derekdee Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Hey everyone. I got an 88 GL, most recently the car died at a gas station after turning it off to refuel. After replacing the TPS and a ghetto rigging the air selonid, I got it to start. Although it was still running rough, so I dropped it off at the stealership to get a thorough diagnosis. They notified me that it was a dead ecm. So I replaced it and replaced the O2 sensor, hoping that the car would ride a bit smoother with some better feedback. It runs well, but starting it is a PITA. It will start no problem, but quickly drops in rpm and dies. So in order to keep it live, I have to hold down the throttle and keep it at about 4000 rpm's to get it warm enough to hold an idle. Once it's warm, no issues what so ever. From research, I'm thinking its the idle air control valve. Can you guys fill me in or provide some suggestions. Also, I started getting a mean shack starting at about 20mph, horrible at 47. Got the wheels and tires balanced, still there. So I got under it and started messing with the driveshaft. Sure enough, about an inch of play in the rear diff side. I already replaced the front tranny side with a pick and pull part, but decided this time to buy a new u joint. Is it possible to replace these u joints? There's no retaining c clip indentation on the shaft, there's about 8 or so chiseled indentations that hold the caps in on the factory u joint. Let me know, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 You shouldn't hold it at that high RPM, 2000 or so would work. Sounds like the IACV to me, especially since it'll run when warm. After it's warmed up, push the gas pedal all the way to the floor. If it's an IACV problem the engine should just plain die like you shut off the key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Also check your coolant temp sensor. Not the sending unit for the gauge, the sensor for the computer. They're known to corrode the connector and cause a runnability issue when cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekdee Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 yup, it boggs out if I attempt to floor it. I pulled it off and am trying to clean it before I replace it. Its only on a cold start that it does this, if it has already been driven for a bit, its gravey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PadreScout Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 wow, mine is doing the exact same thing- must be an '88 thing or something. I cleaned my MAF and throttle body and that helped some as well, so you might want to clean those if you havent already- didn't outright fix the problem, but it did help somewhat for me... maybe that plus this air thing theyre talkingabout will fix that right up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekdee Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 you'll have to pull the throttle body to get the valve off. It was pretty easy job to clean it and reinstall, hoping it works. If not, off to pick and pull this week to get a new one. My buddy ended up welding the ujoint in, comedy, thing is pretty much indestructible now. This car is my daily driver, so its basically a learning experience seeing something breaks weekly on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekdee Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 Where's the coolant sensor at? I'm looking for it in the Hayne's manual and the pic just doesn't do justice. The stealership mentioned that to confirm that the ecm was junk was through the coolant sensor. Apparently the ecm was reading the coolant as 40 degrees at a cold start. Think they replaced the sensor and it was still doing it. I'll look into it though if you guys can point it out for me. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 This car is my daily driver, so its basically a learning experience seeing something breaks weekly on it. This is not a fun situation to be in.... Unreliable DDs suck. You'll find yourself in situations like figuring out how to replace axles in a parking lot 600 miles from home, or using teh deck of a house with strict no working on cars rules to pull the engine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekdee Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 yea, I have an 06 Subaru STi with a blouch dom3r pushing 445 to the wheels if the car breaks down. Plus a double axle trailer with a brother who owns a z71. Got my bases covered, just learning how to keep my cool when the unexpected happens. Just hope someday that this car functions properly. Bought it with zero brake pressure, holes in coolant hoses, blown wheel bearings, worn pads and rotors and drums/shoes, and the notorious oil pump gasket with a noisy lifter. I've done ball joints, tierods, master cylinder, wheel cylinders in the rear, shoes, front brakes, 2 front axles, both driveshafts, ecm, O2 sensor... I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but I've learned a bunch. The oil pump gasket was definitely a pain in the butt, but such a joy to get rid of that noisy lifter. Is the coolant sensor, while standing at the front of the car looking at the motor, on the front right side of the motor? Thanks for all the help everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 (edited) Under the intake on the passenger side. Has light colored fuel injector style connector Edited December 3, 2011 by zukiru Wrong picture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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