disciplejohn52 Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 (edited) I am looking at buying a Subaru for commuting to work. I want a vehicle that is reliable, fuel efficient, and has all-wheel or four-wheel drive (automatic, not stick), since I live in a hilly area that is darn near impossible to get to/from when it snows. I settled on Subarus largely because of the symmetrical AWD layout, and the good gas mileage and reliability. Are there any Subarus more or less reliable than others? I have heard some talk about the reliability of the automatics in certain (non-Forester, I believe) models...something about overheating, I think. I'm going to be looking in the higher-mileage range of cars (read: cheaper, $2000-4000 or less). Any help would be appreciated! Edited November 26, 2011 by disciplejohn52 clarification of price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 The 2.2 engine is far and away the battle tank of the Subaru engines, and is the most sought after for sheer reliability. The 2.5s are not bad, but they have the reputation for eating up head gaskets; especially if they've been done improperly. I would look for a 95 or newer Legacy wagon with the 2.2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 the EJ22 - 90 thru 96 are non interference - no damage if a timing belt lets go also, for the auto AWD models - slightly better fuel mileage than you will get out of a 2.5 have a 1990 LS wagon, auto, AWD and get around 27-28 mpg average, slightly less in the winter months, slightly more on freeway runs. depending on wher you live, you should be able to pick up a very nice one for the money you are looking to spend. just be aware that those model years there were FWD only cars available - so if AWD is a must for you, make sure you are getting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 (edited) not much to add, what has been said is pretty solid. If you are at all concerned with good gas milage, then do not get a turbo'd car. They use more gas, are high performance vs economy, and the gas they require is premium, so higher pump price. Please post on here what you look at. The 98 Forester, and 98-99 outbacks will have a DOHC 2.5 EJ25 engine, and that one eats headgaskets for breakfast lunch and dinner, and desert. Now, just saying that to caution you to look for maintenance history on the headgaskets on those DOHC engines. They are still okay engine if they have been repaired and new Subaru oem headgaskets installed before showing the signs. You do not want one that has been repaired with autozone, napa, fel pro etc, Head Gaskets. you also do not want one that has not been headgasketed', cause if you are paying 4grand you can get ones that are done right. So please post as much info you can at what you go look at before jumping the gun. Too many come on here only after purchasing one and its the same ole same ole.......cold heat, loosing coolant, overheat after 30 minute drive, etc. My family (parents and brother have the dreaded DOHC engines) but they have caught them in time and did maintenance to the T using all Subaru made parts. Proper torqque, etc. I expect both those cars to run another 150k before needing the headgaskets addressed again, but then he cars will have 300k+. Edited November 27, 2011 by bheinen74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 the early 90-94 legacy's and impreza's are tops for reliability and ease/cost of maintenance. if you don't overheat or run out of oil the EJ18 and EJ22's will likely outlast other components of the vehicle. 300,000 miles is not a big deal - of course you'll need gaskets and seals by that time, but that's generally simple stuff. i like to get an older subaru and replace all the timing pulleys and tensioner, water pump, and reseal the oil pump and cam seals. at 15 or so years old they are all needing replacement in my opinion for high mileage reliability. and of course standard tune up stuff like plugs, wires, and replace trans and diff fluids. none of the auto transmissions are problematic at all with two exceptions that won't apply to you: the SVX and 1999 vehicles, both of which are unlikely to be on your radar screen. if you fall in love with a 99 just ask about the trans issue or search for "delay engagement". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Look for a nce example of a first generation legacy. Also, the earliest imprezas came with 1.8 and FWD for 30mpg economy. For your price, make sure you get a good clean example. You can find the same cars for the $1000-1500 mark depending on overall condition. Generally a car with higher mileage reflects service has been done to it to last that long, whereas lower mile cars are closest to any service interval required by its upcoming mileage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciplejohn52 Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 Looking at a 1993 Legacy L awd wagon, 163,000 miles, mechanic owned til one year ago, inherited by son. Comes with extra set of wheels w/snowtires. looks mostly dry around the engine, a tiny little oil on top of the cylinder heads, but not enough to drip off...no ticking, knocking, etc. 2.2L. complete service records. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Looking at a 1993 Legacy L awd wagon, 163,000 miles, mechanic owned til one year ago, inherited by son. Comes with extra set of wheels w/snowtires. looks mostly dry around the engine, a tiny little oil on top of the cylinder heads, but not enough to drip off...no ticking, knocking, etc. 2.2L. complete service records. How much? Sounds like a good solid DD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prwa101 Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I bought about a year ago a 2000 forester 5 speed for 2700$ AWD 2.5, im getting about 25-27.5MPG, i love the thing! and to top that in the snow it will just about go anywhere, i could out snow my friends lifted SUZU Sammari, and im running it stock. Best 4wd ive had so far, i do like the loyales and GLs with the push buttons though, saves on milage.. some people say the 2.5 isnt reliable BUT mine is pushing 240k and still running strong! The older 2.2 90-95 are a good way to go though. even with a higher mileage car as long as you do the oil and keep up on maintenance they can last for ever. Good luck guy! Prwa AAE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 bought my 90 LS wagon with 152,000 on it - it is now up to 226,000 plus and still going strong. Would not hesitate on that 93 if the price is right - especially considering it has full maintenance records! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciplejohn52 Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 $1900 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 fair price between 1500 and 2000 if there is no rust. offer 1750 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I would avoid any Subaru with a 2.5L engine manufactured before MY 2002. Why? That leaves out all the DOHC 2.5L engines, which were plagued with internal head gasket failures. That also leaves out the early SOHC engines, many of which had a probelm with less serious external head gasket failures. The trouble with a used Subaru is you that usually don't know how the previous owner responded to a head gasket failure. Did he immediately pull off to the side of the road and have the car towed to the dealership where the car was repaired with genuine Subaru head gaskets. Or, did he repeatedly overheat the engine and try to "get by" for as long as he could? ALWAYS BE SUSPECIOUS OF A FAILED HEAD GASKET WHEN BUYING A USED SUBARU. It's often very difficult to tell when a Subaru has a blown head gasket. Very often, a test drive will NOT disclose a Subaru head gasket failure. Tons of people on this website have been tricked into buying a used Subaru with a blown head gasket. Carefully inspect the engine block for coolant, or oil, leaks. Run the car for an extended period and then test the coolant for exhaust gases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 (edited) $1900 All things being equal, and a lack of rust on the vehicle, yeah, that would be a "fair" price. average resale value will range from 1600 to 2300 for that year & model, depending on condition, of course. If it were showroom perfect, it would be slightly higher, if it is a rustbucket from h-e-double toothpicks...you get the idea... As Miles has suggested, knock a couple hundred off the initial offer, and see what happens. sometimes with hard, cold cash in hand, a slightly lower offer is acceptable to the seller. But it needs to be cash - no checks, no money orders, not even a cashiers check - hard, cold, CASH. Edited September 9, 2012 by heartless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 get a nice 80-84 wagon bulletproof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciplejohn52 Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 how much? Sounds like a good solid dd. dd? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 dd? dd = daily driver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciplejohn52 Posted September 10, 2012 Author Share Posted September 10, 2012 Well I bought it. Seems to be doing ok so far. One question- (it's an automatic) There's a "Manual" button on the gear shift. I read the instructions in the manual, but it was kinda vague. Does this have any real practical value. (I won't be off-roading, this is mostly for snow) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 the oil on the top of the cylinder head sounds strange to me, but suspect it must have looked benign for you to overlook it. as for the button..i'd call it not that practical...seems like if it was they would have retained it more commonly? from wiki The transmission had a feature where it could be instructed to ignore 1st gear from a standing stop to assist driving on traction limited situations, such as ice and snow. The system was activated by depressing a button on the gearshift selector marked "Manual" and moving the gearshift from the "D" position down to "3rd". A yellow indicator light marked "Manual" also lights up at the bottom center of the instrument cluster when the system is ready to be used. The car would then start in 2nd gear, and not 1st, then as the car gained speed would shift up to 3rd, locking out 4th gear. The transmission's computer also splits the delivered torque 50:50 between the front and rear wheels. Once the car stopped, the transmission would start back in 2nd and not 1st, until the system was disengaged with the "Manual" button or upshifting to 4th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciplejohn52 Posted September 11, 2012 Author Share Posted September 11, 2012 the oil was the power steering pump. has a slight leak. will be r/r soon. And thanks for that better description of the manual button. Makes sense now. I just want to take this opportunity to thank everyone's effort during this buying/getting to know Sub's process. It was greatly appreciated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disciplejohn52 Posted September 13, 2012 Author Share Posted September 13, 2012 So I'm now the owner of a 1993 Legacy L AWD wagon, 2.2L, 163,000 miles. Anyone tell me anything I need to know, good or bad, about this year/model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 The early legacy's are a pleasure to own. I have owned 2 of them at this point. My first being a 92 LS auto with 230k and I now have traded that for a 92 L (was auto now a five speed) with 200k both have been super reliable. They are truly great cars. I really can't think of a down fall to them except for maybe the auto seat belts (you get used to them they never really bothered me to begin with) and in the salt belt they do like to rust, but so does everything else... You should have a good car that will last you a long time if well taken care of! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 First and foremost - Tires must be matching all the way around, and within 1/4 inch in circumference (around the tread) of each other to prevent damage to the transmission. This means when you need tires, you MUST buy all four at one time. There is also a specific procedure for when/if you get a flat tire & need to use the donut spare - if you have the owners manual, it will be detailed in that. Other than that, keep track of your fluids - oil, coolant, trans fluid, gear oil, etc, & make a note of when the timing was done last. Take care of it, and it will take care of you. I love my AWD wagon. It has gone thru some amazingly deep snow over the last few years - stuff that even I had my doubts about (hard packed, wind driven drifts more than 18" deep in places) - but it made it thru, got me home safe and sound. And my avatar - hehe, that is my car's engine bay PACKED full of wind blown snow - and it would start & run like that, until it started to warm up & got things wet that shouldnt be wet. Took me nearly 3 days to get it all out, and everything dried out, but have not had any major problems from it because of that incident. Had to put it in FWD mode the other day to get a flat fixed - it was weird driving it that way! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 have the brakes inspected and silicone lube the slide pins and the boots for longevity. do this twice a year if you can do it yourself. brakes are easy on this car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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