subie94 Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 is there a special tool or regular wrench for a O2 sensor..? i need to change the second one (gotta find location of it too) for Inspection. hope same thing that happened on the jeep doesn't happen to the Outback..(threaded bung torn off the cat) not sure if needed but 97 Legacy Outback 5 spd,2.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 I think a box end wrench works best on these. Some cars you can't get a wrench on the sensor because of clearance. These there is enough room to swing a wrench, and you can whack the end with a big hammer to get it cracked loose. A wrench always works better than those stupid sensor sockets you can buy at the parts store. A little tip, getting the pipes hot will make it easier to remove the sensor. Wear protective clothing (long sleeves, gloves) so you don't get burned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Nothing wrong with having the right tool. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_3-8-OXY-Sensor-Socket-Autocraft_10051072-P_N3411V_T|GRP2062_____ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 I recently changed my 02 sensor on my 99 OBW, which would be the same set up as yours. A standard 02 sensor socket with a cut out for the wire won't work. There is no room to attach the 3/8" drive handle to the end of the socket. So, I bought an 02 sensor socket from O'Reiley's Auto Parts store. It is made with an offset for attaching the drive handle. It worked great. It helped to put a length of pipe over the drive handle to get extra leverage to loosen the sensor. With heat and time, the sensor can be difficult to loosen up. A regular open end wrench can be used to tighten up the new sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 I just used a 7/8" open wrench. Worked fine when I did my O2 sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 i use a 7/8 inch box end wrench to prevent ''rounding off'' the hex. but i undo the wire connector first and thread it thru the box end . works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted September 2, 2011 Author Share Posted September 2, 2011 cool,thanks for all the replys and suggestions.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 might want to comment on why it's "needed for inspection". a new sensor might not even fix it if it's that P0420 code and check engine light that's holding you up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share Posted September 3, 2011 might want to comment on why it's "needed for inspection". a new sensor might not even fix it if it's that P0420 code and check engine light that's holding you up. well seeing that the check engine light is on,not sure if it's P0420 but the Dealership and advance both said the lower O2 sensor (down stream) is what is causing the CEL.. i haven't brought for inspection yet cause i gotta patch rocker today and i figured a CEL would be a automatic failure.. (Still gotta figure out where on exhaust it is..i haven't had to replace one on a Subaru yet..and i have owned about 10 so far) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 (edited) well while attempting to remove O2 sensor with O2 socket (should of used 7/8th boxed end wrench like some here and my Mech friend recommended) the O2 sensor and the threaded bung got torn right off the cat.. well new cat and O2 sensor in and had the code cleared.fought with the two front bolts but a cut off wheel did the job (started rounding the heads and couldn't get in with extractor socket due to heat shield on the forward section of pipe..) Advance auto wanted like $400 for new cat which they had in stock but autozone was cheaper but didn't have in stock..thankfully advance called autozone up and matched their price of $246. cause $400 would of emptied checking acct.. Oh,while i was under it,i found out i'll also need trans mounts..rubber is worn and i could physically move the trans..no wonder the shifter moves around like it does.. Edited September 5, 2011 by subie94 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 . . . no wonder the shifter moves around like it does.. Thats probably due to worn bushings in the shifter linkage. PITA job but well worth the effort to replace! Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 (edited) Thats probably due to worn bushings in the shifter linkage. PITA job but well worth the effort to replace! Good luck. oh it doesn't have the "sloppy shifter syndrom" just if while in certain gears and i let off the gas,shifter moves back an forth (not like it's trying to come out of gear) trans must be moving up and down a bit causing shifter to move.. bottom trans mount seems easy enough to replace..but i have said that before and had issues.. btw,are the spring bolts supposed to go a certain way (spring on a certain side of the flange) ? couldn't seem to get that connection tight enough and leaks a tiny bit..unless they need replacing.. Edited September 6, 2011 by subie94 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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