thatswhatshesaid Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 I do a lot of driving in the winter. Road trips, skiing trips, driving to work after a 2 foot overnight dump, etc... My Subes have done well over the last few years, BUT...I want to put together a really great, reliable, capable winter rig. What parts/modifications would you include in the ultimate Subaru for long winter trips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatswhatshesaid Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 Here's my vehicle, and the proposed modifications/changes I want to make: '94 Touring wagon. 140k miles. runs like a champ. Mods in the works: - I have Forester struts/springs that will go on it soon - I have a CB for it - Nokian Hakkapeliitta 5 winter tires (27" diameter) mounted on 16s Planned additions: - Skidplate - cut front bumper with tube brush guard - roof rack - driving lights on the roof (I'm too afraid of deer/moose to put them on the bumper - top mount intercooler - big aluminum radiator - chipped ECU (for increased fuel economy and power) - free-flowing intake/exhaust - 5 speed swap (eventually) What else am I missing? Any other ideas or suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) The strut conversion is a great idea. I did the same with winter car for last year it was great for what I used it for ( I can tell you it did not involve doughnuts in a parking lot and drive through snow banks as tall as my car's hood ) This years car I went with a kind of different approach. The skid plate is a great idea too. I used one off from an 80's ea car. With some minor fab work it fitted very nicely. You need fog lights for sure and some mud flaps. I've added a lot of the bits you are talking about, just with the less rare non turbos Here are the pics of my set ups (this years car started as an auto now five speed) And last years with the ob suspension conversion (yes those are purple wheels) I have yet to try the new one in the snow as I'm waiting for it to come.... Last years I had I-pike studded snows and they were great. That car would go anywhere. We drove it on a fourth class road with about a foot of snow on it and made it all the way through. These early legos are so good for the winter. I can't wait to see what you do with this one! I also oil undercoat my cars for the winter, and just in general, VT winters are about the toughest you will find for a car, where you are you won't have to worry about it...you have no idea how lucky you are. Edited September 9, 2011 by 1982gl4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 hakka4 nice winestone tw, i had the exact car sold it when it had about 180k my former Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatswhatshesaid Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 Thanks, guys! 82gl4 - you are doing the same thing I want! Sweet. I hadn't thought of the mudflaps. thanks for the advice. What size tires have you stuffed under that vehicle as it currently sits? I'm really glad we don't have the salty roads here. where I'm at, there's always several feet of snow per year, but little to no danger of rust. it's way less humid here in the West. Lucky us! bheinen - love the TW. how could you sell that?! We'll see how my Hakka 5s fare on this rig. 4 different rubber compounds, mineral oil, siped, and square studs, baby! What else, boys and girls? Where's that guy from Alaska with those enormous blue driving lights on his Lego? I want info on that rig... forgot his username... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 I currently have two hella 500s on the front, with two more to come. So I can see where I'm going on a dark night. The car is great because it's so light, it's easy to get out if I get it stuck. I've used a come-along on the front and one on the rear to drag it sideways out of a ditch. It can make it up my ungodly steep driveway with 2+ feet of really heavy sticky snow with no issue at all. Living in Maine, I haven't come across any wintery road that it couldn't traverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 high quality studded snow tires all the way around a lift. not soon after 12" of untouched/unplowed snow is enough to high center a subaru and get you stuck....but that doesn't matter on roads that are plowed and maintained. a come along or winch (with plenty of chain/tow straps - you never know how far the closest tree will be) to pull you out if you get stuck are a must, i've used mine multiple times. with those three you're about as prepared as you can be for snow travel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Right now I have 205-55-16's on my white one (that has wrx suspension) I used the same wheel and tire combo last year on the black one with the ob suspension, but it had room to spare. I just had the tires/wheels so I used them. I later switched to the 15's which were taller and that was about as big as I could fit without cutting. I think they were 205-70-15's but I'm not 100% sure, as I have sold the car now and can't go and look from what I can read on my blurry pictures I took of them that's what it looks like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamCF Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 A good shovel. Some gear and supplies just in case the worst kind of stuck were to happen and you had to spend the night in it somewhere remote before you could get it dug out. Jerry can in case you end up having to run the Soob now and then to keep warm. Might need extra gas to get back out. Most trips I go ready to stay the night even if it's only a quick afternoon run. But in the winter I feel the gear is a must. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatswhatshesaid Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 Supplies in the back - good call. I try to always come prepared. Part of the motivation for this thread/build is my recent fascination with the idea of a winter road trip to Alaska. I'm going to try to do it in January '12. Also, I have huge concerns with cooling. That seems to be a big issue among cars plowing through lots of deep snow (a strange paradox, eh?) and sustaining long winter drives. Any suggestions for keeping my turbo motor as cool as possible? Thanks for all the ideas/preparedness tips, everyone. Keep 'em coming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 Supplies in the back - good call. I try to always come prepared. Part of the motivation for this thread/build is my recent fascination with the idea of a winter road trip to Alaska. I'm going to try to do it in January '12. Also, I have huge concerns with cooling. That seems to be a big issue among cars plowing through lots of deep snow (a strange paradox, eh?) and sustaining long winter drives. Any suggestions for keeping my turbo motor as cool as possible? Thanks for all the ideas/preparedness tips, everyone. Keep 'em coming! The biggest thing with cooling I've run into is after running through a lot of heavy snow getting snow jammed into the radiator. If you see the temp start to rise, clear it out. Or if you know you've slammed a snow bank, etc. Go clear the snow out of there before it's an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezapar Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 Two years ago, at the HP's Xmas tree run, I brought my lowered 2001 imp wagon on Hakki 4s. A group of 3 lifted ea81s followed me up the hill. I had to continually stop and wait for them. When the ruts got deep, I went up on them and stayed going. I didn't finally fall thru the snow and high center untill about 100 yards from the spot where two massive unimogs were pulling out the lifted jeeps. Two of the ea81s turned back. The one that pulled me out had to be dug out 3 times as well before it could. Years before, I had my buddy drive my impreza to the Xmas tree run and I drove my lifted hatchback. Half way thru the day, we swapped cars. At the end of the day, we both agreed the imp was a way more capable ride than the lifted hatch, with its lsd and everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 (edited) What kind of snow are you usually driving through? Heavy and wet? deep? What exactly are you trying to accomplish with your modifications? Some 205/65r15 Blizzak Revo1s slapped on my otherwise-stock Celica made it pretty unstoppable last year. I kept to the roads, but I went looking for un-plowed ones, and TRIED to get it stuck....with no luck. This was after a storm just before christmas last year. I was wondering around town, having a blast, and I dropped into the domino's pizza where I used to work (I now work at a different store in the same franchise) and their drivers were all whining about the road conditions. So I was the sole delivery driver there for the rest of the night. The hardest part of getting up and down the hill here, was finding a road that didn't have some stupid SUV stuck sideways in it. My point is, of your list of proposed modifications, only the tires will actually help you towards a "reliable, capable winter rig". Edited September 10, 2011 by Numbchux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
True2Blue Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 i liked the legacy with the d/r in it for snow! i never got stuck and i did some pretty deep snow wheeling.. as well as just goin on adventures they led to snowy road commuting.. hers some pics of places i have gone. Crysal Mt. Evans creek area Enumclaw by mud mountain Greenwater that was a 4" sjr lift kit with outback struts and 30" BFG km's (siped) with ea d/r trans (better gas mileage with a d/r imo ive had two to compare) it did awesome! i did get some DEEP snow wheelin action i just never got out to take pics.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatswhatshesaid Posted September 10, 2011 Author Share Posted September 10, 2011 I know that tires are the #1 most important modification. I have Nokian Hakkapeliitta 5s (27" diameter on 16s). So...I get the point. Thanks for the advice, though. I absolutely agree. Tires dictate the capability of a rig in snow/ice. I love my Hakkas. I do drive in deep snow - dry and wet. Ground clearance and recovery are important, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 at least with a Nokian snow you can run the tire 5 years or so tii the tread is gone. On a blizzak, the tread is hard after 1,5 year and worse than an all season. That is why everyone sees blizzak for sale after so few of miles and years. They get junky after like 5k miles. Nokian, is good till the tread is gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
True2Blue Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 BFG's A/T had awesome reviews.. just my 2 cents:grin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 I know that tires are the #1 most important modification.I have Nokian Hakkapeliitta 5s (27" diameter on 16s). So...I get the point. My point is, of your list of proposed modifications, only the tires will actually help you towards a "reliable, capable winter rig". recovery? Strap or 2, GOOD Come-a-long, Hi-lift, Shovel or 2. These things live in my car all winter. at least with a Nokian snow you can run the tire 5 years or so tii the tread is gone. On a blizzak, the tread is hard after 1,5 year and worse than an all season. That is why everyone sees blizzak for sale after so few of miles and years. They get junky after like 5k miles. Nokian, is good till the tread is gone. those revo1s on my celica. last year was the 5th season I've owned them (they're on subaru steelies), first was not on a daily driver, but easily 40-50k miles on them and they look brand-new. The key is not to use them unless the ground is frozen, once the pavement is over ~40* they wear out quick. I run 3 different sets of wheels/tires throughout the year. Kumho Ecsta AST Performance summer tires, BFG Traction T/As for the Months where it might snow, but probably not too bad, and Blizzaks as long as the ground is frozen. It's true though, Hakkas are the only DOT snow tire with the same soft tread compound through the whole tread depth. Blizzaks are usually about half/half. But my next set will be Blizzaks, and I'll take the 25% savings to the bank. BFG's A/T had awesome reviews.. just my 2 cents:grin: "Jack of all trades, master of none". The BFGs are better than most, but no A/T will ever hold a candle to a true snow tire. Tread compound is completely different, and the soft compound is what make snow tires work. From Tirerack BFG A/T http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=All-Terrain+T%2FA+KO Blizzak WS70 (Nokian isn't sold anywhere....so no tirerack reviews. And the revo1s were discontinued in favor of the WS70) http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Blizzak+WS70 We took WS70s and Yokohama AO34s to SnoDrift rally last year, and probably will again this year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatswhatshesaid Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Recovery stuff - good plan. I'm working on putting together all the goodies... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatswhatshesaid Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 I'm kinda torn... I could really make any of my wagons into the ultimate snowbeast (I mean, they kinda all are already)... I'm still leaning toward the TW, though. On another note, I'm thinking of building a snorkel for it. Any other materials besides ABS I should look at? I think a rectangular-ish tube would be cool (like a Safari Snorkel), rather than just round black tube... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyclimbs Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 I don't think there is better rig it's more about experience in diverse conditions. I have a lifted outback and a lifted hatch....both have their pros and cons.. Being prepared and common sense with get you farther than anything else.. I suggest a skidplate you never know if rock or stump is lurking beneath.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smackvt Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 i used a auto shift knob hoged out with 2 rear window switches like this [/img] and some baled 205 55 r16 cooper zeon sports with 200 1/4 in bolts and wachers ext like this[/img] and whit some lights and one of these [/img] it seams to get the job done:rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 You must have those tubed, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smackvt Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 no def not i hate tubes ..... green slime and 50 psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 no def not i hate tubes ..... green slime and 50 psi Those go through the tire and green slime held? that's effing awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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