not 100% certain, to know. we don't have any diagnostic information or symptoms at all - we're really really good, but we don't do magic. by asking us for advice you're asking us for *more* information and advice than the mechanic gave you...and we didn't get to look at it, drive it, inspect it, read the actual codes, etc like he did. you're wanting more specific information but we have nothing to go on. at the very least we'd need to know for sure what code it gave, what the symptoms were, and if the FWD fuse worked. and even then our recommendation may look the same. like GD said - there's a ton of write ups here - if you want to possibly save money, and possibly get a better job done too - print those out and give those to your mechanic. he can do this in a few hours, it's not that bad and with those online guides/pictures it should be straight forward for him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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