man on the moon Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Trying to change my transmission to a 5 speed dr. made good time until it was time to punch the roll pins first one got stuck part way out, as did the little phillips screwdriver I was punching it with. Second pin won't budge, but that's a moot point as long as the first is jammed. Pulled pushed whacked oiled. Moved the motor for more working room (jack under the transmission). Short of a hacksaw which I will do, anyone have a better plan? Can't drive it as is with a screwdriver banging around. Can't get it out to fix/trash it and cut my losses... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Trying to change my transmission to a 5 speed dr. made good time until it was time to punch the roll pins first one got stuck part way out, as did the little phillips screwdriver I was punching it with. Did you get the pin about a 1/4" out before it jammed or most of the way out? You are going to need a proper 3/16" punch. Most likely you have flared out the end of the tension pin and jammed it in one of the spaces between the DOJ cup and the axle stub. If you can get a small diameter punch into the hollow center part of the tension pin, you might be able to knock the screwdriver out from the other side of the pin. Then if you are lucky and haven't deformed the pin too much you can use the 3/16" punch to get the pin out. The title of your post says your punch is stuck. Had you used a 3/16" punch it wouldn't be stuck. It is well worth a couple dollars to get the right tool. I don't mean to lecture, but this easily avoidable situation can turn a routine maintenance activity into a very difficult problem to solve. If you think about drilling it out, try other options first. It's really easy to break a bit in there and then you are really in for some work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 1, 2011 Author Share Posted October 1, 2011 It is probably 3/8 inch out, yeah. Same tool I used at the junkyard to get the 'new' transmission. I'll walk to a store and see what I can find. If I can get the punch out I can drive until I find another time to work on it, otherwise im done for a while Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 1, 2011 Author Share Posted October 1, 2011 Lectures are ok at times, just wish there was a quick fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryc38 Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 I may be mistaken but I believe the holes are tapered and you must be careful that you drive the pin out in the right direction. If you examine the holes that are 180 degrees apart you'll notice a difference. Also be sure you align the holes properly when you install the pin. I experienced this on my son's wagon when I was changing the rear inner and outer wheel bearing assembly and had to remove the axle. I caught it but it was more luck than skill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 1, 2011 Author Share Posted October 1, 2011 The back is good, more likely the screw driver point flared the pin. Got some punches and stuff, we'll see! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 The back is good, more likely the screw driver point flared the pin. Got some punches and stuff, we'll see! hi, just so you will be aware of it, the axle will slide on the trans stubs in any spline , however only 1 will line up exactly , the half way around will look like it lines up right , but is just a 1/2 tooth off and will definately bind the pins , and be very difficult. the last guy may have put it back like that and therby causing you the problem , i have had to take a few out that were put on 1/2 round out of alignment , the pin goes in almost but not really . even with the right punch they will not be easy, and a smaller pinch can help too. just saying maybe this is what happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Back=bevel. On my phone. I'm thinking bolt cutters, cut the shaft of the screw driver off, put it together, drive to a shop? Can I even drive like this? Don't see small punches, but bent a fe w allen wrenches! With a light I can see that the point of the screw driver is clear through the shaft, about to poke through the other side (the allen wrench didn't go too deep so I peeked inside). I don't think im getting anywhere with what I have. Can I take the axles off the wheels and drop it that way, actually? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 hi, just so you will be aware of it, the axle will slide on the trans stubs in any spline , however only 1 will line up exactly , the half way around will look like it lines up right , but is just a 1/2 tooth off and will definately bind the pins , and be very difficult. the last guy may have put it back like that and therby causing you the problem , i have had to take a few out that were put on 1/2 round out of alignment , the pin goes in almost but not really . even with the right punch they will not be easy, and a smaller pinch can help too. just saying maybe this is what happened. So maybe it's not my fault! Entirely...of you are right I will be adding that to the stupid sh*t the po did thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Sorry for serial posting, I think this is what I will do. get the motor secure or out. Put enough bolts to hold the transmission in place for a ride on a truck. Ask a shop to separate the wheels from the axles, and drop the tranny if they need to/can't get the pin out (tried the other one with a real punch, no dice). Then I'll pick it up andfinish the job another day. Looking at what I would need top get the wheels undone, I don't have the tools unless someone knows better. I work tomorrow, but may end up sick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maozebong Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 try using a drill bit that you dont need. they are made of a hardened steel that should be able to punch it back the opposite way. it kinda sounds like you have it 180 degrees out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Only hammering, not drilling? Im skeptical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 (edited) Since you are doing a transmission swap and not just an axle replacement, you could disconnect the axles from the DOJ cups. You will have to disconnect the inner control arm pivot bolts at the very least to get enough play to pull the bearing assemblies out of the DOJ cups and you might need to even disconnect the struts to get enough free play. Once you get the axles out of the DOJ cups you can pull the transmission and have a much better access to the pins. Edited October 2, 2011 by ferox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crawlerdan Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 Since you are doing a transmission swap and not just an axle replacement, you could disconnect the axles from the DOJ cups. You will have to disconnect the inner control arm pivot bolts at the very least to get enough play to pull the bearing assemblies out of the DOJ cups and you might need to even disconnect the struts to get enough free play. Once you get the axles out of the DOJ cups you can pull the transmission and have a much better access to the pins. i bought a car that someone did this too, and the solution was exactly what you said- i pulle d the trans, sooooooooooo much easier on a bench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 I will try that in the morning. How hard is it to get the axle out of the wheel assembly? The book makes it sounds like going to the moon then if I can't get it I'll call AAA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crawlerdan Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 it should slide out, gentle bfh persuasion sometimes needed, dont whack your wheel studs, protect them with the lug nuts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 Will I need to undo the brakes at all, or just get the axle nut off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus56 Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 the brake caliper will hold the hub and rotor until you have to re install the axle, so not yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 (edited) Ok, got the axle nut off on the jammed pin side. Axle is solidly in there, anything else I need to take off, our just be persuasive? I dont really want to go the doj route if I can help it, sounds messy. edit: neve mind, got it. Phone is typing funny, sorry for any oddness. Think I will wash the cover/case when im done Edited October 2, 2011 by man on the moon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 If you dont mind ruining some cheap extension there is a dimple on the end of the axle on the wheel side. BFH the extension into the dimple should not take much but sometimes... The wheel should then pull off unbolt the caliper and tie it off so it is not dangling by the line. This is usually where you would need to remove the strut and probably the ball joint and possible the outter tie rod end so the knuckle can pull off the axle completely. it is not ideal i know but I have had some seriously tight fitting axles a time or two and was forced to go this route. I know this is not where your problem is but If nothing else is working and you dont want to disassemble the DOJ that"s the best I can come up with. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 (edited) Take that universe! The transmission with both axles attached is on the ground. Now to raise the car enough to slide it out and the new one in, oh, and put the engine back in place. I think this deserves a beer, thank you for the tip on bfh and able nuts. If you guys weRe closer id get everyone beer. Edit: quick question. If I end up not getting the axles off, can I drive with great wheel only/4wd? Enough to get to a shop to have them get the axles off? Edited October 2, 2011 by man on the moon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykeys Toy Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 no. you need the outter part of the axle to hold everyting on the front together. If you do that then yes you can run in 4wd to get where ever. I know a few people that have done it for years because its fun. ( Psycho ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted October 2, 2011 Share Posted October 2, 2011 no. you need the outter part of the axle to hold everyting on the front together. As he said. I would also add that you can't put your wheels back on and rest the car on the ground until the spindles are reinstalled in the knuckle and hub assemblies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 2, 2011 Author Share Posted October 2, 2011 This is good to know, I will leave it on the stands until I am done. In other news, there is no way I an getting that pin out. Ran to auto zone for another rear main seal (the first new one tore when I put it in) and found out they have good price reman axles, so I will do that instead and just give the junkyard my gift of a transmission with one axle hanging off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
man on the moon Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 Things look ok to go--ordering a new pair of axles today/tomorrow (I'd rather not replace just one) and a new main seal for the rear--the new one I had was torn either in the package or as I installed it. Glad I caught it . Auto Zone ordered a new one that should be here in a few days. Just a couple dumb questions: 1--the AutoZone lookup thingy specified axle assemblies for automatic...is there a difference between at and mt? I can't see a difference, but I'm not in the mood to find out the hard way and a quick internet/forum search hasn't given me any satisfactory information either way. 2--The wiring plug harness thingys on the push button are square, and there are two. On the d/r there is one, and it is round. The wire colors are the same or close, can I just splice the matching wires together? I can get the d/r car side harness from the junkyard assuming the donor is still there. In the meanwhile I just have to make sure not to go in reverse . I can start the car at the starter if the neutral safety switch is an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now