1-3-2-4 Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 So my and light has been on since I got this car early this year.. Ok so I figured out with my CNN its the right rear and the code matches.. Now here is the funny part my and has been working for a small but like maybe a mile before it comes back again, while I have not pulled the sensor I did get a quick look and nothing looked broken or anything like that.. Funny the right rear is the one that costs the most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 So my and light has been on since I got this car early this year.. Ok so I figured out with my CNN its the right rear and the code matches.. Now here is the funny part my and has been working for a small but like maybe a mile before it comes back again, while I have not pulled the sensor I did get a quick look and nothing looked broken or anything like that.. Funny the right rear is the one that costs the most. Have you looked at the tone ring and sensor? Sometimes the tone ring can get all rusted up, the sensor can get a lot of dust and crap built up on it, etc. A lot of the time cleaning it all up fixes the problem. Or, just pull the fuse and the light in the dash..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Well the fact I pulled the connection and I tested the ohm on the sensor and it was open. I'm not going to pull the bulb. The tone ring is fine.. I still curious why the right sensor costs more.. I thought the left and right would be interchangeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 I have a R Front that was flagged. I changed the sensor as the tip was broken. The new sensor still read open. The connector was worn, once I cleaned and tightened the connection it was good back to the ABS unit. I have spare rear's if you need one. $20 shipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 Just an FYI, the sensor must be prefectly cylindrical in shape. With time they may loose their crisp edges they will not function properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share Posted October 7, 2011 I can check it again today to be sure one thing I notice is how the pedal feels when the light is not on.. Stuff then it feels normal. Once I get a chance to bleed the brakes I can find out more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share Posted October 7, 2011 finally got to sensor out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share Posted October 7, 2011 As expected code came back I got at least one solid use of the and then soon after the light came on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 Good job getting that out!!! They can be a ***************! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share Posted October 7, 2011 Aerokroil is all you need Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 Just put the meter back on it.. still getting 0.2 I from that right sensor and a normal one gives me like 1.2 k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 Service manual states limit is 0.8-1.2k for resistance the sensor is nothing more then a magnet with a coil wrapped around it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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