subynut Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Has anyone been able to get the EA82 Cruise Control to work after doing an EJ swap? I've got power and ground, the VSS and Tach are hooked up, the brake switch is wired in. The light in the switch on the dash comes on, but when I hit the set, it does nothing. Are there any type of diags in the thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Mine functions (88 GL10 with a 91 EJ22) I connected diodes off of the two signal leads on the ignitor together and used that connection to replace the tach signal from the ecu in an attempt to get my digital tach to function. The tach still doesn't function but my cruise does since doing that. I'm not sure that made it happen but it has worked since doing that and I not going to argue with success. Hobart Kennnedy came up with doing the diode thing to get the tach to work on some Vanagon swaps so I thought I would try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 VSS is hooked up to teh EJ harness, but is it still properly connected to the EA Cruise? Also, which cruise do you have? is it dealler installed or the factory setup. Factory = electric vac pump Dealer = Big round canister for storing intake vacuum. These systems are finicky, and need a well sealed vac system and a good one way on the tank. But check the easy stuff first. There is a switch on the clutch pedal, and 2 on the brake pedal. The brake pedal switch closest to the gas pedal is for the light. Check proper brkae light operation. The other brake switch, and the one on the clutch are for the cruise. They are wired as a loop for the cruise computer. Depressing either pedal breaks the loop and cancels cruise. So check that both are "closed" when the pedals are up. Perhaps the Rubber stop that depresses the clutch pedal one is missing? Adjust the switch on the clutch and brake pedal so that they have continuity (closed) when the pedals are "up". Depressing either pedal breaks that loop and cancels cruise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Yeah, the vss goes to both the EJ ECU and the CCU, so does the Tach output from the ECU to the Tach and CCU. I have a one-way valve between the intake manifold and the monster vacuum canister, then it tees off to the control unit: intake manifold | one way valve | Canister --- control valve Hope that makes sense. A little history: This car originally had the 3AT with the dealer installed CC - it worked then. When we converted it to a manual tranny, the pedal box did not have the clutch switch. However, we never got the CC working since my brother does not believe in cruise. When my brother switched to the EJ22, he pulled it out to "reduce weight". When I got the car, I put it back, however, since it does not have a clutch switch, I wired it into the same line as the brake light switch. If it must have the clutch switch, I can add it, what signal is it looking for? You said it is a loop, from what I have traced, there is only one wire going from the clutch switch to the CCU. Does it switch + or Ground? I'm going to look at the FSM wiring diagram and see how the 3AT was wired into the CC. Maybe I can trace how it was wired then and transfer the idea from that to the clutch pedal. Thanks, Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 After much checking, tracing wires, making sure there is proper power to the connections, actuators and switches working correctly, I decided there is either something wrong with the unit or it just does not like the EJ ECU. So, I pulled the cruse control parts and wiring from a first gen legacy and put it in. After much reading and finding out just exactly what year I pulled it from since they changed it a few times, I was able to get it to work. I still have to get the clutch switch wired in so the RPMS don't take off when I push the clutch in. I also have to tuck the CCU and wires up under the dash so I can drive it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 When I got the car, I put it back, however, since it does not have a clutch switch, I wired it into the same line as the brake light switch. If it must have the clutch switch, I can add it, what signal is it looking for? You said it is a loop, from what I have traced, there is only one wire going from the clutch switch to the CCU. Does it switch + or Ground? Cruise Equiped cars have 2 switches on the brake pedal, and at least one on the clutch (the starter lockout on the clutch pedal is not connected tot eh cruise system. Here's the breakdown. Brake switch 1.... Normally open, closes when pedal depressed, to send 12v to the brake lights. on cruise models, 12v to the brake light also cancels the cruise. Brake switch 2.....Normally closed. Signal wire from Cruise unit goes out to this switch, through it....then out through the clutch switch, and returns to the Cruise unit. If the pedal is depressed, the circuit goes open....cancelling cruise. Clutch switch 1.... Again, normally closed. In the same loop as the signal wire from the cruise unit. Pedal depressed opens the circuit, cancelling cruise. Sounds like you've got a good hold on the whole deal.....but you need to get a cruise (normally closed) switch and add it to the loop of the second brake switch to cancel cruise with clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Yeah, that switch arrangement had my head spinning for a while. Didn't help the FSMs don't have a whole lot of explanation as to how the whole system operated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Mine functions (88 GL10 with a 91 EJ22) I connected diodes off of the two signal leads on the ignitor together and used that connection to replace the tach signal from the ecu in an attempt to get my digital tach to function. The tach still doesn't function but my cruise does since doing that. I'm not sure that made it happen but it has worked since doing that and I not going to argue with success. Hobart Kennnedy came up with doing the diode thing to get the tach to work on some Vanagon swaps so I thought I would try it. After much checking, tracing wires, making sure there is proper power to the connections, actuators and switches working correctly, I decided there is either something wrong with the unit or it just does not like the EJ ECU. So, I pulled the cruse control parts and wiring from a first gen legacy and put it in. After much reading and finding out just exactly what year I pulled it from since they changed it a few times, I was able to get it to work. I still have to get the clutch switch wired in so the RPMS don't take off when I push the clutch in. I also have to tuck the CCU and wires up under the dash so I can drive it again. The part that you missed with capn_r's response (read in between the lines) was that the EJ tach signal is different, and if you are using the dealer installed CC from a ea car, then the EJ tach signal will not work with just running a wire. Hence capn_r's response with the diodes. The ea cars use the tach signal from the negative side of the coil, but obviously this is different with the ej's because they don't have a coil, so the tach signal is totally different since the computer is coming up with the signal, not the motor. I don't know exactly what is wrong with the signal, but it is different enough that it will not work with the ea stuff by just plugging it in. This would also be the reason why the ej CC stuff works just fine now, since it was designed to use the ej tach signal. I bet ya if you would have installed a couple of diodes off the ignitor like capn_r mentioned, you could have gotten it to work with the ea stuff. All of this is now a moot point since you got it working with the ej cc, but I thought I would tell you why the ea cc didn't work for you. So I would sell that dealer installed cc for some extra cash since they are somewhat hard to find now days, since it probably works just fine HTH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subynut Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 Yes, I did try capn_r's diodes, but it made no difference. I talked to the previous owner and he said that it didn't work before he did the EJ22 swap - said it would suddenly just take off on it's own. So, maybe it is flakey. Strange the EA tach has no problem with the EJ signal, but the dealer installed CC does. Maybe the CC is looking for the spike of the coil firing whereas the EJ ECU is just sending a simple square wave. That may be the difference. Hmm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayback Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I got an EA82 dealer-installed cruise control to function with my EJ-swapped 1992 Loyale using the tach output from the ECU, no diodes required. I didn't have the EA82 accelerator pedal vacuum actuator, so I used an EJ actuator. The throttle response tuning was all wrong, it would constantly accelerate and decelerate, not usable. So I got a cruise computer and vacuum pump from a 1st gen Legacy, spent a few evenings figuring out the wiring, and now it works very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I got an EA82 dealer-installed cruise control to function with my EJ-swapped 1992 Loyale using the tach output from the ECU, no diodes required. I didn't have the EA82 accelerator pedal vacuum actuator, so I used an EJ actuator. The throttle response tuning was all wrong, it would constantly accelerate and decelerate, not usable. So I got a cruise computer and vacuum pump from a 1st gen Legacy, spent a few evenings figuring out the wiring, and now it works very well. Hey man! Sorry my cruise didn't work out! But I am glad you got it all worked out! The reason it was acting funny is because of the tach signal, I guarantee it. There is something about the signal that is not liked by the EA cruise computer. I really need to bust out my oscope and take a look at the ej signal and compare it to the ea... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Oh, please do. If I had a scope, I would have gone out to the garage and checked the two 5 minutes ago and included it in this post. Then we can decide how to manipulate the signal with diodes, capacitors, etc.. Otherwise this is a complete guessing game. My guess is that the EA cluster vss is putting out a 12v pulse to the CCU and the EJ ECU outputs a positive-high, 0v-low PWM signal at a much lower voltage and different duty cycle (much faster) than the EA vss. Diodes may have an effect of cutting the frequency in half to something near what the EA CCU can read, but doesn't really correlate to anything related to rpm or speed. It just happens to change frequency somehow with rpm. We need the o-scope data. It might be useful to see the EA vss and the EJ vss as well as the EJ tach signal from the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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