Hooray, both ball joints removed successfully!

[uniberp]

Only snapped the 2 ABS sensor mounting bolts. Drilled one out, coaxed from hole with chisel and punch, have to drill the other. Because I'm replacing the rotted brake shield plates while I'm at it.

 

To avoid snapping the pinch bolt, I try first to break it loose with a short breaker bar (12"). If that doesn't work, I drill a .125 hole straight down the axis from the thread end about .75 inch. This seems to reduce the pressure or something, gives the twist torque somewhere to expand. I drilled the left, the right broke loose no problem.

 

To lever the socket our of the knuckle, a long spud bar for leverage and it's free. A pickle fork finished the job on the stud end. Awesome. Found new pinch btolts at Ace Hardware, called "class 8.8" which equates to Grade 5. I think that is better in case these ever freeze up and need to be drilled out.

 

Subarus have made me think much more long term than I have previously.

 

Just got to get that abs stub out of there and I'm golden. And I have my technique down now. And I'm replacing yet ANOTHER inner right boot (Actually the whole shaft now that I see the outer boot is cracking).

 

My advice, at least for salted areas, any time you have it up on jacks, remove and antiseize every bolt you can reach.

 

mpergielwalkermi99forester97legato08forester

Edited September 28, 2011 by uniberp

[jarl]

I'll probably need to follow your steps at some point. One (or both... have not checked) ball joint boots is busted. Just in case, I'll start soaking with penetrant oil from now...

 

Just one comment: if you need to replace the inner booth, you can replace both boots on the same axle at the same time. I replaced both inner boots with the axles in the car and it was kind of messy, but very doable. Once you remove the trunnion from the axle, though, you can easily replace both inner and outer boots.

[idosubaru]

i've snapped the ABS bolts before and just drilled a smaller hole right into the remaining bolt and used a tap for a tiny bolt. nothing structural about it and - it's going to rust right into place again anyway!

 

the heat from drilling may act similarly to a torch. heat expands the bolt and can break some of the corrosion seized surfaces free. probably best to drill, let cool down, then remove.

[uniberp]

I got the other stub out. Drilled through and tapped at it with a point punch and hammer until it loosened and moved. I'm replacing these with stainless since they are not load bearing. Can't wait to button this up.

 

Since the balljoint is out, it's a simple matter to replace the axle, but I've replaced this one before. These particular aftermarket boots are obviously not as good as oem. I don't know how to tell good ones from cheap, but I've got axle exchange down to a 30 minute job.

[brus brother]

I've only used Subaru rebuild kits to repair broken boots on my original axles but perhaps someone here can recommend the preferred axle replacements so we don't see Uniberp here later asking about the various unwanted effects related to some aftermarket axles.