Rooster2 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 I have a 95, EJ-22 that threw a code for a bad crank sensor. I tried to remove the old sensor by disconnecting the wire, removing the bolt, then gently prying up on the sensor with a screw driver. Trouble is......the crank sensor plastic housing broke off flush with the block. How can I remove what's left of the sensor? How difficult is this going to be?? Thanks for any help. I really screwed up this project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 They suck! Get all corroded in there. Had you posted before hand folks would have suggested you start spraying it down first. Increases your odds but they still do break regularly. I usually have a nub left and hose pliers work. I realize you're screwed and don't have any good suggestions. I'm just telling you this isn't uncommon so don't beat yourself up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 They suck! Get all corroded in there. Had you posted before hand folks would have suggested you start spraying it down first. Increases your odds but they still do break regularly. I usually have a nub left and hose pliers work. I realize you're screwed and don't have any good suggestions. I'm just telling you this isn't uncommon so don't beat yourself up. The metal probe and two little wires came out. Maybe I am lucky and it is just the brown plastic housing that remains. If so, maybe I can chisel out what remains. I will pick up a new sensor later today, and look at that one to get a good idea of what remains in the block. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Yes if it resists at all, it needs good penetrating oil and lots of patience, which unfortunately is hard to find when it is making the vehicle not run. Even a little corrosion in that hole makes it just about impossible to get it out. Usually when doing the timing belt, I remove that sensor and put a light coating of antisieze on it so that it stands a better chance of coming out later if necessary. I suppose absolutely worst case would be removing the oil pump to drive out the sensor such as with a brass drift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 The whole bottom is one piece metal sleeve. And that's what corrodes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 The whole bottom is one piece metal sleeve. And that's what corrodes. I bought a replacement unit, and see that it is a one piece metal sleeve. I tried prying on what is left of the plastic, but that is no good. Little pieces of plastic just want to break off. I am thinking of removing the alternator, which is in the way. The counter guy at parts store suggested drilling a hole, then screwing in a wall anchor. He said get the kind, that expands prongs out, when pushed through a hole. Then, grabbing the wall anchor screw, and pulling the "can" unit out. Who knows, maybe that will work. I have soaked down the unit with PB Blaster, maybe that will help. Any thoughts on what I have just written? Any fresh ideas?? This sure has become a PITA, that I don't need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 I'm thinking there isn't enough room under the sensor to dirll it then put an anchor in it and pull. I'd imagine you'd be hitting the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Remove the alternator, grab the top of the sensor with some pliers and twist it to get the rust/corrosion knocked loose. Then twist and pull it out of the housing. If it's really stuck you can drill it out and drive a self tapping screw into it to pull on it with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Remove the alternator, grab the top of the sensor with some pliers and twist it to get the rust/corrosion knocked loose. Then twist and pull it out of the housing. If it's really stuck you can drill it out and drive a self tapping screw into it to pull on it with. Thanks for the advise. I was already to the point of removing the alternator to get it out of the way, but ran out of daylight to do the job today. I will try twisting with pliers first, and hope to get lucky. I have it sprayed down good with PB Blaster, so maybe a good soak over night with PB will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Got the crank sensor replaced........it was a bear!!! With a friend, we slowly chipped away plastic from inside existing crank sensor, slowly removed it's contents, and used an awl to bend the crank sensor tubular housing inward, where needle nose pliers could grasp the bent housing and complete the total removal. Should someone read this post in the future, it is NOT advisable to drill a hole in the bottom of the sensor housing, then screw in a self taping screw, as someone suggested. If this were to be done, there is minimal empty space under the drilled hole. It would be easy to cause damage to gear teeth below, or to the housing. You don't want to chance doing any damage. Glad this job is complete, it was a nasty PITA, that I don't want to do again!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Congratulations. I didn't think there was much room under it. Did you anit-seize it or just figure you'd never have to replace it again? They are a PITA though. Even on parts engines where access is easy and timing isn't critical they are tough. Lets put it this way I have removed and sold or broken all the crank sensors from parts engines. They are the worst thing on a Subaru engine itself I've tried to remove that I can recall. Atleast it had a happy ending. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Congratulations. I didn't think there was much room under it. Did you anit-seize it or just figure you'd never have to replace it again? They are a PITA though. Even on parts engines where access is easy and timing isn't critical they are tough. Lets put it this way I have removed and sold or broken all the crank sensors from parts engines. They are the worst thing on a Subaru engine itself I've tried to remove that I can recall. Atleast it had a happy ending. Thanks for all the advise. Yes, I applied anti-seize on new one upon installation. If I ever have to remove a crank sensor again, and the plastic sheers off at the block line, I will aggressively remove the entire contents of the sensor by cutting away all plastic, then removing contents with needle nose pliers, leaving only the old thin metal sensor casing shell. Use a very thin screw driver or knife blade to start bending the casing inward. Once all sides are bent inward, then needle nose pliers easily pulled out the entire casing shell, and sensor removal was complete. I hope this info helps the next guy, who does a "search" on this topic, and who got stuck like I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Glad you got it out! From your description, it sounds like you gave it a 'root canal' Yes there is not much clearance between the tip of the sensor and the 'marks' on the crank sprocket. It looks like if one of the marks isn't directly below the sensor when working on it, there is a little more clearance there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Glad you got it out! From your description, it sounds like you gave it a 'root canal' Yes there is not much clearance between the tip of the sensor and the 'marks' on the crank sprocket. It looks like if one of the marks isn't directly below the sensor when working on it, there is a little more clearance there. Very good description " a root canal," lol, lol, you could not have described it any better. Yes, I could look down in the hole after the sensor was fully removed. I could see a little bit of the gear, and was glad I did not drill through the casing, and try inserting a self taping screw to remove. Just too easy to damage the gear, and whatever. Your picture shows just how close everything is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwbean Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Just for information- did you try testing the unit bfr replacing? did replacing it solve the problem? How was the vehicle running bfr the code poped up? I am having the same problem. got code 13 as well got code 11 and 32 I tried testing the resistance of the coil but there is no refrence in the repair manual as to what the resistence spec is supposed to be. before i took mine out i cleaned the area with carb cleaner, then sprayed it with deep creep and left it sit for a couple of hours. When I took the srew out it came rigtht out and the sensor housing had a ligth coat of engine oil and no corrosion. does that it mean it was replaced reciently?? the conncetor looked ok but old. when I checked it by passing a magnet it induced a votage in it but it only changed by .001 and .002 volts it that all the signal it needs?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Just for information- did you try testing the unit bfr replacing? did replacing it solve the problem? How was the vehicle running bfr the code poped up? I am having the same problem. got code 13 as well got code 11 and 32 I tried testing the resistance of the coil but there is no refrence in the repair manual as to what the resistence spec is supposed to be. before i took mine out i cleaned the area with carb cleaner, then sprayed it with deep creep and left it sit for a couple of hours. When I took the srew out it came rigtht out and the sensor housing had a ligth coat of engine oil and no corrosion. does that it mean it was replaced reciently?? the conncetor looked ok but old. when I checked it by passing a magnet it induced a votage in it but it only changed by .001 and .002 volts it that all the signal it needs?? Car was running just fine, but would throw a CEL when motor started. I drove to a parts store, where the counter guy pulled the code. I don't know the code that was displayed. Counter guy said the crank position sensor was bad. The sensor was never checked for electrical values. Car did not start immediately upon leaving the auto parts store, but let motor cool down, and then it started okay. Counter guy said a bad sensor was causing the no start. Upon replacing the sensor, the CEL is gone, and motor has started without hesitation every time, so I am thinking replacing the sensor has fixed the problem. Hard to tell how old your crank sensor is. If one of the codes that you have read is for the crank sensor, then I would replace it, if I were you. Cost with tax out the door is about $40 at a parts store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 I literally had a new one in my hand the other day and an aftermarket was over 50.00 with my discount. I didn't price shop because I was in a hurry and ended up returning it anyways. I do have those splined crank pulleys if anyone does drill theirs. Of course then they are in essence talkng a timing belt job too. Which sucks if you just started out trying to do the simple job of sensor replacement. I can't really activey work on cars yet (hope to agian someday) but when I work on a Subaru I usually give that sensor a shot of Liquid Wrench figureing it sticks around longer than PB. Then if later someone needs to remove it the odds might be improved. Also a mechanic friend told me that PB is actually corrosive. When working on my VW for me he wanted to spray some connectors to make them easier to seperate. He ended up using WD-40, I told him I use PB when necessary and he told me it's corrosive. And it could well be for all I know. I literally buy it by the gallon. Can you imagine trying to do this as a roadside repair? Could be a very unpleasant surprise. I have witnessed this sensor being the cause of occasional no start condition with no codes several times. So if your car doesn't always start - I'd start soaking it down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 I have never heard of PB Blaster being corrosive, nor seen any evidence of corrosion after separating parts that had PB Blaster sprayed on them long ago. If so, I still think it is the all time champion to get parts to loosen up and separate that have corroded together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 (edited) Oops... wrong thread Edited December 5, 2011 by jarl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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