tallwelder81 Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 if i build a lift for my brat, does the front strut lift NEED to be the same as the front crossmember lift? to put it another way, if i lift the front 3 inches, do i need to drop the crossmember 3 inches? or can i drop the xmember 2 inches instead, and thus gain an inch of ground clearance? someone, not to be named, told me that works? im not trying to call BS on them. i just want to be 110% certain that is okay?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sube101 Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 (edited) its alright man it was me whom told ya. only because i have been drivin that way in my brat for quite a few miles. but i am curious to what other people say. hoping things are decided before i get to welding the strut pieces for ya. ill holp off on those till sunday for you, cheers Edited November 12, 2011 by sube101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 It is doable. If the upper strut mounts are pushed INWARD far enough you can do it without any major alignment issues. Just make certain you do not bind the coil springs on the strut towers. Doing this will also effectively narrow the track width of the front tires a bit too. So if you had any inner fender rubbing issues before, it may get worse (unless the lift is great enough to fix that problem) That said, your CV joints will hate you if you do not drop the subframe with the struts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tallwelder81 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Share Posted November 16, 2011 (edited) this is the basic idea then, yea? <sorry for stealing your brat pic, mcbrat>. if you cant find 2.5" tube, maybe you could just combine 2" and 1/2"? i know, im sorry, pain in the backside. im just real shy on the CV angle situation. the straighter they sit, the safer i will feel. i figure, even a HALF inch extra clearance for my oil pan, etc, will help me out a ton. also, i have a skid plate, for the LONG style bullbar. its mild steel, lots of surface rust, and heavier than a Vespa. it gets the job done, pleeeenty strong. but it is designed for a stock suspension. i doubt it can even be FORCED to work for a 3 inch front lift. how much would it cost to get a nice clean aluminum plate made? good quality aluminum. maybe... 1/4" thick. with like 8 or 12 small < 1" > ventholes, and a big 3" drain plug access hole? is that a possibility? i bet if you went to the trouble of making one for ME, lots of other guys would be interested also. Edited November 16, 2011 by tallwelder81 adding pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sube101 Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 well I. Couldn't find 2.5 but I cut some 3x2 so that it would remain all stock. And it would depend on the demesions of the plate. At the moment our running water jet can only fit 24 x40 sheets our big water jet is currently down. And if there is any bending for the skit plate I couldn't do it. I have I don't have any machines to bend sheet metal or plate yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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