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Making my car two tone...good idea? Rubberize/Texture the 2nd Half?


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I have a 1993 Legacy Wagon, color blue. I found the touch up paint at a subaru place to do some of the paint work I had when my lower quarter panel encountered a rock on the roadway. Nevertheless, it took a good hunk of paint out of the lower door panel. :banghead: I attempted to touch this up with the paint, however it didn't look good at all, and I ended up painting over it with another color blue just to make the door area smooth and prevent it from rusting.

 

I am tempted now with the idea of making the car two tone. A lot of people have reccomended it to me since all of the damage is below the rubber stripping on the side of the car. I was thinking that black would be the easiest, however no idea how it would look on my car, especially with the color already being blue above it.

 

Anyone ever attempted something like this? Have pictures? :D

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They used to sell a sort of ruberized paint that goes in the lower secions of certain cars.

If I recall there were spray can versions and they would cover a lot of sins.

They were often a dark or gray color.

I have not done body work in a few years so I am not sure if it is still popular.

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Auto zone or the like have matching spray colors if you know your paint code and color name. I've painted lots of older cars with texurized rubber undercoat paint[ black ] from the door guards down,looks ok,but not as nice as original .

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you could photoshop it and have a look for yourself.

If you dont know how to photoshop it and do have a pic of your car, email it to me.

web@oxyprint.com.au

 

I will be able to do it pretty quick and get it back to ya.

 

Some cars look great two tone, others look cheap.

I like white over charcoal or silver.

Blue over black might be a bit hmmm.

Blue over charcoal looks good though.

 

Being a first gen, it should look pretty good, IMO anyway.

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Here is my take on this....There is a guy in W PA that was a soob shop...and everytime he has a car with some lower body issues he makes the car 2 tone. Every time I see a car (soob) that is 2 tone that shouldn't be it screams rust job to me.

 

just my $.02

Matt

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I tried the whole Autozone route for matching the paint code...it is different...a bit lighter than the original.

 

I like the idea of using texturized rubber paint, however who knows if it would come out correctly. I also will be taking a picture of the car tomorrow and play around with it in photoshop.

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that I used to go on a long Mexico trip. I fitted it with a new P1800S engine and an overdrive from a P1800S wired to a Ford two speed high low knob to give me eight forward gears.

I doubled up a lot of the electricals and fitted it with tractor headlights for front aux lamps and rubberized the lower sections.

I did that as part of the paint job and washed the car in Tide after doing the bodywork. Then I sprayed on the texture and after drying we painted the car in the stock white and then pin striped it in red.

I think I got more compliments on that car over the next several years than I do on my M Roadster.

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Around here, we have auto paint supply shops that can scan the color of the car now and mix up the paint in large spray cans. The scanner will "see" the actual color of your car as it exists today considering it likely that the original color has oxidized over time.

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on the lower body in winter. The estimate was $425, if I removed all valences and bumpers and masked the door jambs myself. $600 if I just drove it in. Oh, and they won't warranty body paintovers, just truck beds ... go figger.

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People that I have talked to, that have used bed sprays as an exterior paint, say that over time they get dirty and are hard to clean. I knew of one person who used a clear coat over a bed liner with good results. Hammerite might be a good choice. It is textured and has a hard finish.

 

I am bouncing around the idea of painting the lower half of my Legacy. It has quit a few rock dings but no rust to speak of.

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TriSodiumPhosphate. It's a proven cleaner-degreaser, and Tide's loaded with it, so you have a detergent and TSP all-in-one. Or you can just wash the car and take your skin off with the straight stuff!

 

And don't forget the tackrag just before spraying.

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answered well. Years ago I bought into a body shop to learn the tricks of the trade.

Washing with Tide and scotchbrite worked well to get wax off and prepare the paint.

It was sometimes very tough to get rid of WD40 but I know they have silicon remover now since so many waxes have that.

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Whatever you do if you paint it yourself, use some wet & dry sanding cloth, wet, to rough up the surface!

 

Ouch, didn't realize that rhino stuff was that much!

 

I painted hammerite over an old rusty trailer frame, didn't even clean it up, and it never chipped, peeled, or rusted thru.

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that rubberized stuff could be rough to get off.

When I did it to my Volvo it was on the lower quarter only and I knew it would take the rocks it would see in the Mexican desert better than paint alone.

Sure enough it was very resitant to chipping and I had the car about five more years and it looked fine.

I would hate to try to remove it though.

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I personally think two tone looks good on legacys..

On my legacy, I considered rhinolining the bottom to prevent things like rocks or road garbage from taking out paint and chunks on the bottom.. go for it and do it two tone... darker colors would look better on your car I think...

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  • 4 months later...
I have a 1993 Legacy Wagon, color blue. I found the touch up paint at a subaru place to do some of the paint work I had when my lower quarter panel encountered a rock on the roadway. Nevertheless, it took a good hunk of paint out of the lower door panel. :banghead: I attempted to touch this up with the paint, however it didn't look good at all, and I ended up painting over it with another color blue just to make the door area smooth and prevent it from rusting.

 

I am tempted now with the idea of making the car two tone. A lot of people have reccomended it to me since all of the damage is below the rubber stripping on the side of the car. I was thinking that black would be the easiest, however no idea how it would look on my car, especially with the color already being blue above it.

 

Anyone ever attempted something like this? Have pictures? :D

if you take a picture of your car i can photoshop it to give you a good idea. e-mail me if you have a pic

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When I had my BRAT done I had the body shop do bedliner work on the power half. The trim belt was bedlined in black, and the body below the trimline was done in clear bedliner tinted to match the Subaru Sonic Blue that the truck was done in. They used the Speedliner brand liner and it has been very resistant to off road damage, road salts etc. Bedliner has a reputation for being hard to clean because of the rough texture for grip. You can have them apply the liner in a much smoother texture that does not hold dirt. Mine wipes clean with little effort. From more than a few feet away you cannot tell that it is bedliner.

 

Here is a pic from the day it got home from the paint shop. The white stuff is just wet dust.

 

mar191.jpg

 

And just a general one of the result from a distance.

 

dirtpile13.jpg

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