teasdam Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 I'm in the process of replacing a halfshaft on my 1990 loyale with 180k miles on it. The tie rod end ball joint looks ok, but the one where the axle housing sits on the lower control arm is torn wide open. So I was thinking just replacing the torn one. My question is this...are ball joints considered "bad" only when the rubber actually tears open? I had the thought that at 180k miles, it would be wise to change all the ball joints that I have access to while I'm in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88xt6joe Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 I just changed out both my axles on my 88 GL wagon and I put one new ball joint in because when I took the axle out if just fell apart. So just check and see if they are tight and if there are I would leave them in there if there loose change them out. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 Teas: If it were my car, I would do both sides. Ball joints DO wear, even if the boot survives. Unless you have reason to believe the one "good" ball joint has been replaced recently, you may as well assume it has gone the full 185k on the car. Probably not much life left on that one either. In general, I think it's best to do preventive maintenance on a "keeper" car, any time you have labor invested on a job where an opportunity to upgrade exists. In your case, you are looking at at a 20-30 part with virtually no additional labor. A no brainer in my book... good luck, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted March 13, 2004 Share Posted March 13, 2004 It's one of those, "might-as-well" things. You're there changing the axle, have a possible bad ball-joint, so might as well do it now. Would also check the tie-rod ends while you're at it. Cost of new parts isn't very much, and the piece of mind is priceless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teasdam Posted March 15, 2004 Author Share Posted March 15, 2004 ok, so now how in the world do I get the ball joint out?! I'm trying to remove the one that's in the lower control arm (which the axle housing sits on). I completely removed the control arm, axle housing, and the bar that runs diagonally back (is that a torsion bar?). After some serious hammering and cussing I got the housing to come off the ball joint stud. Now I need to get the ball joint out of the control arm. I have one of those forked wedge ball joint separator tools, but that doesn't seem to be good for anything. I'm thnking this ball joint is just incredibly corroded into place. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 The fork style should do the job - that's how I've removed the half a dozen that I've had the pleasure of doing. Pound the fork onto it with a hammer, and it will pop out. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teasdam Posted March 15, 2004 Author Share Posted March 15, 2004 DOH! The fingers are quicker than the mind! On second thought, I meant to say that the ball joint is still in the axle housing. It was the control arm that I hammered off. In any case, same question... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 lubejob, beat on the threads with the nut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thealleyboy Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 If it's in the axle housing (steering knuckle), you can probably wedge a prybar where the fastener that holds the balljoint in place is located, to bust loose the corrosion. It will come out. Use lots of penetrating oil, a large crescent wrench, or a hammer as needed. good luck, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 OOOHHH! That's different. Put the joint back into the control arm and thread the nut on to hold it. REMOVE the clamp bolt from the knuckle - don't just loosen it. Then use a prybar to get the knuckle off. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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