Fairtax4me Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 The benefits of synthetics not withstanding, I see no reason why an engineer would require 0w20 as opposed a 5w20 oil for the naturally aspirated engines. They both have to be in the same range at operating temperature. More than likely, it's aimed at reducing harmful emissions. At a given temperature the 0 weight oil will flow easier than 5 weight. The thinner oil allows the engine to spin easier, which reduces emissions during warm-up. This allows the engine to reach operating temp in less time, further reducing emissions. I won't be surprised to see engines requiring 0w-10, or even lower weight, oil in a few years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 (edited) but why all the cost of high priced synthetic oil, just to insure 500k. I have had no problem getting to 250k on regular Castrol........change intervals of 3k. By 250k, the car is used up, rusted, pittied windshield, worn shocks, trans acting up, too rusted to work on. Why would i want a car engine to last any longer than 300k really? I don't get why people pay a premium for the synthetic, when regular will do just as proven good to last the cars shell. Oil change with GTX regular (eithe 5w-30 or 10w30) and a wix filter price : 20.75 Oil change with Synthetic and Wix filter, upwards of 40 bucks. Engine mileage longevity for either over 300k Change interval 3k vs 6k or so..... if you don't drive lots of miles, that is not an issue. I suppose if you are driving 100k a year then synthetic is good. anyone else agree... Edited October 15, 2011 by bheinen74 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the3rsss Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 As far as soa calling for 0w20. Most car manufactures have, over the past 20years, lowered the viscosity recommendations. Over 90 per of engine wear is caused during cold start up. So, I can understand the zero. As far as the "working" weight of 20, well, maybe they want better flow at working temps? There was a time not to long ago, when we were pouring 10th w40 molasses in our engines. With that said, I wouldn't be afraid to use a 0w20 synthetic year round if that is what is recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie94 Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 *To Original poster-Not trying to Hi-jack with my question* but since everyone is talking about the benefits of Synthetic oil..would it do my 2.5 (with over 200K) good to switch ? gotta do another oil change soon (silly me,i put 10w-30 in last time and it calls for 5w-30,lifters tick a bit) i have thought of using Royal Purple (which would cost about the same as Synthetic i think) Thanks.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the3rsss Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Hey. That's a good argument for not using synthetic 74. It works too good. Who wants a good motor in a pos car. Haha your right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the3rsss Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 And don't forget longevity! The compounds in conventional oil start to break down almost immediately. Just sitting in your crank conventional oil will break down. This just does not happen with synthetics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 In my experience there are some engine designs that GREATLY benefit from the use of synthetic oil. Turbo engines especially. There are cases of engines not making it to 100k miles on conventional oil due to sludge. Saab, VW, Toyota, Chrysler, all had major trouble with sludge. Granted, most of those cases probably could have been prevented by using shorter drain intervals. But where is the cost benefit of using conventional oil with a 2k mile drain interval? The manufacturer has no control over when the oil in an engine gets changed. When any internal failure occurs dealing with oil, it's often up to the consumer to prove that fluid changes have been done at the proper intervals. This quite often leads to warranty disputes, and subsequently, loss of consumer confidence in the brand. If the customers case is accepted the manufacturer is forced to spend a lot of money to replace an engine to retain that customer. When the entire problem could have been avoided by the use of synthetic oil, guess what changes those manufacturers made to their recommended maintenance schedules. It saves the manufacturer money, and gives them a sturdier leg to stand on if a failure occurs due to sludge. No engines don't typically need to last beyond 250 or 300k miles. At that point any argument made, for decreased emissions or better cold start protection that synthetic oil may offer over conventional, is pretty much out the window because the rest of the car is worn out, and the engine is only a teenagers weekend drive to the beach from tossing a rod through the block. But there are environmental benefits from using less oil to maintain the engine during that period. Fewer leaks due to dried/hardened seals and gaskets. And again the cost benefit from a roughly 3 times longer drain interval (I've done 10k mile intervals on synthetic vs 3k at best on conventional oil). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sario Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 *To Original poster-Not trying to Hi-jack with my question* but since everyone is talking about the benefits of Synthetic oil..would it do my 2.5 (with over 200K) good to switch ? gotta do another oil change soon (silly me,i put 10w-30 in last time and it calls for 5w-30,lifters tick a bit) i have thought of using Royal Purple (which would cost about the same as Synthetic i think) Thanks.. I switched my 1997 2.5 litter to syntetiic at 200k just becuase i got a great deal on oil. It's still running fine 50k latter, but i'm sure it would be running the same on dino oil too. Also i run 10-30 sometimes in the summer if i'm going to be towing or what not. It doesn't seem to make it tick any more than other subs do when cold...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rverdoold Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 VW has had quite a few law suits for engine sludge seizing engines (and have had them here as well) along with a few other mfg's. .... Professionally even on the best synthetic unless you are doing al ot and i mean 100% highway miles, (and there is always someone who will say they got 20 gazzillion on an oil change well good for them) your pushing your luck beyond 7 k and 5 k is actually a lot more reasonable and easier to remember. It has already been proven here that VW is not making cars to last long, but only appear superb on the emission marks. The 1.2 and 1.4 TSI have cracked heads as does the 2.0 TDI, in long term tests. BWM and merc are doing much better from the german brands on reliability but for many many reasons I would not want one of those (merc could still). But all that counts here in Holland is the CO2 per km on paper, so most people get tiny car and then drive it such way the CO2/km is nearly twice as what it can be. A big fail by the government. ... 5k miles is different in km, I usually stick between 10 and 12.5k km and then just a weekend when the weather is nice. There are months I drive 4000 km and there are ones where maybe 400. Problem here is, holland is a plain rip-off country thanks to ebay i can get the same parts cheaper from UK where the subaru community is much bigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the3rsss Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Unlike conventional oil, synthetics will not degrade being used. Also, synthetics are not effected by temp changes. It will thickened, but not degrade. Why synthetics, and all oil, needs to be changed is it becomes diluted by unburned fuel, blow by etc. BTW. I get Mobil one for 26 a jug and a pure one filter for 5 bucks. Walmart. I can do a synthetic change for just a little more then a quality conventional oil. I believe that in ten years, conventional oil will go the way of ignition points and carbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 (edited) Keep in mind that some of the engine seals are made for synthetic and may not tolerate dino well. This just means oil leaks at 80K as opposed to 120 k or more Thinner oil at lower temps means faster warm up for emissions. The actual federal emissions certifiaction is far more complictaed with a very interesting analyzer that takes samples from startup all the way through a test cycle. Edited October 15, 2011 by nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rverdoold Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Thinner oil at lower temps means faster warm up for emissions. The actual federal emissions certifiaction is far more complictaed with a very interesting analyzer that takes samples from startup all the way through a test cycle. Was it also not that motors driven by chain rather than a belt need thinner cold start oil because the chain also runs in an oil bath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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