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I got a 2001 outback with a 2.5 that I recently dropped a rod in. So got a used running 2002 2.5 to put in. Now the new motor will not start. I saw it run in the other car. After installing it in my car it will not run. Sputters at best. Swapped out all sensors, throttle body, all wires and electrical parts from my old motor.Still nothing more. Does have erratic spark to cylinders # 3 & 4. Any thoughts ?:horse:

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FIrst of all.

 

Please put a STATE to go with your city.

 

If you're positive it's not the plug wires or coil I have anonther question.

 

Does it run a second or two then die? As in you forgot the stiff pipe that comes out of the empty airbox on the throttle body?

 

Are you getting the codes to say 1&3 or is that a guess?

 

Did you do the timing belt?

 

Welcome to the USMB.

 

Lots of good stuff here and a decent search function.

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Live in VT , New plugs & wires, there are no missing hose's on the intake or air box. There are no codes showing up at all, I used a spark tester that goes in-line on the plug wires to find out the spark issue. Not sure about the coil pack other than they both will work my daughters 98 and it ran fine. Yes I did the timing belt and have double checked that four times now. It will some times fire enough to dis-engage the starter then die. Most of the time it will only fire one or two cylinders then nothing no matter how long you crank it over. Have checked the fuel system for pressure and it is good. Does this help you under stand my confusion ?

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Yea - helps some.

 

Compression check?

 

Originally you left out the fact that you chenged the timing belt. ANd it's easy to get worng (by using arrows) and also easy to not tighten crank bolt enough (a future problem).

 

A compression check will help confirm the TB was done correctly, as well as other potential issues.

 

OEM plugs?

 

Diamond coil pack?

 

 

Fancy plugs or the called for NGK's?

 

Really 1&3 means it's probably got to do with that side head or timing belt actually. If it were electrical (plugs, coil pack, wires) any codes would be 1&2 or 3&4.

 

The reason I asked you to put a useful location in your profile is that often members will stop in and help other members.

Edited by davebugs
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I am leaning towards your having lined up the timing belt wrong. It is so easy to think you positively have it right, when you don't.

 

When you crank the motor with the starter, does the sound from the engine cranking sound normal? If it has a strange looping sound that you have never heard before, then it is an indicator that the timing is not right.

 

When timing is off, it creates the erratic spark that you are having.

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I got a 2001 outback with a 2.5 that I recently dropped a rod in. So got a used running 2002 2.5 to put in. Now the new motor will not start. I saw it run in the other car. After installing it in my car it will not run. Sputters at best. Swapped out all sensors, throttle body, all wires and electrical parts from my old motor.Still nothing more. Does have erratic spark to cylinders # 3 & 4. Any thoughts ?:horse:

 

Timing is correct and compression is well with-in spec at 155-157psi . OEM NGK plugs , stock coil pack . The two cylinders that have the spark issue are numbers 3 & 4 or the two rear most next to fire wall . When cranking it over it sound normal other than random firing of the motor.

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That sounds electrical then if it's opposing cylinders.

 

So go back to plugs, wires, coil pack. I don't know if an ignitor would cause a problem with just 2 cylinders.

 

I do believe I have an ignitor around here that I can't lay my hands on right now.

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Check the crank and cam position sensors.

 

Just as an FYI in the future dont change alot of parts to try to fix somthing all at once, as you can really make things worse. This can make it almost impossible to daignose.

 

If it ran before the swap, that means it is something you did (not meant in a bad way). If you changed the timing belt triple check and make sure you used the right timing marks. Even pros can screw this up.

 

It really sounds like a valve timing issue.

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Does the cam sprocket on the replacement engine have the same number of teeth for the cam position sensor? I have heard that there are multiple versions, though I don't know what years might be different. Compare it carefully to your old engine.

 

Is it possible that you reversed the fuel supply and return hoses? They are right next to each other, at least they are on the earlier Legacies.

 

Good luck.

 

Nathan

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Just clairify things, I only replaced one item at a time.

hankosolder2 thanks for the cam pulley info ! Would have never thought they would have been different. My old motor has 3 windows on the cam gear and the new motor has 5 windows on the cam gear. That explains it . Changed the gear and now it purrs like a kitten ! Thanks for all the help.

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