prolonged T.O.D driving = check engine light!

[l75eya]

Hi all, I'm sure you guys noticed me running around the boards feeding my brain with as much info about the tod as possible lol, still haven't gotten the oil pump changed out yet, and it's been about 3 k of ticking driving now and the check engine light started coming on intermittently, so I looked up how to pull the codes and I've got;

 

in regular mode (no jumpers connected) ign on eng off

code 34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit and that's it.

 

in the mode with the white jumpers connected (stored codes) I've got

34 EGR Solenoid or Circuit

32 Oxygen Sensor or Circuit

11 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit

13 Crank Angle Sensor or Circuit

 

My amateur guess is that the engine is just generally running kinda shi**y through this t.o.d. thing and it's starting to upset some sensors (maybe mixture is bad, real rich possible *shrugs*) but that's just my amateur guess which is why I'm posting up here!

 

I'm wondering what the community thinks is going on here, and also, I'm curious about codes 11 and 13, they are the same. Are they for specific cylinders?

 

Thanks much! Keeping my fingers crossed Old Ben makes it through this ordeal until we can get him fixed proper!

[MilesFox]

code 11 and 13 will exist anytime the key is on, but the engine is not running.

 

i could never seem to get rid of the purge control or egr code. I would just plug off a vacuum line.

 

you can bypass the solenoid with a 33 ohm resistor to cure the code.

 

this would not be TOD related

[l75eya]

Thank you Dr. Will see what sort of fun the car throws at me next! Just got first snowfall and the thermostat temperature control gear got stuck. Driving around in ice and snow shivering, wiping ice off the inside of the windshield from the condensation in my breath. WAS AWESOME!

[idosubaru]

check engine light is not related to TOD.

 

unless the TOD is something abnormal and not "normal" TOD - since TOD isn't super technical. if your TOD is hydraulic valve lash adjuster noise - then it's not causing any of your check engine lights unless there's something really catstrophic going on that's not normal.

 

EGR - clean the valve and lines. probably lots of EGR related information on here if you seach - but since you can't search easily for three letter words that might hinder you.

[WoodsWagon]

SPFI will only set codes for electrical failures, so the EGR code is due to the EGR solenoid burning out. You can use a vacuum solenoid from pretty much any other car and splice it in there. I used one from an 80's cadillac, just because it was handy.

 

The 02 sensor code is because the sensor isn't producing voltage. A new sensor should fix that, and universal one wire ones are dirt cheap new.

 

Both the crank angle codes have to do with the distributor. It's the crank and cam sensor.

 

If it's running really rich, the coolant temp sensor may be going, or the 4" of wiring leading to it may be corroded. That's the 2 wire coolant temp sensor, not the one wire one that runs the gauge.

 

TOD will not do anything as far as the computer is concerned. I had one running with 3 bent rods, and no codes. It was down on power, sure, but it ran fine.

[l75eya]

Thanks for the responses lol, I tell you what, all in all these are magnificent cars to own, but when they do require what little maintenance they just might come to require over time, it is not good to not have the money to fix it haha.

 

This tapping sucks, this car was perfect for the longest time. So low milage too! But thanks for easing my nerves about anything particularly bad occurring that the CEL might have been warning. I'll just electrical tape fix it for now

 

Really, really keeping my fingers crossed that when I get the oil pump and gaskets/seals replaced, that cures the tick.

 

Oh and Mr. Fox, I've been checking out the art of subaru maintenance videos. They are awesome, props to you for taking your own time to produce them. Very, very helpful stuff.