davebugs Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Here is the deal. I sold this car to a freind for his son. Kid says driving along and car stopped. Since my accident I can't "redo" cars anymore so maintenance hsitory is unknown - like 150k I believe. So I'm gonna take ignitor, coil (I only have 97 coils left I believe), cam sensor, pickup a new crank sensor, fuel filter(car had a full tank), plug wires (just because I have a nice set and I may ruin what's on the engine when diagnosing) used idlers, etc. Local garage quoted 500 and 2 weeks for Timing Belt change. I had him ask them to take a cover off and look and they say a cam sprocket doees move. I'm taking my harmonic balancer homemade tool too. More concerned with diagnosing and possible swap of easy parts. But don't know if I'm physically up to doing a TB job especially at someone else's garage. My plans are to: Crank car and see if it spins "too fast" Check for SPark CHeck timing belt (take off other cover end) COuld be on but cogs stripped so I'll check both cam's alignment After that I'll either persue fuel or scratch my head a bit. Not smart enough to check cam and crank sensor with meter. So I'm jsut gonna "work at it" a bit looking for the usual suspects. But if anyone has any bright ideas they are welcomed. Gotta round up tools, parts, pain drugs and travel 60 miles to the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 maybe you mentioned it but take an OBDII scanner. i just did a full DOHC EJ25 timing belt and it was unbelievably quick - all new pulleys, tensioner, and belt. no water pump or seals and it was only 45 minutes. had zero rust on anything, so it all came apart really easy, that never happens. LOL change the belt and failed pulleys if any and don't remove the coolant line, don't reinstall the covers and it can be a really quick job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 Forgot about the scanner because I'm usually working on "dead" cars with no codes and unabkle to run to generate a code. I'll add that to my list! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmmagow Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Never sell a car to a friend :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Never sell a car to a friend :-) Also, never sell a car to a relative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 How long, and roughly how many miles has the TB and idlers, water pump been on the 95? If a long time, I am betting on a broken timing belt, possibly made broken, when an idler or water pump bearing froze up to cause the belt to break. If so, you may want to take a water pump with you. If you don't use it, it is easily returnable for money back at a parts store. A '95, 2.2 is non interference, so you don't have to worry about any valve damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 UPdate! Timing belt had jumped. Pass cam sprocket lined up, crank almost aligned - maybe off a tooth, drivers cam sprocket off by an inch. All cogs still on NAPA belt. Car had 135k. The end of the tensioner was very clean - like perhaps they forgot to push it to the left as you're supposed to before tightening. New timing belt on. Tomorrow they let the crap burn out of the engine and exhaust, check coolant. Hope all is well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Congrats!........sounds like you found the problem, and got her fixed. That's great!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 The saga continues. I may start a new thread. They had an idle problem. Somewhere along the line someone thought the original problem was the MAF and had left something loose or off. Now they say even though they push buttons the heat always hits them in the face. hot/cold selector does work I am searching now. But what I see is after folks get buttons unstuck usually the problem is resolved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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