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engine pitch rod??


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You should probably adjust the pitchrod stopper nuts so that the center driveshaft is plumb.

You want it to go straight from the rear of the trns to the front of the rear diff. No angles.

 

A bubble level might help you do this, when the car is parked on level ground.

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You should probably adjust the pitchrod stopper nuts so that the center driveshaft is plumb.

You want it to go straight from the rear of the trns to the front of the rear diff. No angles.

 

A bubble level might help you do this, when the car is parked on level ground.

 

Completely wrong. Go climb under one and check your angles...

 

Generally speaking, with the engine sitting in the crossmember bolted to the transmission, and it is sitting in it's crossmember, tighten your pitch stopper. It is designed to stop movement. Not set an angle.

 

A bubble level... really? :popcorn:

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Might i add if your going to change the thermostat, Or T-stat gasket, Make sure you order them both from the dealer, the aftermarket ones are not reliable, (i know from making the mistake of using the aftermarket ones and they failed soon after). hope this helps.

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The pitch stopper acts as another engine mount. It is just there, no adjustment to it really, other than to make it fit where it is.

 

although you can adjust it one way or the other for the sake of servicing(remoing the trans, etc)

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If you adjust it too much one way, the throttle cable can pull more on the carb....

it can affect adjustment of the hlll holder/clutch cable, etc.

 

It can significantly change the exhaust y-pipe angle where it is under the floor board, how close the y pipe comes to the floor, etc...

so....it is there to be adjusted properly, and if it is wrong, you will cause excess where on the U joint to the driveshaft.....

cheeers.

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Again, the pitchrod is not adjustable for angle. The mount is slotted so that there is no...ZERO pressure on the bushings... it works the same as a strut rod bushing. Designed to hold position not adjust it!

 

If your exhaust hits or your u-joints wear out you have other problems. Better yet Genius... find me the pitchrod adjustment procedure in the FSM... oh yes, we'll wait!

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^

mkay

 

on page 5-8 step 15

"Install the pitching stopper as follows:

a)Insert pitching stopper rod into the

bracket on the engine side, and

tighten it at the car body side using

a nut.

B) Tigthen the rear nut on the pitching

stopper of the engine side so that

the specifid clearance exists be-

tween the rubber cushion and the

washer.

 

Specified clearance

 

MT 0.8 - 1.2 mm (0.03 - 0.05 in)

AT 1.8 - 2.2mm (0.07 - 0.09 in)

 

c) attach a wrench to the rear nut on

the pitching stopper of the engine

side to prevent it from turning, and

tighten the front nut securely.

 

Torque 1.0 - 1.8 kg-m (7-13 ft-lb

 

NOTE

Always make a precise adjustment

of the pitching stopper to prevent

the engine from vibrating during

operation.

 

Then on page 5-16

step 22) Adjust the pitching stopper as

follows:

a) Loosen nut until the pitching

stopper on the bracket (on the

engine side) is free to move.

B) Tighten the rear nut until the rub-

ber cushion-to-washer clearance is

within the specified value

 

MT 0.8 - 1.2 mm (0.03 - 0.05 in)

AT 1.8 - 2.2 mm (0.07 - 0.09 inc)

 

etc...

 

 

 

Now, that somes it up mkay

Edited by bheinen74
changed s in is to t now it
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Now, you read all of this right? No where does it say adjust anything but the clearance of the bushing to the bracket... using it to place the engine in anything but a neutral location will not fall within the specified adjustment clearance.

 

Now, that somes it up mkay

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so from ive got so far. is that just for giggles and craps, i will install new rod on level ground. The rod itself does not determine angle or incline etc. just the position of the half rubber plastic bushing that goes through the mount hole. when i bought the car a week ago the previous owner said its been shifting roughly into reverse, so far ive checked idle rpm which was high @1200rpm, bringing it back down to around 900-1000rpm seemed to improve the issue, but the fact that the rod is snapped im sure plays a role.

THANKS EVERYONE YOUR TIME AND HELP, IT IS APPRECIATED.

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I just asked the guy at autozone for the stuff.

I have the bottle at home still. But I'm sure someone here can recite that viscosity off the to of their head.

 

My first tranny ate the ring gear on the differential.

I will never neglect gear oil again.

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that would be so amazing!! name your price! my gf is getting discouraged, but for 650 with 75k original!! in michigan!!! i will gladly dump a grand into this little monster. just because i know its potentiaL. ANYWAY TO SEE A PIC JUST TO CONFIRM THE FIT/SIZE. I LOOKED ALL OVER TODAY ONLINE, ON THE PHONE, COULDNT FIND ANYTHING! I HAVE THE BUSHING KIT THOUGH.

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that would be so amazing!! name your price! my gf is getting discouraged, but for 650 with 75k original!! in michigan!!! i will gladly dump a grand into this little monster. just because i know its potentiaL. ANYWAY TO SEE A PIC JUST TO CONFIRM THE FIT/SIZE. I LOOKED ALL OVER TODAY ONLINE, ON THE PHONE, COULDNT FIND ANYTHING! I HAVE THE BUSHING KIT THOUGH.

 

 

PM me with your email and I can send a pic, but I assure you if you have a 1983 subaru, this is the part you need. As far as price, $10 shipped sound good?

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