3.0 Valve Cover Gaskets

[wrongturninwv]

2001 Subaru Outback 3.0 VDC. Why cant I find any Subaru OEM part numbers for these gaskets ??? Need some part numbers for right and left side valve cover gasket also numbers for the inside gaskets and the half moons for the valve cover bolts. Searched the net and find only aftermarket stuff like Fellpro or Nippon. thanks

[RAYJAY]

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=14160

 

part number should be on that page, for valve cover gaskets i would just use the felpro set if its a complete set

 

 

Jeff

[Caboobaroo]

After having experience doing a few sets of these, use the OEM gaskets. They seem to seat better on the head and in the cover where the aftermarket ones seem a bit smaller and a not as tight fit as the OEM ones.

[GeneralDisorder]

OEM is usually not that much more expensive and they are better fitting as noted. You could try one of the online dealers like 1stsubaruparts.com or subarupartsforyou.com. They tend to be as cheap as my wholesale discount at my local dealer and my prices aren't alarming - often similar to aftermarket actually. Especially on H6 parts.

 

GD

[wrongturninwv]

Thanks for the info. I found if you dont get the kit its just a mix and match on these gaskets. You will still have to go to Subaru for something that the aftermarket ones dont come with. You said you did a few of these. Did you have to use any sealer ??? thanks

[idosubaru]

spark plugs are a challenge on these motors and easier with the covers off, good time to do those if around the time they're needed.

 

subaru has the opposed forces website as well with all part numbers. someone posted all the part numbers for an H6 of your vintage headgasket job on subaruoutback.org too.

[CNY_Dave]

That's my plan if my car survives waiting for me to replace an axle- do the plugs and valve cover gaskets at the same time.

 

Due to the axle seeming to be ready to vacate the premises, looks like I need to take my chances and go for a cardone from napa or autozone.

 

Seems the only ones more hated are the GSP and Fenco axles at Advance.

 

Dave

[1 Lucky Texan]

That's my plan if my car survives waiting for me to replace an axle- do the plugs and valve cover gaskets at the same time.

 

Due to the axle seeming to be ready to vacate the premises, looks like I need to take my chances and go for a cardone from napa or autozone.

 

Seems the only ones more hated are the GSP and Fenco axles at Advance.

 

Dave

 

consider the

Empi 80-5521

 

 

 

mine's been fine on my wife's Outback. Good pricing from Rockauto, maybe check Amazon too. They are all new, assembled in the US (with a new Chinese CV joint IIRC) so, everything is properly precision ground and heat treated. came with a new pin and the gold nut and 12 month warranty. So far, working fine. Or go with MWE, they seem to be everyone's favorite rebuild.

[CNY_Dave]

Time's the factor here- 100 mi/day, trip early next week, work is too far to have my wife run me in. Have to do it this weekend. Or sooner.

 

I called my subaru dealer- they use NAPA (A1 Cardone) for when a customer wants the rebuilt axle. He said they have been working well for them, so NAPA it will be. 52 bucks for a rebuild, 107 new.

 

The other I have more time, maybe I will have time to see if the Napa axle proves out.

 

 

Dave

[wrongturninwv]

Not at all cheep on those gaskets,by the time you get everything from Subaru your looking at over $100.00 bucks. I got all the part numbers today. Each side has a right and left cover gasket and 3 inner gaskets to each side too and 4 half moon things like gromets. My plugs were done some time ago so dont have to buy them. thanks

[idosubaru]

Time's the factor here- 100 mi/day, trip

you can pack the boots with grease and that will bring them back down to normal levels - i've done it on both inner and outer joints.

 

stuff them with grease by hand and they won't overheat and won't fail. my friend back in college would wrap them in saran wrap to keep the grease in, i've never done that though!! he considered that a permanent fix.

 

south georgia sand TORE UP the outer CV joints in no time on mine which had bad CV boot. packing it with grease bought me a few weeks (drove 900 miles back to Maryland even) until I could replace them. they'd start getting REALLY loud and i'd just stuff grease in there by hand (be careful if you've been driving, it gets really hot in there!).

 

also went elk hunting in colorado two years ago and busted both inner boots out there and the vibrations were shaking the entire car at various speeds, was vibrating almost so bad the car didn't feel drivable. i packed it a couple times by hand and made the 2,000 mile drive back to Maryland to replace the boots.....actually i just rebooted and they've been smooth as silk even after all the abuse! go MWE!!!

 

anyway - stuff some grease in there dave to buy time regardless of what you choose.

[Caboobaroo]

I usually only replace the rear moons of they're leaking, which is very unlikely. I usually put a dab of gray silicone on the corners of the rubber to prevent them from leaking.

 

As far as axles go, I would only go OEM on these cars as I've seen many new aftermarket axles cause heavy vibrations under accellerating, decellerating, and highway speeds. If your current axle isn't making noise you can still possibly reboot it instead of replace it. Empi axle boots are OEM as well which is what I use. Their boot kits come with grease and bands where others can come with just the boot.