RubyRue Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Recently swapped a Rebuilt Long Block from SSI http://www.ssisubaruspecialists.com into my GF's 2000 OB Limited. I am not used to driving an Automatic though it appears I have a loss of power in the Low RPM range. Once to 2500-2800 it picks up. From what I have read it is very possible I have an issue with the knock sensor. The Rebuilt Long Block came with a knock sensor bolted to it. Assuming the knock sensor is matched to the year and type of ECM I move the one from my original Block to the Rebuilt Long Block. Not sure if I should have since I am feeling this lack of power. Of course the one off of the Rebuilt Long Block I removed is currently missing and just swapping it back is not an option. Can someone confirm whether I should have kept the one that came on the Rebuilt Block verses my original Knock Sensor. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 They aren't special - if it plugs into the harness it will work. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 They aren't special - if it plugs into the harness it will work. GD What he said. And it does make them sluggish. But usually it also sets a scannable code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RubyRue Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 No CEL at the moment. Talked to SSI. Said the Knock Sensor didn't make any sense regarding the power loss...? Contradicts what many seem to have experienced on this Forum and others. He mentioned I should check the Timing and make sure the T-Belt is not a Tooth off. Would perform similarly to they way I described and not necessarily pull a code. Have to track down a oil leak dripping off the Oil Pump. Creeping out somewhere behind the T-Belt cover. Just want I want to do on a Newly Installed Rebuilt Engine.... Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 If nothing is throwing a code - I would check the timing first. Definitely want to rule that out. If the KS were bad it would most likely throw a code. Seal failure.... lack of attention to detail on the part of the assembler. That strengthens the argument for the timing being off and makes it easy to justify checking the timing if you are going in there to find that leak. One wonders if these jokers at "SSI" are really doing top-notch work.... why would they use a timing belt that doesn't have white lines on it to line it up with the sprocket marks?...... and if they ARE using such belts what kind of idiot monkey would ignore them and why is he touching anything remotely resembling a wrench? The only reasonable assumptions are that either they used a really cheap belt with no marks and didn't count teeth, or they have monkeys working for peanuts assembling their engines that can't tell a white mark from a brown streak in their underwear..... either way it's not a good sign at ALL to receive an engine that's out of time. Something like that leaving the shop would be immediate grounds for dismissal if I had anything to do with it. I smell refund in the air..... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 if it's leaking oil, does their 3 year warranty come into play? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RubyRue Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 The Rebuilt Engine is supplied with a New T-belt/Wtr Pump, (with markers as I recall..) but with used Idlers and Tensioner. I paid an Extra 250 to get new components installed and lone behold it shows up on Friday of the weekend I planed to swap, after waiting an extra 2 weeks than quoted, and there are USED timing components on the block. (will be getting refunded) So I ordered the Gates PowerGrip Kit from RockAuto and had to wait for it 2 arrive. Dragging the swap out... Since I was the last one to mess with timing that one is on me. Though the new belt had markers and all appeared to be lined up correctly. After check and re-check. Rotated the crank to make sure everything lined back up and so on. I don't think it is timing but I cant rule it out yet. The oil leak would be covered under there warranty. And if I was in there area they would handle the repair. Though lucky them, I'm not. So unless I feel like pulling the engine to ship it back to have the leak fixed, this one will also be on me. I have a pile of photo's and will be doing a full review of SSI when I have the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 I have a pile of photo's and will be doing a full review of SSI when I have the time. Should be interesting. Let us know what you find when you get in there. Pay very close attention to the depth of the cam and crank seals - not just how deep they are but how consistent that depth is around the OD of the seal. Seal life is directly related to how *even* the seal is installed. It must be perfectly perpendicular to the axis of rotation or the seal will not run in a true circle and will have a very short and leaky life. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RubyRue Posted October 30, 2011 Author Share Posted October 30, 2011 HA, not that the car should have been driven home tonight, found a sober driver , but! Finally Pulled a code. Out of town and haven't cracked into the timing cover to investigate the oil leak. Just read a PO325, knock snesor from what i have skimed over in the last 5 minutes. No codes before the swap but possibly damaged during the swap or bad connection? Will see tomorrow.... Really didn't think I messed up the timing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RubyRue Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 Cleaned mating surfaces, cleaned and checked all connectors, put back together and drives great! Should have done that in the first place. Didn't notice anything actually wrong but clearly something was not making a connection or reading the engine knock. Now on to pulling the Timing cover just to inspect the oil leak... oh and the probably adjust the valves on the right side as I have been getting a ticking out of that side since it was fired up directly after installation. Starting cold it is more of a deep rattle that goes away pretty quickly. SSI said adjusted hot on the bench and said to not adjust until after the 1K oil change. How an oil change will fix a miss-adjusted valve that was making noise since square one I'm not sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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