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Info needed on what parts to buy for a 2004 timing belt change ,


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Hi all going to do the timing belt very shortly on the wife 2004 LGT i know of the timing kits with all of the pullies and water pump, what else do i need to change when I'm in there ????

 

and how are the gates timing kits ? its the one I'm looking at on rock auto

 

Jeff

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Gates are wonderful products, I would buy it.

 

What to change:

Timing belt

Idler

tensioner

Main crank seal

cam seals

water pump

re-seal oil pump

 

 

As long as you are there change the T-stat (you are there anyway but you don't have to if you don't want to) and replace the PCV valve.

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IRC buy the seals from Subaru ?? or is after market ok .

 

all ready have the t stat and gasket here OEM Subaru parts

 

going to do new hoses and i have to order a couple of bottles of the antifreeze conditioner ....

 

 

I also have to do the struts on this car which brand should i buy ????

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I like the OEM cam/crank seals and WP gasket myself.

 

I buy a WP with metal impellar.

 

Lots of us here use theimportexperts kits with good success. I always get a name brand belt though from them or local. They claim the MishubOshi belts are origanl manufacturer but they have other options and you have other options local. I've installed a lot of timing belts on Subaru's but never a Subaru belt!

 

Now is the time to replace the accessory belts too while they are off.

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Actually when I remember I get the PS one 1/2 inch longer (add 5 to the Dayco part# called for IIR) and get the AC one 5 shorter.

 

If you notice sometimes I have to undo the PS bracket some to get the new belt on. And on the AC side the called for belt - well the tensioner is usually pretty close to fully extended.

 

I just keep a WP box with the old sleeves from the accessory belts, the NGK U groove spark plugs(for DOHC), the TB sleeve in it for the local parts store. I just hand them the box for them to grab the parts. I also get a tube of Ultra Grey if I'm out.

 

At the dealer cam/crank seals, WP gasket, and if a HG job HG's and maybe intake & exhaust gaskets. Felpro are fine for me for intake & exhaust but OEM are about the same price so if I'm there I just get them. And coolant conditioner.

 

When I "redo" car to sale I also do air, fuel, oil & filter and coolant. I also service the transmission. At 100k (or roughly a TB change) I think every car should have the fuel filter changed.

 

Just make sure you get the crank pulley/harmonic balancer TIGHT!

 

Good luck.

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and how are the gates timing kits ? its the one I'm looking at on rock auto

 

Jeff

 

I buy all my parts from Rock Auto. Great service.

 

I had problems with the Gates and Cloyes belts. That was on a 2002 2.5 "one cam per head" engine. The issue was that one of the timing marks they put on the belt is one tooth off. I called tech support at both places and found that neither of them actually make the belts. They buy from Japan or Germany. So things got confusing.

 

I usually never use the timing marks on the new belts since they are not needed. This time I did. Now? For sure I will never use belt marks again. That is unless you lay the new belt against the one you take out and make sure all the marks line up (if you can see them on the old belt).

 

Much easier just to time the "old fashioned way" with engine marks. 100% reliable.

 

As to parts needed? Depends. I just yanked one apart with 170K miles and everything looked and felt like new including the belt itself. All idlers felt perfect as did the water pump and hydraulic tensioner. So I opted just to install the new belt and idler bearings. Once all the rusty bolts are freed - the belt change job itself only takes only a few hours.

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Never use the timing belt marks, as they are there just for reference really. The marks being off doesnt mean there is anything wrong with the belts. Even Subaru says do not use the marks on a timing belt to set the timing, always use the marks on the engine.

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Congrats on dealing with Jason--super helpful and a nice guy to boot!

 

Oil pump: Remove and check the screws on the backing plate (5 phillips head as I remember). They sometimes loosen up. Clean and Loctite them. Reinstall the pump with a new o-ring and a neat bead of Permatex Ultra-grey. Might want to replace the crank seal too.

 

Good luck.

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Congrats on dealing with Jason--super helpful and a nice guy to boot!

 

Oil pump: Remove and check the screws on the backing plate (5 phillips head as I remember). They sometimes loosen up. Clean and Loctite them. Reinstall the pump with a new o-ring and a neat bead of Permatex Ultra-grey. Might want to replace the crank seal too.

 

Good luck.

 

i knew by calling Jason i would be getting the right parts :clap: was going to do the crank seal while i was in there

 

Jeff

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