smilinmama Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 howdy! i am so pleased to find a community of Subaru lovers! The universe has generously placed two hatchbacks right in my lap. One is an 84 1600 hatch, the other is an 87 GL hatch. My current issue is with the 87. Her oil pressure gauge reads very low at low speed and idle (after warming), and increases upon acceleration. When i check the dipstick there looks to be about a half to a full quart too much oil and, judging from the half quart in the back seat, she's running 10W30. Also, the check engine light comes on intermittently. Could this be related? I know this can be a sign of bad things afoot in the engine, but am interested in any possible causes and solutions, beginning with the simplest. I am reasonably capable of repairing a vehicle, given the proper information, but I am not skilled in diagnosis. Also, these are my first Subarus, though I have fallen in love with them both. Imagine adopting twins! Any info will be appreciated, and I look forward to a productive relationship with any and all I may meet here. Peace, Leigh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 The stock gauge and sending unit are notoriously inaccurate. If you suspect a problem with oil pressure you must FIRST determine if the problem actually exists or not. You can get an oil pressure shop gauge at Harbor Freight for cheap - other places carry insturments that can be used for this purpose. All you really need is a 0 to 100 psi gauge and the right fittings to hook it up. You should read no less than 15 psi at a 750 rpm idle when fully warmed up. EA81's have simple oil pumps - you should remove the pump, inspect the internals and determine if it's worth resealing - if it is the seal kit is less than $10 from the dealer. If it's chewed up inside or scored badly you should replace the pump - about $70 from the dealer. There are no aftermarket sources for the pumps and the seal kit is cheap enough that it wouldn't be prudent to source it elsewhere. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilinmama Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 Thanks for the info, especially the bit about where to find the parts. Will follow up after having attempted to correct the problem. Now, anything on ignition switches? My 87 needs a new one. I read that it was easier just to replace the old column. Direction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Does it need the ignition switch (electrical portion) or does it need the lock? GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilinmama Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 The key will start the car, but will not turn it off. The key will not even turn in the direction of 'off'. i have to kill the engine in 1st and then disconnect the battery cable to turn the car all the way off, so i'm guessing the whole switch, but your lock suggestion sounds possible. Do you have experience with this? You are so awesome for having this conversation with me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Yeah I have some experience with these Subaru's :-p. Sounds like the lock and your key are not playing well together. If you can't get the key out of the ignition lock then you may have to visit a locksmith or a knowlegeable board member - you can stop in at my garage if you are in the Portland, OR area or other members in the PNW could likely take a look for you. You may just need to grab the key with some pliers and put some force into it - possibly with some graphite, etc sprayed into the lock. Your first move after extracting the key will be to have new keys made per the code on the passenger door lock tumbler. You can likely read the code off the tumbler by removing the door panel and looking at it with a mirror and flashlight. Any good locksmith can then cut a perfect key. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilinmama Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 the key comes out of the ignition just fine, it just won't turn the car off. However, would your possible solution still apply? I'm about 3 hours from Portland and, although I would love a road trip for such a purpose, my house payment and prop taxes are due, so no money for it. Do you know anyone in the Seattle or Bremerton area who might look at it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 The oil gauge reading is normal and is mentioned in the owner's manual. go for a mechanical gauge for accuracy. Otherwise, just keep a proper oil level of 30wt flavor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maozebong Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 id do an oil change, mostly because you dont know how old it is in the car, maybe seafoam it out for good measure. make sure its full, and drive it (if it will drive). if the oil level increases again, you might have a fueling issue that is causing it to dump too much fuel, and too much fuel dilutes the oil, giving you a lower oil pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 the key comes out of the ignition just fine, it just won't turn the car off. However, would your possible solution still apply? Yes - if it comes out of the ignition easily but will not turn the lock back to the off posistion then you need new keys made from the code on the passenger door lock. I'm about 3 hours from Portland and, although I would love a road trip for such a purpose, my house payment and prop taxes are due, so no money for it. Do you know anyone in the Seattle or Bremerton area who might look at it? Contact Turbone (Rob) - he's in your area and can tell you if you need a new lock or just keys, etc. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilinmama Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 You so rock for all the info and patience! It would be ***************en if it were just the lock and not the whole switch! But I will keep the Turbone in mind just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smilinmama Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 Maozebong, Oil is immaculate, just too much of it. I was thinking that, in a small engine such as this, too much might cause it to foam up and reduce pressure. once it's warm it's down around 10 psi or thereabouts. I was going to drain a bit and see what happens. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Oil capacity is 4.2qrts. Whats been said about low pressure at low idle is true, its normal. As for the ignition switch, its most likely internal and terminal. These old locks go south after years of abuse (mostly to many keys on the key ring). Dont think GD's remedy will work with this, its just plain wore out and a new key isnt going to help. Getting the assembly off the column is a pita, thats why its easier to swap the whole column. Finding one in a wrecking yard with the original key is hit and miss (more miss). I could be talked into a road trip to take a look at it, I'm about 45mi from Seattle and about 50mi from Bremerton. I have quite the collection of Subaru keys, I might be able to find one that works better than what you have currently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Well - it's possible the lock needs replaced.... but I've had really good luck with having new keys cut by the code. I've actually never had to replace a lock except once when I got a car that the previous owner had busted off a screwdriver tip in the lock. At any rate a code-cut key is $20 and may solve the problem. A good locksmith can rebuild the lock once you get it off and bring it to them..... Lock removal on these can be interesting - locking needle nose pliers are my choice for the headless bolts. I've never resorted to replaceing a column but I can see how it could go down that road if you had one knocking about with good keys (never had the luxury). GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman2 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 (edited) Could it possibly be the electrical contact side of the switch? I found a factory replacement for my 87 Brat earlier this year. Mine was shorting out causing voltage spikes and random no start issues. I still have the same lock just replaced the contact side. Just wondering if the contact side could cause the op's problem. Also if you have too much oil in the crankcase you should see air bubbles,foaming mixed in the oil on the dipstick. If you don't have that your oil level maybe high but not causing any issues. My oil pressure has indicated low once before. I replaced the sender not saying that is your problem. I verified my pressure with a gauge like GeneralDisorder recommends. Curretly shows slightly under 20 lbs. hot at idle and around 50 at highway speeds. Edited October 19, 2011 by bratman2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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