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Diagnosis? My engine is a paradox in the space time continuum.


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I have a question for those of you that have the pcv reroute kit. what is the difference between the blue and the black "T" connectors? The reason I ask is I bought some hose and connectors from lowes to make my own reroute kit so i don't have to buy it from the stealership.

 

This pdf website (http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/pvc_mod.pdf) explains the procedure and at the 4th page states that the blue and black connectors aren't interchangeable because the blue connector has an "orifice". what is it talking about? please explain in detail.

 

thank you

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I have a question for those of you that have the pcv reroute kit. what is the difference between the blue and the black "T" connectors? The reason I ask is I bought some hose and connectors from lowes to make my own reroute kit so i don't have to buy it from the stealership.

 

This pdf website (http://www.directcon.net/gmc248/Subaru/pvc_mod.pdf) explains the procedure and at the 4th page states that the blue and black connectors aren't interchangeable because the blue connector has an "orifice". what is it talking about? please explain in detail.

 

thank you

 

I have both fittings, I'll take some photos when I get ome so you can see the difference

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Interesting stuff. I have that "re-route kit" on my '93 Loyale and all this time I thought that was the factory set-up? Anyways the blue tee, although the same diameter as the black one, is necked down inside to about 1/4", in the middle where the 90 degree "T" is (f this makes sense). I guess that would be the "orifice" referred to.

 

-Keith

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Is it possible to still get those pictures? thank you

 

can anyone else help answer my above question?

 

I am really sorry, I completely forgot about this, here’s some pictures for you, and if you want the real McCoy rather then hardware bought fittings, I have three complete sets, minus the hose, that’s all that’s missing and if you want to pay postage, I’ll send you a set, but you will have to buy the hose which I don’t think is a big deal. $5.00 for this set sure beats the $50 I paid the dealer for the new one that’s on my car, and I don’t think you can go to the hardware store and buy the correct fittings for any less then $5.00

 

This is the bypass fitting set (minus the hose)

th_100_2408.jpg

 

This is the original fitting set that it replaces:

th_100_2409.jpg

 

This is the new blue fitting next to the old gray one that it replaces:

th_100_2404.jpg

 

This is a close up of the old gray fitting, notice one hole is smaller then the other:

th_100_2406.jpg th_100_2405.jpg

 

And here’s a close up of the blue fitting: (you can see the orfice in the center of it, at least that's what I think their talking about

th_100_2402.jpg th_100_2403.jpg

 

GD just resealed my engine, and it was drinking oil like it was going out of style, about a quart every 100 to 150 miles (it was that bad) and I put this bypass kit in it and it completly stopped the oil sucking.

 

from the reading I've done, it seems to be a common problem between resealing an EA82, then having it suck more oil then before the reseal, apperently resealing the engine also causes it to develop more pressure inside which is forcing the oil out through the vacuum lines, at least that's my theory. I've also read that you only want to use the stock factory PCV valve, something about spring pressure or something is different with the aftermarket ones, which will also cause it to suck more oil.

Edited by Stubies Subie
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I have installled 20 to 30 of these kits and it helps but lets look at basics, does your oil cap rattle when on tight. if it rattles it is a vacumn leak for the pvc system. Try turning the cap back 1/8 of a turn. leak sealed till you get a new seal. You may think I'm crazy but it works and you can check for a rattle in a split second.

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