Can Hub Tamer Do This? & HF#

[BEDFORDSUBARU]

Hi, I need to do front wheel bearings on my 97 Outback Station Wagon with ABS. I've read the threads here, some of which reference Hub Tamer, as well as a reasonably priced alternative front end tool kit from Harbor Freight.

My Questions:

1) Will either or both equip me to press the hub out of the knuckle. If yes, will does the knuckle first need to be removed from the car?

2) If these tools will not press the hub out of the knuckle, anyone have a suggestion for a tool that would?

3) While several threads here have referenced the Harbor Freight tool kit, I have not seen any that provide the product number or specific name. Can someone let me know the number?

-------Thanks for all and any help. If anyone has any hints/suggestions/warnings on various aspects of the job (or links to videos that show the job being done) that is also very greatly appreciated.

Enjoy your Thanksgiving! Greg

[Rooster2]

I, and a friend replaced my right front wheel bearing on my 99 OBW last summer using Harbor Freight's version of the Hub Shark or Hub Tamer. Harbor Freight calls their product the U.S. General Front Wheel Bearing Adapters, item #66829.

Their system is a large set of circular plates with a threaded center with a large bolt that threads to the center of the correct size circular plate. Yes, the system works okay. I think Hub Shark and Hub Tamer work the same way. The difficult part is removing the outer race which will remain with the hub when the bearing is pushed out. The race is pressed in really tight, and can be a struggle to remove.

 

My buddy moved away, so he is no longer available to work with me on any future wheel bearing replacements.

 

I will gladly sell you my kit that has been used just once for $50, if you pay the freight. Send me a private message if interested.

[Mike104]

Here is a link to doing the job on a rear (similar to front) with the HF kit:

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1925081

 

Here is another way to remove the hub (part of the bearing will come with the hub). You can rent (purchase and return) these tools from some auto parts stores:

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30892335&postcount=44

 

Some recommend replacing the hub (the part with the studs to mount the wheel) when you put new bearings in as it is possible for the old hub to damage the new bearing and fail early.

 

The first link gives you a method to remove the outer bearing from the hub using a bearing separator.

Edited November 22, 2011 by Mike104

[BEDFORDSUBARU]

Thanks for the replies and information and links. All greatly appreciated. Today I bought seeming good used assembled knuckle/hub/bearing units, one for each front side. Tomorrow I will try to swap the driver unit one with the one in my car. That seems like a fairly simple job (I know, don't ever say that) which should minimize down time for the car. With the car then back on the road I will then take my time dismantling the removed unit and putting in new bearings, etc.

 

From what I could tell from your replies and links, its seems like the answer to one of my questions is NO, the Harbor Freight Bearing kit (66829?) can not be used to separate the hub from the knuckle, with the hub/knuckle still in the car. Sounds like you need the slide hammer tool to do that. Please let me know either way if my understanding is correct.

 

As far as using the slide hammer while the hub is in the car, I tried to envision what parts may get stressed each time the slide takes place. It seems it would be at the points that secure the hub to the car, especially the control arm ball joint and the steering arm ball joint. If true, I wonder if there any chance of damaging the joints when using the slide hammer this way. This ever been discussed?

 

Thanks again for your 2 feedbacks. It will make my job much easier and is greatly appreciated!

 

Greg.

[BEDFORDSUBARU]

Correction to my last post: I meant to say:

 

As far as using the slide hammer while the hub is in the car, I tried to envision what parts may get stressed each time the slide takes place. It seems it would be at the points that secure the KNUCKLE (not the hub) to the car, especially the control arm ball joint and the steering arm ball joint. If true, I wonder if there any chance of damaging the joints when using the slide hammer this way. This ever been discussed?

 

Thanks again, Greg

[Caboobaroo]

I use a slide hammer to pop the hub out of the knuckle/bearing assembly while its in the car. Then I remove the ABS ring, use a press and a clamshell to press the inner race off along with the bearing from the knuckle.

 

Only time you need to replace the hub is when the section that presses into the bearing is damaged, either from removal or from the inner race spinning on it.

 

If you can get the knuckle off, some shops don't charge that much to press them out and in. Most labor time comes from removal and installation of the knuckle. But don't forget you'll need to get an alignment afterwards as you'll be messing with the camber adjustment.

[Rooster2]

I use a slide hammer to pop the hub out of the knuckle/bearing assembly while its in the car. Then I remove the ABS ring, use a press and a clamshell to press the inner race off along with the bearing from the knuckle.

 

Only time you need to replace the hub is when the section that presses into the bearing is damaged, either from removal or from the inner race spinning on it.

 

If you can get the knuckle off, some shops don't charge that much to press them out and in. Most labor time comes from removal and installation of the knuckle. But don't forget you'll need to get an alignment afterwards as you'll be messing with the camber adjustment.

 

 

If you score marks on components, it is not necessary to get an alignment. Just make sure all scored (scratched) components are reassembled so the score lines match up. Not difficult to do.