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ea82 spfi codes 34 and 35


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Just did head gaskets on 94 loyale spfi. Broke the top of the purge solenoid and have replaced with 2 different used solenoids to no avail. Clear codes both by plugging greens and clears and ign on and then off as well as battery disconnect methods not working. Comes back immediately or after short test drive each time.

 

Can anybody tell me what electrical tests I can do on solenoids to verify good?

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Just went through this on my SPFI swapped EA81. Ended up going through a pile of them before I found a couple good ones (I get the feeling these solenoids are NOT reliable).

 

Just apply power and ground to each solenoid and see it it audibly clicks. If it does, see it it holds and vents vacuum by blowing in one end with a short piece of vacuum hose.

 

You could also adapt an EGR solenoid (should work for purge too) from a late model Ford or just about anything else with a similar coil resistance (sorry, can't remember what it is off hand - maybe 16-33 ohms?) If both solenoids test good then I would suspect a wiring or ECM problem.

 

Good Luck

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This is a good permanent fix, however the compression in my EA81 is quite high and I run a lot of timing advance (in the order of 28 degrees with a Delta cam) combined with more fuel pressure I actually need the EGR to help keep cylinder temps down

 

For a stock engine I agree, just go with the resistors and be done with it.

 

They should have 35 ohms of resistance. You can replace them with 5 watt resistors of similar value

 

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EGR doesn't do anything at WOT - it is only in operation at part throttle cruise (to reduce NOx emissions durring cruise) so it can't affect max cylinder temps under WOT pulls. If it were in effect durring WOT it would displace valuable mixture in the cylinders and rob performance.

 

If you need to drive cylinder temps down you need more fuel or meth injection. What are your EGT temps now? Do you have an accurate EGT temp gauge setup?

 

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EGR doesn't do anything at WOT - it is only in operation at part throttle cruise (to reduce NOx emissions durring cruise) so it can't affect max cylinder temps under WOT pulls. If it were in effect durring WOT it would displace valuable mixture in the cylinders and rob performance.

 

If you need to drive cylinder temps down you need more fuel or meth injection. What are your EGT temps now? Do you have an accurate EGT temp gauge setup?

 

GD

 

No I don't have any accurate EGT readings yet, but you are 100% correct increasing the fuel pressure did help - perhaps even more than the EGR now that you mention it:clap: I don't think I can really squeeze any more HP/Torque out of this poor little EA81 anyway, but it sure is fun to drive:D

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I had an EGT gauge and a wideband 02 on my EA81 (stock) hatch with a Weber just for giggles and to see how accurate the "base" Weber jetting was for the EA81's. I found it to be quite good actually - my mixture was perfect and my EGT's were about 1100 to 1200* F. Didn't have to change a thing about the jetting - probably why the Weber is such a popular upgrade for the EA's - if much rejetting had to be done it would be beyond a lot of people's abilities and would be much less popular.

 

I have also used both gauges on a custom turbo-charged Suzuki Samuria with an o-ringed 8:1 block running 10 psi from a VF-7..... the EGT's on that are about 1600* F. Our plan is to convert it to Mega-Squirt.... right now it's running a blow-through setup with a DGV Weber. :-p

 

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Shawn, make sure that you are getting 12 volts to those solenoids when they are supposed to be turned on. The trouble my be with the supply to the solinoids rather than the solenoids themselves. As already stated, checking the resistance of the coil will verify if it is ok or not. It should show a fairly low resistance normally.

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