Greenley Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 I acquired a new project BRAT, with the understanding that it wasn't getting fuel to the carb, or spark. The engine cranks with ease, with the key turned all the way clockwise- or turned all the way backwards to lock- which tells me someone fudged with the ignition lock cylinder at some point FL 2 and it's thick gauge white wire, is where i see a possible issue. There is a small bit of melting of the plastic box, near the spade terminal. From what i gather, this wire goes to the pink ignition switch connector. Which is in fine shape itself. I've swapped in a new FPCU or Revolution Sensor- and i now have fuel in the lines while cranking. Also, i've inspected the fusible links themselves, and they're fine. Unbolted it, checked for corrosion on the underside and there's none. Fuse #5 is good. It's not the coil, or noise condensor. I'm getting pulses from the disty. I have a multimeter at my disposal. Is it possible to create a new circuit here and create spark? Or how should i go about tracing the issue? Thanks, USMB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Do you have power at the positive side of the coil when cranking? If not then you need to get ignition switched power to the coil +. You should check the coil primary resistance - should be about 1 Ohm (between positive and negative terminals). Then check the secondary resistance - should be about 10,000 Ohms - between either of the posts and the coil wire tower. If it fails replace the coil. If it passes that test - put a test light between the negative battery terminal and the negative post on the coil - it should pulse on and off when you crank the engine over. If it fails replace the ignition module in the distributor. If it passes all those tests - you have bad plugs, wires, cap/rotor, etc downstream from the coil. Should be simple to check. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 You state that you have pulses coming from the disty and the coil is good. If that is true then it seems that the trouble would have to be a bad coil wire going to the distributor or something is wrong with the rotor in the disty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BugMeNot2 Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 This is greenley, I haven't been able to login with my username since updating my email address.... So I do indeed have pulses from the - side of coil... I was able to get a spark from the HT lead, by jumping the coil I replaced the disty leads, and the rotor spins when cranking... Cougar, what does this all mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 You say you jumpered the coil and got spark. What points exactly did you jumper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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