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stupid people.


AKghandi
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so the guy i got my car from swapped a d/r into it. it had a push 4wd with 3.7 gears because its turbo..the d/r is 3.9 so i swaped the rear diff all went well.. so earlyer today while pulling a justy out of the hole it had been sitting in i noticed what sounds like bad c/v joints in the front. when i got home i checked the c/vs the outer boots and joints are good. so i moved up to the inner boots then i discovered he used the 25 spline c/vs on a 23 spline transmission. and this whole time the only thing keeping my front wheels spinning has been the roll pins.. i saw a post a while ago that said the turbo c/vs are shorter than the non turbo c/vs is this true? or if i buy new c/vs for a non turbo would they just swap right in? and could i remove the front c/vs and make it temporary rwd? i need help. lol

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take out one of the front axles, separate the outer end, and reinstall the outer end, put i 4wd. Then you have rwd wioth lo range for some smokey burnouts. Dont do clutch drops because the pto gears wont like it.

 

get a set of turbo 3at axles as they are the same diameter as the 5spd turbo axle, but have 23 splines.

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yes yes deffinatly! that would be alot of fun this winter i got studs for it so im not too worried about gettin stuck. also does anyone have a write up for the d/r swap? i wanna go through and double check everything this guy did, the clutch doesnt quite feel right.. it might just be a worn cable tho. (239k miles) but more than likely he used the wrong clutch disc or pressure plate or both am i right in assumeing the clutch is different between the turbo and d/r

Edited by AKghandi
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if you watch the Art of Subaru Maintenance series on Fox's youtube pages, it shows the conversion of my car from 3at to 5spd d/r. maybe will give the info you need?

 

i just got the Napa clutch kit that was like $189 or something at the time, my trans has like 220k on it now, and with the new clutch its holding up fine with my ej25 attached to it. the swap has a couple of gremlins to work out but the pressure plate holding isnt one of them. thankfully. LOL.

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thanks much and miles ive watched all your vids. keep it up!

 

 

I dare you to watch the "Miles Fox and the subaru alliance series 1" videos all in a row, all 123 of them, and then the next 25 of them or so that will complete the series.

 

the "Art of subaru maintenance" videos were actually made around a 3at to dual range swap. The idea of doing the swap came first, then the opportunity to make a video of everything else involved came with that.

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i actually watched the art of subaru maintenance series. but it was like 3 am so i dont recall all the info. but i picked up a set of turbo 3at c/vs today now i just gotta put them in anything i need to know that isnt in the hayne/chiltons manuals? i have both..

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should be pretty straight forward. i havent seen those manuals.

 

so you are just swapping DOJ's/inner CVs on the axles? look in the "Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual" part of this website, its got how to break down the axle to replace the boots etc. basically the same process.

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The haynes book does not cover front axles or wheel bearings.

 

eventually i will have a video with axles and wheel bearings since i have shot the tapes, but still need to edit and produce them.

 

you will want to pop the ball joint to change the axles. If you are good, you can do this without removing the brakes. But you will have more wiggle room if you do remove the caliper bracket and the rotor/hub.

 

make sure to install the axle nt and washers correctly. the flat washer is slightly bowl shaped, with the convex side out towards the nut to maintain torque.

 

make sure to line up the axle cup with the roll pun first, before buttoning up the rest. you can slide your pin punch through first to make sure it is lined up, as it only fits one way. otherwise, you would only have half a hole if 180 off by how the splines match the cup.

 

use a 3 lb hammer, a block of wood, and a long pipe.

 

separate the ball joint. slide the pipe over the control arm to push it down to get the stud out of the hole. same for installation.

 

once you pop the ball joint, remove the roll pin on the axle cup. use a 3/16" or 6mm drift punch. Do not use a 1/4" will drive the pin out, but will be permanently stuck!

 

use the block of wood to drive the axle out of the hub.

 

to install the new axle put the outer end through as much as you can, install the bup to the trans stub and install the pin, and then use the block of wood to drive the bub onto the axle enough to thread on the nut.

 

thread the nut down enough to pull the axle through the hub. you will first use the nut only, until there is enough thread to put in the wahsers.

 

the axle will be seated in the hub once you torque the nut down to 145 lb-ft.

 

this is equivalent to a 145lb person standing on a breaker bar., or about 1/4 turn from snug.

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i did not see those last 2 posts thanks for that. i went out and messed with it for a while but it dropped below freezing and was pretty dark so i called it quits good news i dont have a bad wheel bearing a far as i can tell. bad news the guy i got the car from rounded a few very important nuts and bolts so ive got a struggle ahead of me tomorrow. oh and im pretty sure im going to have to drill out the roll pins. i think they're tweaked from being the only things that were spinning my tires(before i knew they we're the wrong ones.) atleast it wont be cold and dark lol

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on a competely unrelated note.. anyone have any experience with a welded rear diff on a daily driver?

 

I've run with one before but I also removed one of the drive shafts while on the black top.

 

But Phizinza has done the same in his 83 project with both shafts in all the time, he'll probably tell you it'll churp corners in the carpark and make carparking a real *************** if you don't have power steering. Also things got lose out back too. PM him, he'll probably tell you what the go was.

 

Here's Project 83 from start to finish.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

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