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front wheel drive doesn't work!!


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I have a 91 loyale spfi with push button 4wd. On the front of the car, I recently replaced the lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends, struts, all four wheel bearings, and brake pads. I got everything back together today and when I went to take it for a quick test drive my front wheel drive isn't working. I pushed the clutch in and put it into reverse and noticed I could take the clutch out all the way (while still in gear) and it wouldn't stall. while I did this, I looked at the driver side axel and the transmission cylinder thing was spinning around the axel.there is quite a bit of play where the axel shaft goes into the boot near the transmission. what have I done and how do I fix it?

 

thank you for your feedback in advance. I need to get this fixed soon as this is my winter car and I don't want to drive my mustang in the snow like I have past winters. :dead:

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Just a thought, are you sure the front axle nuts are properly tightened? I believe the torque setting is 140 ft-lbs. If the splines in the hub are worn or the nut is too loose and the splines are not engaged, one axle will spin without moving the wheel.

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If the inner axle joint cup (the "cylinder thing") is spinning but the shaft is not then you have a bad DOJ (Double Offset Joint). Not sure how you could have done that while replacing the components you mentioned but if your description is accurate then clearly there is a problem inside the DOJ. Pull it apart and inspect.

 

GD

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If the inner axle joint cup (the "cylinder thing") is spinning but the shaft is not then you have a bad DOJ (Double Offset Joint). Not sure how you could have done that while replacing the components you mentioned but if your description is accurate then clearly there is a problem inside the DOJ. Pull it apart and inspect.

 

GD

 

before i started maintenance, when I would be accelerating I could hear a noise that is kind of like a bad bearing. my guess is that while pounding everything in and out it finally took a turn for the worst.

 

Is it possible that the axle shaft isn't engaged far enough into the DOJ(I don't know if this is possible on my subaru)? what is the easiest way to get the clamp rings off the boot to inspect?

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How did you go about getting the axle out of the hub? typically we use a press, or a block of wood to drive it out. I could imagine you pulled the knuckle off the axle, which may have pulled the inner part of the axle cup apart.

 

it is more likely that the outer end separated. see if the axle shaft is spinning with the 'cup"

 

the outer end of the axle can be pulled apart as it is held on with a circlip. The inner end has to be disassembled to pull apart, as it is secured with a snap ring. It would take more force to break the snap ring than it would to pop off a circlip.

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How did you go about getting the axle out of the hub? typically we use a press, or a block of wood to drive it out. I could imagine you pulled the knuckle off the axle, which may have pulled the inner part of the axle cup apart.

 

it is more likely that the outer end separated. see if the axle shaft is spinning with the 'cup"

 

the outer end of the axle can be pulled apart as it is held on with a circlip. The inner end has to be disassembled to pull apart, as it is secured with a snap ring. It would take more force to break the snap ring than it would to pop off a circlip.

 

to get the knuckle off, i just pounded on the back of it with a dead blow and after a while it finally came off.

 

Im not sure what you mean by "cup". Im new to doing this indepth work on my car but am learning a lot. :o

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to get the knuckle off, i just pounded on the back of it with a dead blow and after a while it finally came off.

 

Im not sure what you mean by "cup". Im new to doing this indepth work on my car but am learning a lot. :o

 

with your method, it is likely the outer end came separated.

 

the 'cup' i referred to is the DOJ (double offset join" with the 'cup. being the part that contains the joint-the part that slides onto the tranny stub with the roll pin.

 

if the outer end did come separated, you should be able top pop it back together. You may have to remove the axle first.

 

If you pullt he axle again, remove the inner side first, after popping the ball joint, and use a block of wood on the shaft of the axle to drive it through the knuckle.

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On my GL my entire CV joint was spinning, but the car was not moving.

 

In my case the axle nut was "loose" Actually the washers on the axle nut had been installed wrong, or just worn down, either way insufficient pressure was applied and the wheel hub stripped.

 

A junkyard hub (and a lesson on how to properly put the washers... sorry I don't remember how they go, but the "flat" one really is slightly convex) and some new washers and it ran many more miles.

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with your method, it is likely the outer end came separated.

 

the 'cup' i referred to is the DOJ (double offset join" with the 'cup. being the part that contains the joint-the part that slides onto the tranny stub with the roll pin.

 

if the outer end did come separated, you should be able top pop it back together. You may have to remove the axle first.

 

If you pullt he axle again, remove the inner side first, after popping the ball joint, and use a block of wood on the shaft of the axle to drive it through the knuckle.

If the inner axle joint cup (the "cylinder thing") is spinning but the shaft is not then you have a bad DOJ (Double Offset Joint). Not sure how you could have done that while replacing the components you mentioned but if your description is accurate then clearly there is a problem inside the DOJ. Pull it apart and inspect.

 

GD

 

I think I found my problem, after getting the inner boot off I found the wire retainer ring was bent and broken in 2 pieces.

 

Where can I get a new one? And will this fix the problem I am having?

 

 

On my GL my entire CV joint was spinning, but the car was not moving.

 

In my case the axle nut was "loose" Actually the washers on the axle nut had been installed wrong, or just worn down, either way insufficient pressure was applied and the wheel hub stripped.

 

A junkyard hub (and a lesson on how to properly put the washers... sorry I don't remember how they go, but the "flat" one really is slightly convex) and some new washers and it ran many more miles.

 

I made sure to torque down the axel nuts REEAALLYY good. by the time I had finished torquing them the socket on my electric torque gun was very hot to touch.

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I think I found my problem, after getting the inner boot off I found the wire retainer ring was bent and broken in 2 pieces.

 

Where can I get a new one? And will this fix the problem I am having?

 

 

 

IF the ring was broken, and if the joint inside had come out past the cup into the boot, then yes, this very well may be your problem. Make sure the shaft is not spinning and that it is engaged with the outer end.

 

If the outer end had popped out, you can line up the splines and hit the other end of the shaft with a mallet to pop it in before installing the doj cup.

 

The ring may be included with an axle boot kit, but it may not be as well. You could probably find one if you know your part numbers. There are a few different styles of axle cups, so you will want to go by fwd, 4wd, turbo or non, 3at or 4eat, any combination of that, to find the right one versus year or model.

 

There are bands on the outer end of the axle shaft that will identify a fwd, 4wd, or turbo axle. There is a 23 spline axle cup, and a 25 spline axle cup. overall, there are 2 if not 3 sizes of axle cups across about 20 years of manufacture

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