TheLoyale Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 That just looks great! You could be a cabinet maker How are you able to do so many things? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 (edited) Thank you all for your Kind Words, which are highly appreciated. I Build Custom Wooden Speakers' Enclosures and I do the electronics & wirings too... See this thread for further details:☺ ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138429-inventions-creations-lets-share-our-ideas/ You only need to have enough free time and patience...Kind Regards. ► Edited to update the web link due to the new USMB's system. Edited January 22, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 (edited) Now my BumbleBeast has Twin Electric Fans, I Erased the Mechanical pulley-driven Fan That modification gives some Advantages Such like some Hp Gain + slightly faster engine response and less noisy engine, also makes way easier to service certain parts of the engine's Front, Such as Timing Belts ... Specially if they're Coverless like I run them.As usual, I Did a Writeup which is plenty of easy understanding explanations of the Procedures and has Clear Photos to guide you Step by Step, if you want to do the Same to your Subie, but the Procedure may also apply to other vehicles. The Writeup's Link is: ~► Here. It Includes advantages like where to Find a Slightly Lower Temp Thermoswitch, the Measurements so you will know the Fan's Size that could Fit, other car's Brands parts that works, etc... By the Way, I Run my Carburated "BumbleBeast" Subaru and my Wife's EFI "KiaStein" without Thermostat for Four reasons that might only work at the Caribbean area and similar climate zones of the World: First: Here Never Snows. Second: Climate temperature here doesn't go Too Low, nor Too High; is almost always between 14 ºC ~ 36 ºC (57 ºF ~ 96 ºF) Usually. Third: Here is not required to have Catalytic Converters, which needs higher engine Temps to work properly. Four: The Car's Engine only takes a couple of Minutes more to reach its Normal Operatin' Temps, and beside that, they work normally. Since both cars has electric fans, once it gets to Normal Operating temps, the Electric Fans takes control to don't let 'em overheat, and they Never go Lower (cooler) than 1/4 mark, except when I run A/C ... ... Also the heater is Never needed at the Caribbean, so I prefer to not use a Thermostat and thus helps to prevent from air bubbles and stuck thermostat problems, also helps to elongate the Waterpump's lifespan. Kind Regards. Edited January 22, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Lookin good Jeszek! Ive thought of the twin fan idea in NED, Im just not sure I wanna do the wiring haha.. I do like Stubies_Subie's Loyale though... reads like 1/3 up the gauge MAX (hes got the dual fans) Ive always worried that it could get TOO COOL, like the engine cant reach its operating temperature correctly? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 (edited) Since the Twin Fans' Setup and the Lower Temp ThermoSwitch, my BumbleBeast Works at ~Almost~ the Middle Mark on the Temperature Gauge during city drivin' and goes a li'l bit lower on open highways.Believe me: It was working Cooler with the old Permanent Mechanical Fan, but that mechanical fan caused the Temperature to drop to almost Zero during the very Long Downhills on our Roads... that doesn't happen anymore with the Electric Fans. The Lower Temp Thermoswitch I Used is only 10 Celcius degrees (10º C = 50º F) Lower, but the temperature needle usually stays just a milimeter Below the Middle mark.The Wiring is pretty Easy, as I explained it all with Pictures in the Writeup.Kind Regards. Edited January 21, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendecker Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Nice work on the video and the Beast. Good times! I still haven't gotten around to the dual fan conversion, but it's on my list. -Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) Thank you for your Kind words!My Beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" this Month of June, 2012 reached twentyseven (yes, 27) Wonderful Years with us, in my Family; and beyond 300,000 Miles of Good Memories and Growing together. This thread is somehow an Index with Web Links of all the Modifications and Improvements I've Done during all these years, to my Beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast"Why an Index? ... Because each Modification or Improvement has its own Writeup to Cover all the related information, with tons of Pictures and explaining the procedures for each work done; so you can do a Click on the Link from this Index to see the Whole Document.I Hope my Writeups could be Helpful for others.Kind Regards. Edited January 21, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) Now my "BumbleBeast" Features an Excellent Rear Parking Brake (e-Brake) System. The Parts are Not expensive and Easy to find, plus the Install is Easy for those of us with Mechanical Experience... ...The Complete Writeup with Step by Step explanations, full of Guiding Pictures, could be Reached, Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129779-the-definitive-rear-e-brake-retrofit-solution/I Hope this could be Useful...Please, read it Completely to Understand the reason Why and How to do that.Kind Regards. Edited January 22, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 (edited) Now my Subaru "BumbleBeast" has a Couple of Weeks driving with the Rear e-Brake and it "Feels" So Natural to the Car; works Awesome and is somehow unnoticeable as a modification... even the Park Brake Light Works: everything works Flawlessly!!! Look for more Photos at my Writeup! I'll Like to know What do you Think about the Retrofitting and the Complete Writeup about that on the Link above.Kind Regards. Edited January 22, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendecker Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Wow!!! Another AMAZING write up. Great job. -Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 17, 2012 Author Share Posted July 17, 2012 (edited) Thank you for your Kind words, which are highly appreciated.My Weberized EA82 Subaru "BumbleBeast" has a High Vibration Accel Superstock 8140 ignition coil (Made in USA) filled with Epoxy instead of Oil, the Nippon Denso Distribuitor worked great with that since year 2006, when I made the Weber carburator swap.I Use my BumbleBeast 60% on Road as weekdays daily driver, and 40% offroading during weekends, usually to different mountain trips with my family; so the High Vibration Coil was my Choice then...Different coils does have different Ohms of Resistance or Ω Value, so if the aftermarket coil has different Ω value, it could kill the Ignition module, not because the increased coil's power output; the Risk is by the increased effort done by the ignition Module thru its two wires sent to the Coil, to make that Coil to work, due to its increased Ω resistance.So, the Accel Superstock 8140 High Vibration (Made in USA) Coil has the Following Values: ...an Accel Super Stock Coil: Primary Resist 1.2 Ohms Secondary 8.9 K Ohms; Turn Ratio 100:1; Max Voltage 42000v; And the Stock Nippon Denso ignition Coil has almost the same values: I can tell you that the resistance values are very close to stock specs.Primary= 1.02 ohmsSecondary=between 8 - 12K ohmsBut I have no experience using one. Since the Accel's coil Resistance Ω Values are Closer to the Stock Coil's Resistance Ω Values, there has never been a problem with that setup. Edited January 22, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 (edited) Recently, after almost Seven Years of Running my BumbleBeast with the Accel Superstock ignition Coil, the Ignition Module on the Distributor Failed... More Info, ~► Here; but I changed it with a good used one and the car is Running Fine again... The Module's fail was due to its Age and Use: 27 Years and more than 300,000 Miles: I can't complain at all. Kind Regards. Edited January 22, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo To add the Web Link on the Word: "Here" ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted July 24, 2012 Author Share Posted July 24, 2012 (edited) ► The Carburated 2WD (FWD) EA82's came with the Nippon Denso Distributor. ► The Carburated 4WD (AWD) EA82's came with the Hitachi Distributor. As far as I know, the 2WD Distributors has a Faster acceleration Advance Curve than their 4WD counterparts; I wrote a short writeup about How to Test an Ignition Module, it has easy guiding Pictures as Usual. You can Reach that Writeup, Here.Kind Regards. Edited January 22, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo the word "Here" is a Web Link ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) I have updated my Writeup about the Rear Park Brake Retrofit with aditional information, ideas & photos... Kind Regards. Edited January 22, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo To add some Pictures ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 (edited) Have you ever been stuck locked inside your own Car? ... ...I was finishing the details of my Rear Park Brake (e-Brake) Retrofit on my "BumbleBeast" and I was seated on the Rear seat when the Door suddenly got closed...As I have a baby Daughter, I always has the Security Locks placed in order to avoid that she could open the rear Doors from the inside, even without the Locks; so the rear doors won't open from the inside. ... ...All the door's Windows were full rolled up and those are Electric, and I Left the keys on my garage's Table, next to my cellphone... outside! Also, Both front seats were moved to the far front, 'cos I was reinstalling the Center Console back on its place at that very moment, while I was Completely alone at Home...Since I am a Big Guy, 6' tall and over 110 Kg driving an Old Subie Wagon, it wasn't easy to "Slide" myself Between the front seats that were pushed to the far front, and then move and recline the Driver's front seat to get out of the Car... wasn't easy but it was pretty Fun ... ...I thought that I must share that funny experience here, so: Don't left the Keys outside your car, if you're working inside: you might Need 'em on the ignition, especially if your subie has electric windows ... ...Kind Regards. Edited January 26, 2014 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Have you ever been stuck locked inside the Rear of your own Car? I was finishing the details of my Rear Park Brake (e-Brake) Retrofit on my "BumbleBeast" and I was seated on the Rear seat when the Door suddenly got closed... As I have a baby Daughter, I always has the Security Locks placed in order to avoid that she could open the rear Doors from the inside, even without the Locks; so the rear doors won't open from the inside. :-\ All the door's Windows were full rolled up and those are Electric... and I Left the keys on my garage's Table, next to my cellphone... outside! Also, Both front seats were moved to the far front, 'cos I was reinstalling the Center Console back on its place at that very moment... while I was Completely alone at Home. Since I am 1.80 Mts tall and 240 Lbs. Weight, it wasn't easy to "Slide" myself Between the front seats and then move and recline the Driver's front seat to get out of the Car... wasn't easy but it was pretty Fun I thought that I must share that funny experience here, so: Don't left the Keys outside your car, if you're working inside: you might Need 'em. Kind Regards. i've heard people getting locked outside there car but inside:lol:you need to make an extra set of keys to keep inside your car incase it happens again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 24, 2012 Author Share Posted August 24, 2012 (edited) Yes ... ... Since that weird incident, I Always carry spare keys for my Subaru "BumbleBeast" and my Wife's car, the "KiaStein" on my Wallet. Long years ago, around mid 1990's decade, I decided to build and weld some metallic reinforcements to the undercarriage and to the underframe of the body of our Subie; with the idea of let it better manage the ocasional impacts it might receive during offroadings; also such reinforcements should provide a better placement for the lifting Jack, distributing the car's weight on it in a better way, especially during the inclined road repairs, found during offroadings. In this photo below, you can see the angled reinforcement placed where the lifting jack goes, in the frame under the doors, see: Sadly I didn't take Photos of such reinforcements' building or install process, but I showed them to my friend and USMB member "Superu" who came to visit me here, in Honduras long years ago; He decided to build the same reinforcements to his Awesome dual-range Subaru Legacy, and here are some photos from him: Beside that minor incident, everything is AWESOME!!! ... ... I am Glad that the Swap is Already Done, can't wait to see the Edited Video. About this: ...... It looks similar to the Reinforcements I did to my Subie, do you Remember? ... ... and his answer YES, you're info was the inspiration!! Maybe this ideas are Helpful for other Subaru owners as well.Kind Regards. Edited May 12, 2017 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 (edited) As I already told here, in the very first post of this thread, my Subaru "BumbleBeast" came from California (USA) to my Li'l Country (Honduras) in a Long Trip done in 1985, the subie had only few Miles when the Trip Started... I can't imagine any Better way to break new any engine. The Subie came in a Caravan, Following a fully loaded 18 wheeler truck and followed by a Corolla.That time the Subie was somehow the "Jewel" toy for my Father (I was 10 years old then, in 1985) and the Subie only showed signs of overheating when it came to our Warm Caribbean Country, so that same year 1985, the very first Mod done to my Subaru "BumbleBeast" was to Remove the Thermostat; besides that, the subie stayed untouched and unmodified for its First Seven Years... But Unleaded fuel wasn't available here (until 1994) So, the pollution control System (you know how complex the Feedback Carburetors for California specs, are) got somehow "Poisoned" with the Lead and the car slowly started to Fail... The EA82 isn't a Powerful engine you know, but it felt very Weak after Seven Years burning Leaded Fuel, with both catalytics almost mired and Failing sensors, the Exhaust was irritating the Eyes of the occupants; so after a Ride, all the Passengers came out from the Subie with Bloody Red Eyes ... ... like if we were Smokin' something, and after a Long trip, we needed urgently collyrium drops for our eyes... Beside the Gutless feeling and the Poisonous Exhaust, the Subie's engine increased the average fuel Consumption and had to work Harder, always at higher temperatures which risen up if we were Drivin' uphill with some load...So, in the beginning of year 1993; my dad and I decided to do some Modifications to the "BumbleBeast"... that was the beginning of everything done to this Wagon Edited October 21, 2015 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Underlined Words are Web Links ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 (edited) The Second Mod done to my Subaru "BumbleBeast" was done in year 1993: a free flow Exhaust, so we got rid of both mired Catalytic converters and the restrictive stock Muffler; we used 2" Pipes for all the Exhaust, from the beginning to the end. We removed the primary Catalytic converter which is inside the junction where both sides' exhausts meet; we Joined both Heads' Exhaust in a simple "Y" and then we removed the Secondary Catalytic converter, which was located in the pipe between said junction and the Muffler; so now the Pipe goes straight from the "Y" to a Custom built "Free Flow" Muffler. ► Important Note: In fact, your engine does Not need any "Backpressure", it is a pretty usual confusion, what they need is to join the Left head's exhaust to the Right head's exhaust, in a "Y" shaped pipe (other designs, such as Unequal Lenght Headers, works as well) in order to gain the proper Scavenging effect. So, your exhaust needs Scavenging, not Backpressure, see this documentation for further information on the Subject: It is easy to see how this misunderstanding arises. Lets’ say that Max puts a 3-inch system on his normally aspirated car. He soon realises that he has lost power right through the power band. The connection is made in his throbbing brain …. put on 3" pipe = loss of backpressure = loss of power. Max erroneously concludes that you need backpressure to retain performance. He has ignored the need for exhaust gas velocity to get that scavenge effect. ~► http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S4_Back.html Back pressure at it's most extreme form can lead to reversion of the exhaust stream - that is to say the exhaust will flow backwards, which is not good. The trick is to have a pipe that that is as narrow as possible while having as close to zero back pressure as possible at the RPM range you want your power band to be located at. Exhaust pipe diameters are best suited to a particular RPM range (remember the pulses!). A smaller pipe diameter will produce higher exhaust velocities at a lower RPM but create unacceptably high amounts of back pressure at high rpm. Thus if your power band is located 2000-3000 RPM you'd want a narrower pipe than if your power band is located at 8000-9000 RPM. ~► http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/exhaustbackpressure.html To make the "Free Flow" Muffler, a friend of us which is an expert welder, cut the metal sheet from an old (1970's) Ford F-150 unrusted Door; wrapped it as a cylinder, then we made a simple Pass-thru design; I was with him along all the Process.Sorry, No internet nor digital cameras for me in year 1993, but I made a couple of Schematic drawings to illustrate the Idea: The Exhaust Pipes:The Custom Muffler's interior:A Recent Picture: (yes, this is the same setup that has been working flawlesskly since 1993 up to date) That Exhaust is not Loud, (in fact I hear more intake's induction noise with the Weber carb under acceleration) and the exhaust is Still in Good Shape after all these years. Edited October 21, 2015 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 (edited) The third Mod were also done during same year 1993 by the local Subaru dealer, we didn't know for sure how to get rid of the Failing sensors and there was a crowded engine bay, with hoses running like "Spaghetti" everywhere...So, my dad took the Subie then, to the Local Subaru Dealer's repair shop, and they modified some things, removed a Lot of Pollution Control Stuff, and they Closed the EGR passage; since nothing of that is legally required in Honduras and almost everything was failing or about to fail; they gave to us a box full of removed parts & hoses...With that done, the car felt Way Much Better... My dad took us (the whole family) to a Long Trip on the Subie to the Neighbour country: "El Salvador" for the whole Holy week of 1993, and the Subie felt even better each mile it Ran... we went to the "El Cuco" Beach there.No more Bloody Red Eyes nor poisonous exhaust, also no more High fuel consumption, plus the Engine felt more Powerful, the Subie ran way cooler and felt really Faster than it was. Edited October 21, 2015 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 (edited) In december 1994 one head gasket failed; it was "Blowing" outside the engine the coolant, only at Operating Temperatures (warm), from a point under the engine where the head meets the block, nearby the Exhaust port... the only way I could find that, was to crawl under the Subie to inspect the engine when it was off and cool; then I found a very "Clean" area right there: the Hot coolant coming out, came as Vapor which cleaned said Area, and that is the Reason why it was very Hard to find the leakage. In january 1995, my dad needed to do an important errand, going on a trip in the Subie and I advised him to avoid using the Subie 'till we fix it first, because it was loosing coolant; I needed to obtain the New Head Gaskets first, but he didn't agree, he said... "I'll refill the Radiator with the engine Running" ...and he did that.What a Bad idea it was... we had no previous experience with aluminium engines, so when the EA82 was overheating, he tried to refill the Radiator with fresh water on the Road, and that sudden temperature change, Cracked one of the Heads! ... ... to the point that the valves got loose somehow, on said broken head.The subie came back still moving by itself ... ... with an Horrible sound and Shaking for being working on two cylinders only, but it did the 100 Kms (60 Miles) Trip, which I consider Beyond Awesome for the EA82.After that, we changed Both Heads on the Engine, and we learned with the Subaru Dealer's technicians, that there are Three (3) Generations of Heads for the EA82. Edited October 21, 2015 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 (edited) Let me Show you how you'll identify the Three Different Heads' Generations for the EA82 engine: ~► Gen 1 - EA82 (Written alone, those came in the earlier Engines)~► Gen 2 - EA82 (Written underlined, those came on the newer engines)~► Gen 3 - [EA82] (Written inside a Box) The local Subaru Dealer told us (My Father and I) when we purchased the New Heads Long Years Ago, that those (Third Gen ones) Never came Stock, those were improved Replacement Heads, also some other USMB Members said the Same here, as you can read: mikeshoup said: All Gen 3 heads fit... Gen 3 heads btw, were not put into any production vehicle to my knowledge... jeffast said: gen 3 heads were only installed in at dealer ships no car came with them from the factory thus why they're uber rare GeneralDisorder said: ... And as far as Gen 3 heads, there's nothing different about their fitment, but they are almost impossible to find as they were only availible from the dealer after EA82T production had ceased... Here, Some explanation on the Heads:~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/14090-generation-3-head/ 88RxTuner said: ... the Gen3 heads have wider valve spacing in the head, which helps reduce the cracks that appear between the seats. They also have thicker casting in the exhaust port area, where these heads are notorious for cracking and leaking coolant. Generally speaking, they are an overall better casting of the same head. Also, I found this Video of Prototype DOHC EA82 Heads! Those will improve any natural aspirated EA82 up to 140 Hp. There is a Discussion Thread about the DOHC EA82 Heads, Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131098-dohc-ea82-aviation/ Update: Several persons are retrofitting those EA82 DOHC heads from the New Zealand's AutoFlight company, and seems like the hardest part is to obtain the Head Gaskets, as they will need to be Custom-Made; while the timing belts are used directly from another car's engine. Besides an RX model running with DOHC EA82, I saw an XT Turbo, a.k.a: "Vortex" whose owner has a series of videos online, regarding the Retrofitting Process, See: Kind Regards. Edited August 2, 2020 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo To add the Update ☺ 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 wow i learn something every time i go on this thread so glad i subscribed the first time i saw it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 (edited) Thank you for your Kind words. ...the Local Subaru Dealer's Garage ... modified some things ... and they Closed the EGR passage... They Said that the EGR Design was not "Healty" for the EA82, and Subaru confirmed that. How? ...Our local Subaru Dealer told us ... that those were improved Replacement Heads... Well, The Third gen Heads Does Not have the EGR passage, they're Sealed from Factory.Kind Regards. Edited October 21, 2015 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 5, 2012 Author Share Posted September 5, 2012 (edited) Here I share a couple of Photos of my Subaru "BumbleBeast" at the Local "Napa" Store: Here says in Spanish: "Open on Sundays, from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m." My Subie working with me, on a Construction, hauling different materials: Kind Regards. Edited December 18, 2015 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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