c0r3f1ght3r Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Heres a pic of my passenger side shock tower, not sure when it happened but one of the bolts is missing its head, and they are pretty rusted... as far most of the underneath of this damn thing... I'm debating using that vht rust converter, because unfortunately I have no metal working skills, no welder, nor a grinder... any idea what size that bolt is? this is the driver side, rust... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 12mm x 1.25 thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c0r3f1ght3r Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 thanks fox, any thoughts on the vht rust converter, someone said its pointless, but I've heard otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 If the metal is not rusted throuhg, you can treaet it to preserve it. But if ther eare rust holes, you would be wasting product, unless you cut out the edges of the rust and patch in some sort of metal. I would go with por-15. you can basically wire wheel or sand off the rust, and paint this stuff on. This is best worth doing if you are removing parts first, for better access. You can treat the rust with a converter to seal it up. It would be best to make an effort to clean it up very well, treat, and then paint. putting it on by itself would not be as effective. Then use a product like napa stone guard. Not the 'rubberized undercoating', but the $15 dollar can of the good stuff that smells like candy, and is very similar to what is already on the front valence and rocker sills from the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 the easy fix that i'd do is to not even bother trying to remove that bolt shank, leave it there. drill and tap the existing bolt shank for a smaller thread - like an M8x1.25 bolt - maybe you could even fit an M10 or M9 1.25 in there? just straight drill right into the remaining bolt (after grinding it flat if you want). then tap it, then install a smaller bolt with washers and lock nut to clamp on the strut mount. easy fix. i've done it before, not on a strut bolt but that's exactly what i'd do here. make sure to get a high grade bolt, not a box store special. that strut isn't going anywhere - proven by it's current situation. :D:D if for some reason you're still compelled to get the bolt out - use high quality left handed drill bits, you'll probably need to get them online unless you have a good local supplier. the left hand turning motion of the drill bit, heating/expanding of the drilling operation, will eventually back it out as you increase the bit size to near bolt size. don't use an ezout - never in a million years will it work on that bolt. it'll shear off inside of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c0r3f1ght3r Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 I'm going to attempt to PB blast it, take the other bolt out and move the strut away and try to use vice grip to get the broke bolt out, wire brush the hell of it, rust convert, and then por 15. Eventually I'll get another car and tear this brat apart and fix all the rust etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red92 Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 .. wire brush the hell of it, rust convert, and then por 15. I think generally it is advised to use the POR-15 directly over the rust, without using a rust converter product first (other than an etching prep)... The reason being that POR-15 works by bonding to the rough rusty metal and "sealing" it with a hard protective layer to prevent further oxidation, and the rust converter products can artificially smooth out the metal surface and prevent good adhesion of the POR-15. Not saying that you shouldn't use it... as it seems to work for Miles... but that's just what I've read. For what it's worth, I've used POR-15 directly over rusty metal with great results, so I'd definitely recommend the product. My oldest use was over 10 years ago now, and still looks great. Also, note that POR-15 is UV sensitive... so it really does need a topcoat of some kind (paint, or some sort of undercoat as Miles suggested). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 I'm going to attempt to PB blast it, take the other bolt out and move the strut away and try to use vice grip to get the broke bolt out, Some previous owner broke that bolt using a breaker bar. Do you seriously believe you can loosen it with a pair of Vicegrips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 worst comes to worst, grindd it of with a cutting wheel, grind it down flat with a grinding wheel, and drill it out. a 7/16 but will be remarkably close in size that you can probably pick out hte rest of the bolt as the threads will only rmain, and possibly salvage them by chasing through a die or a new bolt. Start with a smaller bit. a 4-1/2" angle grinder is your friend for this job, with sanding flapper wheels, grinding wheels, and wire wheels. Go for the knotted wire wheel. This will remove any undercoating that has rust behind it so you can treat it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 I'm going to attempt to PB blast it, take the other bolt out and move the strut away and try to use vice grip to get the broke bolt out,don't waste your time - there are few things i'll say with 100% certainty - but that bolt will not come out with a pair of vice grips. that is fact, i would not waste your time. i take that to mean you don't have much rusty/corroded fastener experience in which case i'd lean heavily on the experience of others that do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Here is a video about removing a sheared ball joint pinch bolt. The techniques illustrated here may be helpful for you http://www.youtube.com/user/MilesFox#p/c/FD039C4C1234B88C/8/qCy6sj74EIo (mild language warning) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c0r3f1ght3r Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 Here is a video about removing a sheared ball joint pinch bolt. The techniques illustrated here may be helpful for you http://www.youtube.com/user/MilesFox#p/c/FD039C4C1234B88C/8/qCy6sj74EIo (mild language warning) Good video. Yeah I figure by the looks of it that it would be very hard to get it out with vice grips, but I guess I'm just going to have to leave it as is... because I don't have a shop or any power tools as such shown in the video, since its been that way since I've owned the vehicle I don't really see a point in messing with it... because I've done a lot of off roading hitting hard bumps and such. It the other bolt never breaks I don't have to worry about it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Good decision. That bolt is designed not to easily loosen. Have removed a few over the years and every one has fought me all the way out. Sort of like rear axle U-bolts under car/trucks with solid rear axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Mine come right out on my 85 BRAT. I just untorque them a turn and spin them out with my fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 I have never been able to do that over the 15 years I have fooled with this. The bolts I have worked with even fight me going in. Have always believed these bolts have the same type of threads used on rear axle U-bolts which are supposed to be used only once and then replaced. But maybe you have bionic figures whereas I don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 You should be fine leaving it alone, until you need to replace the shock. At least the ea81 is torsion sprung, so there is no load bearing on the shock other than dampening. If it was missing, this would not affect ride height, but it would b e a bouncy ride! Compared to an ea82, that if you removed the coilover, the suspension would be collapsed, or the mount may shift around being secured by 1 bolt. I have had an ea82 or 2 with a missing coilover bolt without problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 (edited) The bolt will come out. First, find a quality rust penetrant. I'm partial to Yield since I know it works. Kroil is 2nd best. PB Blaster isn't much better than WD-40 (next to worthless for this). This also requires patience. Soak the bolt area on the front and backside with rust penetrant four or five times. Let the penetrant soak in for at least 10 minutes before the next application. Sometimes it's best to wait 1/2 hour between soaks. Next, you'll find that the bolt used is usually 1/2 inch or more too long for the job. The far end of the bolt extends out the back of the fender area where it's bolted and is subject to all the rain, salt and stuff for the last 100K miles or more and is rusty. With the rust, the thread diameter is larger than the nut portion and that's why it often breaks off when someone tries to remove it with brute force and no rust penetrant. The trick here is to let it soak for a while with the rust pentrant, then with a pair of visegrips grab the front portion of the bolt and wiggle it back and forth to break loose the rusted portion inside the nut portion. Don't rush it since this still needs some patience and maybe more rust penetrant. Once the threaded portion has broken the rust and you can see the broken end turning when you wiggle the visegrip tool, then continue to turn the broken bolt clockwise (just like it would go with a new bolt when you're installing your new shocks). Keep turning in that direction until the bolt section comes out the other side. Remember, you're screwing the broken piece IN not OUT. I've done a number of these this way when I broke off the bolt because I was too impatient to let the penetrant do its job. Worst comes to worst, you can always drill out the broken piece and re-tap the hole using the same size tap as the original bolt. The nut portion is hardened steel and will accept the tap as soon as the threads find their way. Yield is made by ChemSearch in Texas. If I remember correctly GD had posted a "group buy" opportunity a short time ago. Maybe he still has a can or two to sell. Don't expect it to sell for the same price as a similar sized can of WD-40. We buy the Yield by the box of 12 from ChemSearch where I work for around $16/can. It's pricey but it does the job better than anything else I've ever found. Edited November 12, 2011 by edrach Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 Mine come right out on my 85 BRAT.I just untorque them a turn and spin them out with my fingers. You're fortunate that the previous owner likely installed stainless steel bolts as well as using neverseeze to keep them from rusting in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 Or he's got a low rust car like my dl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 Or he's got a low rust car like my dl. yep, Low mileage CA BRAT. I had them out to put my lift kit on, and applied generous amounts of antiseize. I had them out again to remove lift kit and install the new KYG Gas adjusts, again applied antiseize. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 yep, Low mileage CA BRAT. I had them out to put my lift kit on, and applied generous amounts of antiseize. I had them out again to remove lift kit and install the new KYG Gas adjusts, again applied antiseize. I knew there had to be a reason that they would come out so easily. Smart move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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