BlackBoot Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 I know many have drilled steel rims, but what about alloy? I got a set from a Toyota but I'm wondering about compromising the strength of the alloy vs. Steel. Any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 NO.Drill the hubs for 6 lug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBoot Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 (edited) I know about drilling the hubs, but economy of effort involved, seems like it would be easy on the bits drilling alloy, but would it compromise the strength of the rim? Multi fit alloys have multiple holes, and the thickness of the alloy is much more than steel. Also I'm not planning on jumping anything so will the stress be that great? Edited November 21, 2011 by BlackBoot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 The multifit alloys or whatever they're called were designed to work like that. Do not drill alloys. Trade them for some steel rims, I bet you could get some cash in the deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBoot Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 So, drill the hubs to 6 bolt, or trade for steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 So, drill the hubs to 6 bolt, or trade for steel. absolutely!! I drilled all 4 hubs for my brat with the same drill bit. The key was a drill press (I was using the el-cheapo Northern Tool benchtop model) and lots of WD-40. Even with lots of lubrication, I broke 3 drill bits before I even got halfway through the first hole trying to do it by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBoot Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 I thought drilling alloy was a shady idea, that's why I asked for advice. So 6 bolt conversion for the hubs it is! But what about wheel studs, type and size? I have a full set of nuts and center caps from the Toyota tundra, I'd like to use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 (edited) I found it was easier to with a hand drill. Go buy a couple 3/16" drill bits and use these as pilot bits, get something decent here, no harbor freight bits. This will make your bigger 31/64" bit last for the whole job. I used transfer punches($10 at harbor freight) to mark my hole centers and then I used another punch to make the divot bigger to help get the bit started. The key is to keep the RPM's of the drill low, about 100-250 rpm. If the chips are blue or brown, slow down and use more wd-40. Going fast will burn up your bits. I start on a puddle of wd-40 and then give it a good healthy shot half way through with the bit stopped, so it can puddle in the hole. The wd-40 will smoke as you drill and thats ok. IIRC toyota used a 12x1.50mm stud, but your alloys may need something different. A mismatched lugnut/stud combo can be very bad so make sure you get the right ones. I'd trade those alloys on a set of steelies, but still upgrade to a 6 lug, so you can use any 6 lug down the road, and not a modified one. Alloys aren't as strong as steelies and when abused offroad( or sometimes just taken offroad) they break... literally. A buddy of mine had 2/3's of his bead break off when bound up on a rock. With steelies, you can use the stock subaru studs and even get more from the JY if your on a budget. Edited November 21, 2011 by El Presidente Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 they do make thread cutting oil, it is lots better than wd-40.... if you are gonna do hubs, it would be well worth the investment to have some around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) yes, toyota uses a 12x1.5 thread pitch. Something you have to look into, is since the rotors bolt to the back of the hubs, the studs need to be pretty short. My brat was 6-lugged when I bought it, but the PO used standard EJ studs, and the nuts bottomed out on the threads before they even touched the wheels, which promptly stripped out the studs in the hub, so I had to completely start over. I found a stud (dorman 610378) designed for a nissan that's still 12x1.25 like the subaru but shorter knurl, which means the threads go down further, which makes it work even with the toyota steelies (the thicker alloy wheels will not have this problem as badly). Also, I used a 35/64 bit. Had to order it online....but it was perfect. Did them all with a center punch, but no pilot hole. Edited November 22, 2011 by Numbchux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Also, I used a 35/64 bit. Had to order it online....but it was perfect. Did them all with a center punch, but no pilot hole. I mentioned the wrong size earlier. The subaru studs use a 35/64" too right? I think I ended up using the same nissan studs you did now that you mention it... they do make thread cutting oil, it is lots better than wd-40.... if you are gonna do hubs, it would be well worth the investment to have some around. Don't use thread cutting oil!, its not designed for high speed cuts. Some kinds also release some narly toxic stuff when its burned...A9 is an example, some new guys at my old work used this to drill some holes in steel and all 5 need to go to the hospital. If you want to do it right use a machining oil like Castrol safety-draw, it literly moves to the heat were it needs to be. I recommended WD-40 because it works, its cheap, and everybody has it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 hmmm always have good luck with this stuff http://www.farmshopstore.com/misticmetal.html mistic metal mover. i like the smell of it too. Hope that is not what you had bad luck with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 hmmm always have good luck with this stuffhttp://www.farmshopstore.com/misticmetal.html mistic metal mover. i like the smell of it too. Hope that is not what you had bad luck with. Sounds like cool stuff. The stuff that should never be used for drilling is A9, its a thread cutting fluid for aluminum. Theres warnings all over it, but FNG's are FNG's. It works absolutely the best for aluminum tapping though. I've heard of similair problems with other thread cutting fluids used at high temps, but I can't remember any others specificly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBoot Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 I was wondering about the wd40, years ago in the army an fng lubed his light machine gun with it, worked great until it reached its flashpoint and immediately lit up, went dry and seized up. What's a good source for bits? And is it necessary to get a costly tungsten bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I was wondering about the wd40, years ago in the army an fng lubed his light machine gun with it, worked great until it reached its flashpoint and immediately lit up, went dry and seized up.What's a good source for bits? And is it necessary to get a costly tungsten bit? Thats why wd-40 works, granted its not the best, it lubes the cutting edge and prevents gauling, dissipates heat by burning off(like any other machining lube), and doesn't leave a residue. If the hole your drilling stops smoking, you'd obviously run dry. It also doesn't hurt to over lubricate either. I get my bits from several sources. Of course common fraction sizes can be bought at any hardware store. Uncommon sized fraction, decimal, lettered and numbered bits I get from different industrial suppliers, hardware suppliers, I've had some special order right through my auto parts store for suprizingly a decent price and I've been really surprized by little mom and pop hardware stores. One down the street from my old house had a .040" drill bit IN STOCK when I was doing some carb work...cost me $1.07 with tax! Both Black Oxide and HSS will work, but willn't last as long as say..some of the cobalt blends. Make sure your pilot bits are designed for metal(also known as a chisel point bit) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 yea, WD-40 isn't ideal.....but it's usually what I have (I've even used SeaFoam Deep Creep....), and it's better than nothing. and yea, those nissan studs use the same knurl diameter as EJ and EA82 lug studs.....although the knurl on XT6 studs is smaller. I did a quick search online for the drill bit, and ended up getting it on amazon.com. I just bought the cheapest one of the correct size that I could find :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I was calling all over town last weekend, tryna find a 35/64" or 14mm bit for my 6-lug conversion. Ace Hardware, Lowes, HomeDepot, had jack squat. A couple of the industrial fastener suppliers had 35/64" but it was over $30! Napa Auto Parts had one in stock for $24. But then I happened to call Carquest, who had one in stock for $14! Score! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 wow i must have missed something, i used a 1/2" bit on my steelies. i dont remember if i had to hog the hole or not. its snug, but it fits. also, i did the whole job with my craftsman 19.2v 3/8 drive by hand. wouldve been nice to have a drill press. RV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyfun Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 wow i must have missed something, i used a 1/2" bit on my steelies. i dont remember if i had to hog the hole or not. its snug, but it fits. also, i did the whole job with my craftsman 19.2v 3/8 drive by hand. wouldve been nice to have a drill press. RV Are you talking about drilling rims or hubs? Sorry, I was referring to the bit for drilling my hubs out to accept 14mm studs. But either way, 1/2" is smaller than the 14mm studs, which are about 0.55", so you must have had to hog them out a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 ahhh. my blasted lack of attention span has caused me to miss that part. apparently i always assume i know what im talking about. i drilled my wheels. i was wondering why it was so easy for me. damn, im not a superhero RV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sifu Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 Along this line of thinking, I have an alloy rim that is a little warped...any ideas on how to straighten it out? I don't really have much of a problem, but the upsellers that did my tires seemed to... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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