Re-Keying a '94 Legacy? (3 separate keys!)

[Red92]

So I just brought home a '94 Legacy, and one of it's quirks is that it came with THREE keys! One works the door locks, one for the rear hatch, and the third for the ignition. All three are different.

 

I don't even know where to start on this one. For now, I will just deal with it (almost doubled the size of my keychain!)... but what is the best solution? Is it cheaper to leave one of the locks in place and have the rest reworked to match? Or should I try to find a car in the junkyard with keys and swap all of the locks at once?

 

Thanks.

[bheinen74]

I would try to have the dealer cut a key based on the VIN and see if that new key will work them all.

 

You have to take your title and registration for them to prove you own the VIN being looked up.

 

-I think there is chance that will open and work everything.

 

If that is not the trick, then someone messed up the locks etc. I would probably then rekey the doors and rear hatch to match the ignition, or whatevr the local locksmith will do the cheapest.

 

good luck though.

 

jelllllous.

[GeneralDisorder]

Just remove the door lock and hatch tumblers and have them keyed to the ignition - have the ignition handy so they can determine the key-code since it's obviously different from the passenger tumbler code. Any good locksmith can handle this.

 

GD

[johnceggleston]

i have removed all 3 lock cylinders, and in my opinion the doors are the hardest to re-install. so i would re-key the ignition and the hatch.

 

the ignition is designed, so if you know what you are doing and have the right tool, you can remove it without taking apart the plastic surrounding it. but even as a beginner i was able to do it with out much head ache. there are a couple of good write ups,one is mine, do a search.

 

the hatch is simple, but it will help if you have a deep well 8mm? socket. i think it's 8mm, it's small. i don't know why the threaded stud is so long but it is.

 

i would call, or visit may be better, a couple of locksmiths, show them the keys and ask if they can help, and how much to re-key. if the keys are similar it may just be a ''need a better key'' deal. but if they are obviously different then re-key is the way to go.

[987687]

I re-keyed the trunk on one of my cars to match the ignition and doors, then later when the ignition tumbler failed I re-keyed a different one to the same key. It's actually really easy to re-key the locks subaru uses.

You can usually re-use about half of the wafers, just get a bag and replace the ones you need to replace. File them all down so that they're flush with the cylinder when the key is in it.

To get the ignition cyl apart just drill a hole next to the two pins on the side and pop the pins out. The whole thing will come apart and works more or less the same as the door and trunk locks. I'd probably re-key the trunk and ignition because you only have to do two locks that way.

[Red92]

Thanks everyone.

 

I re-keyed an old VW a few years back, with the same sort of technique with the wafers... only I just bought a few spare locks, and took 'em all out and sorted through to find the ones I needed without filing them down. So I think as long as I can get the lock cylinders out, I should be OK with that job. Thanks for the info, 987687.

 

 

For the ignition, I've replaced the electrical switch portion before, but not the lock cylinder. johnceggleston- you mention that it comes apart without removing the plastic - does that mean that the ignition cylinder comes out the side, and not out through the bottom?

 

 

 

Also, here's another puzzle. On the rear hatch, the key will unlock it... but the same key won't lock it. I can't remember - can these hatches be locked with the key, or were they supposed to just self re-lock with the power lock when you closed it?

[987687]

I don't see any way the ignition lock could come out without removing the plastic. It's just a top and bottom piece, not really that hard. Then you have to get the head eye bolts out. I usually drill two holes in them and use a spanner bit.

 

The rear hatch key probably only turns one way because the key or lock are worn. I've had door locks that only turn one way. A good tear down, cleaning up of the cylinder and wafers usually fixes that.

[Kurumano Seiza]

Not the same problem as you have here, but the passenger door on my Forester was replaced and they never thought to pull the old lock cylinder from the door.

 

Last month I pulled it apart and took it in for $15 to get it worked over - now I can even open the passenger door with the same key.

[Red92]

I re-keyed the trunk on one of my cars to match the ignition and doors, then later when the ignition tumbler failed I re-keyed a different one to the same key. It's actually really easy to re-key the locks subaru uses.

You can usually re-use about half of the wafers, just get a bag and replace the ones you need to replace. File them all down so that they're flush with the cylinder when the key is in it.

 

 

So I picked up a pair of lock cylinders for the rear hatch today to get an assortment of wafers. After aligning the wafers so that the cylinder would turn, I tried to pull the inner part out the back, but found out that it wouldn't come out that way.

 

I was able to get it out through the front though by pulling the crimped-on chromed part off... but it didn't come off without a fight. zzz

 

For the next one, any tips on how to get it apart without destroying it in the process?

 

 

 

Also, does anyone have any tips or procedures for how to pull the lock cylinders out of the front doors? There was one car in the junkyard that had its door panels removed, but the glass was still in the way. I'm also wondering if the lock cylinder can come out without removing the whole latch mechanism from the door?

 

Thanks. :cool:

[Red92]

I would try to have the dealer cut a key based on the VIN and see if that new key will work them all.

 

I just had this done today.

 

 

Before, I had three keys:

* Drivers door

* Ignition

* Trunk lid (*unlock only*)

... and no key for the passenger door.

 

 

So which old key does the new key match? Well, it happens to match the trunk lid key - the one lock which is easiest to change (doh!), and which I would have least expected it to match.

 

But as a bonus, the new key (which is noticeably "thicker" than the old worn down one) will also lock the rear lid (which the old key would not), and it will also lock and unlock the passenger door!

 

 

So in the end, until I get it re-keyed, I *STILL* have to carry three keys. But I can do more with them now.

[Kurumano Seiza]

...does anyone have any tips or procedures for how to pull the lock cylinders out of the front doors? There was one car in the junkyard that had its door panels removed, but the glass was still in the way. I'm also wondering if the lock cylinder can come out without removing the whole latch mechanism from the door?

The window needs to be in the closed position, then you'll easily be able to pull the little plastic clip that holds the lock activation bar to the lock cylinder, then take the flat metal clip that's holding the lock in place.

[Red92]

The window needs to be in the closed position, then you'll easily be able to pull the little plastic clip that holds the lock activation bar to the lock cylinder, then take the flat metal clip that's holding the lock in place.

 

 

Thanks!

 

I'm pretty sure all of the windows were closed on the cars in the junkyard, so I'll write down your directions and take 'em with me next time I go.

[Kurumano Seiza]

Thanks!

 

I'm pretty sure all of the windows were closed on the cars in the junkyard, so I'll write down your directions and take 'em with me next time I go.

Looking forward to the success story.