83pickle Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 when I first picked up my 83 GL 2 weeks ago, the first 5 days of driving was fine (although you had to grind the pedal to the floor to shift smoothly). I then took it to get the differentials serviced (Mine is a DR 4WD 4 speed) and from there, shifting got worse over the past 10 days till finally I had to shove it into first gear, grind into 2nd and 3rd then a pop into 4th. So before I stormed off Jiffy Lube, I checked the adjustment on the clutch cable and tighten it up. World of difference! That same day I adjusted the clutch, I was heading up to a lake to ride wave runners with a buddy. Along the way the clutch seemed to revert back to it's original state. There were alot of curves and hills. The next day, I checked the adjustment and it was in the same spot, so I tighten it more and bam! smooth shifting again. So my question is the clutch cable stretching out some how? Does the hill stopper have anything to do with this? Or could I way off base to the real problem here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobies Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 it sounds like cable is stretching or the clutch is on way out, few other things could make it do that, riding the clutch... not adjusted properly, throw out bearings, etc etc hill stopper/hill holder has nothing to do with clutch. it just holds the brakes when you stop on a hill with clutch in and brake on then let go the brake while clutch is in (holds the car on the hill) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 Time for a new cable - it will break soon if you don't. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted August 23, 2011 Author Share Posted August 23, 2011 GD - That was my fear adjusting it so much. Tell me if I am wrong, but I was told long ago that if you can make your tires chirp from a dead stop, your clutch is still good. I can chirp the tires pretty well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 The real test of a clutch is to find a good steep hill and do about 25 mph up it - then shift to 4th gear. You should not be able to keep the RPM's up with the clutch pedal released. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted August 23, 2011 Author Share Posted August 23, 2011 ha! I have actually done that the first time out. I haven't had experiance with a 4spd and it seemed good to go into fourth gear, but rumbled so bad with the pedal to the floor. I reserved the last clutch cable at my local parts store I am 'bout to go pick up. Thanks for the input all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Make sure you route the clutch cable UNDER the heater hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 I hate to admit it but when I replaced my clutch I couldn't adjust it all the way. I found out the petal box was bent, allowing the bracket to sit closer to the clutch fork. I just took the conical adjuster nut from an old clutch cable, drilled out the threads and slid it on over the adjuster threads. then I used the original adjuster nut from there. It seems to work with no slipping Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 Well I got shut down by my apartment complex for working on my subie in the parking space So it's at a buddy's shop getting worked on. I'll trade him something for the work. Website or something he might need. I'm having do the belts at the same time. I assume my trouble is just the cable. The clutch would slip if it was worn out, and my gears grind in every gear, HARD, so it has to be the cable stretching right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Sounds like a new cable and you'll be all set. I had similar issues and was the same problem...clutch cable was stretched out. I have a new one from subaru sitting in a box waiting for me to install it. Guess its going to be sooner rather than later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 Well, it's the clutch. So question is there anyone in the Vancouver / Portland area that has a place to help change it or pay to change it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 26, 2011 Share Posted August 26, 2011 Yeah - I can do an EA81 clutch in my sleep. Get a clutch kit and bring it on down to my place in West Linn (Portland Suburb). Probably be about $200 labor if you want me to do it for you, or $100 to have me "help" you do it yourself and use my shop/tools/etc. Give me a call at 5o3-88o-4o84. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 Thanks for the offer GD! I tried driving it home from my buddies shop and I can't get it into any gear without slamming it. I don't want to ruin my transmission. I don't know anyone with a trailer either or who would roll down I-5 towing me. lol. Clutch Doctors quoted my $416 and they guarantee the clutch kit for life and 20,000 mi labor warranty. So I will bite the bullet there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 I would not let clutch doctors touch an EA81..... they are..... "special". Subaru's of that vintage are not like any other cars on the road. I have seen the kind of work those idiots do and they have probably never seen an EA81 before. And I cringe at the thought of what parts they would use . Your call though. I understand your concern with getting it into gear, etc. I could arrange to tow it here but that would likely be another $75 or so. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 GD - Well I would love to save some cash. Let me give you a call tomorrow around 1130 or noon. My soob is up in Salmon Creek, thats about 29mi to your place. You would arrange a normal tow truck or trailer? I would love to have the oportunity to know this subaru inside and out. So let's hash some details tomorrow. Where would you recommend to get a clutch kit. People tell me to avoid Cost Less Auto parts here in the 'Couve, but I honestly never had problems with any of their parts when I had my 4Runner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 GD - you are the master. Thanks for the cable help - to all who has followed along, it was the cable for one and two, the cable was routed over instead of under. Drove it home with no issues. Mark is sucker fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Cable broke at the pedal. I can't see up there in the dark, so I don't know for sure if it's the crappy cable I got or something in the pedal itself. I know what it's like to drive without an operable clutch now... AWESOME! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 well anxiety kept me up so I worked as long as my cell phone camera light would shine. A bit of "how it happened". When I pushed the pedal it "clunked" and went to the floor and stayed there. Nothing brought it back up. I took an image from Subinewby's post (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1030659&postcount=10) to describe what I think my issue is. That disc thingy (marked by my "look here" icon) was all cockeyed and would move while the pedal got depressed. I gained understanding of how it all holds together as I was disassembling the pedal and all to work at it on the floor, but what I don't know is what actually broke. Does my description indicate anything other than the cable being of poor quality? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 (edited) Yep - poor quality aftermarket cable. I didn't like how it felt even after we corrected the routing and that's why I told you to get a cable from the dealer soon..... I don't know how they get away with selling these - they are so bad it's almost a scam. Get yourself an OEM cable from the dealer and all will right - just remember to route it under the steering column and the heater core hoses. Here's my article on clutch cables from a few years back: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html GD Edited September 12, 2011 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Yeah, I am first in line at the dealership. I have been so busy or I would have got one sooner and attempt the put it in. Now that I have taken it all out, it seems straight forward to get a new on in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Here is the pedal at the top were the cable attaches. I should find myself a new pedal, correct? That seems like lots of wear, almost like a drill tried to move the hole closer. And yes, Spongebob fruit snacks are tasty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjimd Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I hope this aint a hijack, but. I just swapped a 5mt in place of a 3at in the daughters car 93 Loyale FWD so don't have a referance. Mr. Pickle (sorry couldn't resist) mentioned having to push the pedal all the way to the floor to disengage. We put all new clutch components in but reused a good used factory cable. I did the install of the cable just as GD recomended in his post but you have to push the clutch to the floor. Is that sop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Here is the pedal at the top were the cable attaches. I should find myself a new pedal, correct? That seems like lots of wear, almost like a drill tried to move the hole closer. And yes, Spongebob fruit snacks are tasty. Looks serviceable still. Get a new pin and spring clip from the dealer when you get the cable. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I hope this aint a hijack, but. I just swapped a 5mt in place of a 3at in the daughters car 93 Loyale FWD so don't have a referance. Mr. Pickle (sorry couldn't resist) mentioned having to push the pedal all the way to the floor to disengage. We put all new clutch components in but reused a good used factory cable. I did the install of the cable just as GD recomended in his post but you have to push the clutch to the floor. Is that sop? The clutch release point depends on how tight you make the cable. New clutches will release close to the floor and will release higher as they wear. If you want it to release a bit higher than it does then tighten the cable on the fork end. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
83pickle Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Mr. Pickle (sorry couldn't resist) Ha! That's good. My 4 year old daughter coined the name pickles for the subie. She loves pickles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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