Steve W. Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 Hi folks. Say, has there been any recent development in the dual-range 4.11 or 4.44 R&P conversion. I've been workin' non-stop, & havn't had time to go searchin'. My daily, is a 88 GL 10 Turbo, with some mods. I've done the 5 lug conv. (late mod. Leg. front, XT6 rear, w/ 240 SX R. calipers, 3" lift, sub frames dropped 1.5", TDO4 W/ Saab 900 TM IC W/ 10" fan, custom header, 3" bellmouth Dn. pipe, 2.5" back. I'm runnin' 16" O.B. wheels, & my Dif. ratios are now so tall, that in the mountains here around Santa Fe. 5th gear is almost useless, & 4th. spins it pretty tight. Any help guys? Thanks S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 31, 2011 Share Posted October 31, 2011 The only way to get 4.111 or 4.444 is to go to the AWD transmission. If you get an EJ dual range from europe you can do it easily - many of them came with 4.11 in the first place. You will lose the 2WD and you will lose the 50/50 torque split but you will gain gearing. The easiest and cheapest way to get good gearing and off-road capability is to swap over to the 4EAT automatic. The torque converter acts like a low range, you can easily get 4.444 final drive from any outback, and you can run them with modded TCU's for paddle shifters as well as stand-alone without a TCU and also you can add a duty-c controller that allows anything between FWD only and full 50/50 lockup for the clutch packs. They handle more power than the 5MT - some of the first 800 to 1000 HP turbo's used the 4EAT - before the 6MT came out it was the only option for big HP. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 To switch a full time 4x4 transmission to 4.11 or 4.44 gears, you have to loose the center diff lock and switch to an EJ style transfer housing and center diff. Just switching to a part time 4x4 transmission should help a lot because you'll jump from 3.7 to 3.9 final drive. The lower low range would help too. You don't loose much going from full time 4x4 to Fwd in normal driving, and in 4x4 it's just like the full time box with the center diff locked. I believe you can take a EA d/r 4x4 box and swap the output shaft, ring, pinion, and transfer housing from an EJ AWD box into it. That would give you the EA bellhousing and low range, with the EJ AWD and final drive gearing. If you use 4.11 gears with a 1.59 low range you need to clearance the ring gear so they don't interfere. Here's a thread of doing the reverse of that, but it shows the parts will interchange pretty easily: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97653 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Posted November 2, 2011 Author Share Posted November 2, 2011 Hi. Thanks guys, I remember reading an old thread some years ago where they, (as I recall,) were switching the 4.11 EJ full gear set into a EA case, using the EJ front diff. section. But then had to cut the input shafts to weld the EA spline section to the EJ shaft. Can't remember who it was, but it seems like they got it to work. The automatic I hadn't considered, tho' I'd hate to give up the dual range. I have, sittin' on the shop floor, the full time EA 3.70 w/ ctr. diff. lock that came in the GL 10 and a EA D/R 3.90, I've run both and had both apart to check em' out. So I have some donor stuff, plus the D/R in my car now. I've got a 2.2 Turbo motor I'm planin' to build as a replacement for the 1.8 when it craters, seems the 4AT in 4.11 or 4.44 mite be the slick set up there. Again, thanks folks. S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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