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push button dual range?


AKghandi
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i got a gl-10 turbo wagon that had a d/r swapped into it the rear ratio is wrong but thats ok i managed to get ahold of the donor car that has all the original parts from my wagon including the orig. push button 5 spd tranny and all the interior, exterior pieces. now onto the subject!. with all these parts laying around would it be possible to use the push buton actuator, cable, wiring etc to engage the hi/lo on the d/r. i saw a post on here the other night where a guy modded the d/r to have a second lever allowing 2wd lo. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=71289 i wanna do the same thing but use the push button to engage lo or find a way to make it engage the 4wd while the lever controls the hi/ lo.. any one ever done anything like this?

Edited by AKghandi
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The push-button tranny's stock actuator uses the vacuum doodad in the corner of the engine bay by the wiper motor - it's black with green plastic parts in it and has 2 vacuum lines that should go to a 6" round vacuum actuator that moves the part that engages the 4WD lock on the transmission.

 

You would be best off using the push-button 4WD switch and wiring it to a solenoid that actuates the shift linkage currently attached to the 2nd shifter. You would have to find a way to calibrate the solenoid at three different settings - 2WD, 4WD-high, 4WD-low.

 

I would NOT suggest doing this swap as it would be harder to "feel" whether it was safe to shift the transmission out of 4WD with regards to driveline lock on pavement or other high-traction driving surface.

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didnt think of that. i figured i could just use the stock parts that were on my car orig to control the hi/lo a simple on off kinda thing. but ive decided to not do this because i dont have time. i have a rear axle swap all the door locks ignition door panels rear hatch glass, anyone know how to do that?, and a bunch of other little parts&pieces and i have 2 days to do this all. all by myself lol with almost no tools

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I've actually been plannin this mod for a while. I want to use it in my EA81 (regular 5spd D/R right now)

 

My reason: The EA81 4wd lever is mounted solid to the body. When I am in 4 hi, and go on/off throttle, the movement of the trans pushes/pulls on the on the 4wd actuator rod. This pops it in and out of 4wd. It's not adjustments either....it's the short throw between 4wd/2wd, and the weird way the 4wd shift fork is interlocked with sliding pins to the Hi/lo actuator.

 

Since the step up from hi/lo is a longer throw, I don't have any problems in 4 LO. Basically, I can't use 4 hi. Right now it's either 2wd or 4 Lo.

 

I'd like to have the 4wd controlled by the vac actuated button. And leave the hi/lo on the lever. Trequires some mods to the transfer section(rear) of the trans. This way, the 4wd isn't affected by movement of the trans, since hte vacuum unit is bolted to the trans. On;y the Hi/Lo would be affected by movement, and like I said....in 4 lo it's not a problem.

 

Now on an EA82, this isn't a problem since the 4wd lever is mounted to the rest of the shifter stay, so when the trans moves a bit, so can the shifter. So, to do it on an EA82 would be like, "what's the point?" Except it does give you a 2wd Lo.

 

But I digress.

 

My plan:

 

1)Standard EA82 D/R trans front section. Must be one that has mounting bosses for the vacuum cable, most do.

 

2) Standard EA82 S/R rear transfer case section. 2 holes drilled, for the hi/lo shift rod. bosses are there, just need drilled out and the seals from a D/R installed.

 

Hi/Lo actuator rod from a FT4wd D/R or modified standard D/R rod...Either way, just need a solid rod to run through the back section of the trans. Doin it this way, will utilize the factory detents for Hi/lo. The rod will need to be notched on it's top side, so the S/R 4wd shift fork will clear over the top.

 

 

not much mods to make it work.....in theory.......however I've had lots of these trans apart and can visualize every part inside.

 

If you have less experience, you may not want to try this.....but if you do wnat to try it please don't let me stop you.

 

When I have a bit of time to actually do this I will definately do a writeup with pics.

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ok this may be completely unrelated to my post but anyone know any tips to rear c/v removal or is beating it with a hammer till it pops out of the hub the correct way.. keep in mind i did this to the parts im not keeping. just curious about it before i start pulling the parts that i need to keep. and i might be wrong but it seems like you guys are seriously over complicating this. take the actuator and cable and just hook it up to the hi/lo selector and leave the lever for 2wd/4wd.. thats my input. and also i have these parts, if anyone wants we might be able to arrange something. but keep in mind im up here in alaska shipping will probably cost more than the parts

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ok this may be completely unrelated to my post but anyone know any tips to rear c/v removal or is beating it with a hammer till it pops out of the hub the correct way.. keep in mind i did this to the parts im not keeping. just curious about it before i start pulling the parts that i need to keep. and i might be wrong but it seems like you guys are seriously over complicating this. take the actuator and cable and just hook it up to the hi/lo selector and leave the lever for 2wd/4wd.. thats my input. and also i have these parts, if anyone wants we might be able to arrange something. but keep in mind im up here in alaska shipping will probably cost more than the parts

 

There are pins at both ends of the axle.

 

Knock out the roll pins, unbolt the lower shock bolt and let the arm swing down. the axle should slip off the stubs at both ends.

 

The spindle stays in the hub/arm.

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