cal_look_zero Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I can't see exactly what it was that did it, but I pinched the wiring for my crank sensor when I was reassembling the engine. Looks like it's pinched between the water neck and the top of the block, but that's irrelevant now isn't it? It's pinched badly enough that 2 of the pins are showing an open connection with each other. My easy question, at this point, am I going to lose anything by cutting the wiring on either side of the pinch, adding in a little wire, and splicing it all back together? Seems I have nothing to lose at this point... To answer all possible questions: Timing is correct, belt is brand new, 12v to the coil, no pulse to fuel injector plugs, no power between center and either outer pin on coil plug, all grounds connected, battery has 12.25v, one good pin on crank sensor shows 1.024k ohms, all pins show ac voltage hop upon cranking, and for the love of pete I rocked the search button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Seems nothing to lose, this is just two wires like a lamp cord, not one wire within a shield (like TV Coax), correct? The other question, is the wire pinched somewhere that it is keeping a gasket from fully sealing? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Seems nothing to lose, this is just two wires like a lamp cord, not one wire within a shield (like TV Coax), correct? The other question, is the wire pinched somewhere that it is keeping a gasket from fully sealing? Dave Pretty much what I'm thinking. It's 3 wires, but easy enough to splice. It's pinched right on top of the block, no gaskets to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Pretty much what I'm thinking. It's 3 wires, but easy enough to splice. It's pinched right on top of the block, no gaskets to worry about. 3 wires coming out, internally it's 2 wires wrapped in exposed thin strand wire. Should be able to replicate that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNY_Dave Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Ah, 2 wires plus shield. If shielded, the shielding is important. If you can lose a bit of length, easiest to just make it shorter, joining the shield well will be the challenge. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 I was only able to get about 3" on either side. I've repaired shielded wire before. Not a fan of it, but it's not impossible. I'll report back tomorrow if it worked or not. Where's the smiley banging his head against the wall. Couldn't be a cheap sensor, had to be the one that costs as much to replace as the car was... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 Could someone do me a solid and ohm a good crank sensor out for me? The crank sensor "testing" that the search returned has too many "should be"s and "I think"s for me to trust any of it. The white wire to red and to black is showing 1.0xx K Ohm, and black to red is showing 55 Ohm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Ohms mean nothing as long as it is not showing an open. The sensor is a reluctance type. When the high point on the crank wheel passes under the sensor, it makes an AC pulse, so a analog meter is better then a digital in this case. As long as it makes a pulse it is fine. You can run it without sheilding to get things going, but you need to replace it at some time with a good one. It is really easy to pick up a stray AC signal and since it is a very low voltage AC signal it may cause the occasional miss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 Ohms mean nothing as long as it is not showing an open. The sensor is a reluctance type. When the high point on the crank wheel passes under the sensor, it makes an AC pulse, so a analog meter is better then a digital in this case. As long as it makes a pulse it is fine. You can run it without sheilding to get things going, but you need to replace it at some time with a good one. It is really easy to pick up a stray AC signal and since it is a very low voltage AC signal it may cause the occasional miss. Yeah, it's got a good connection now and reads a small ac spike; engine still has no pulse to the fuel injectors or coil. Bought a new knock, and used cam/crank sensors from BHeinen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Do you have a CEL light when first starting? Crank is spark, cam is fuel. Even if the timing belt is off a few teeth you should still get spark. Check your fuses and connections Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 All fuses and connections are good. CEL has been disabled, that's part of my punchlist. I'm not 100% sure why I don't have either fuel or spark; thus replacing both sensors. I'm going to dig a little deeper Sunday when I have more free time. I'll get it sooner than later. Better to figure it all out now while the car is down for repairs than when I'm all the way up the mountain snowboarding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Get the CEL working, lets see if it even works, if it doesnt odds are the ECU is cooked. Check to see if there is power to the fuel injectors. The injectors are grounded through the ECU in order to operate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 (edited) I'm a dunce. Details would help eh? Ok, the reason I have any issues at all is that I pulled the engine and resealed/replaced the clutch. It ran ok, save for the burned out clutch and leaky HGs. CEL never lit up upon key "on", but everything ran and worked fine. Fuel pump kicks on, cam gears are on the correct sides, no missing teeth (ones that the sensor reads) from the crank gear. I dropped the harness with the knock/cam;crank sensors when I took it off the block. Hit the concrete hard enough for the brittle knock sensor housing to fully break in half; thus my um, logic(?) of replacing the sensors with known good ones instead of the risk of damaged ones failing on me. Edited December 10, 2011 by cal_look_zero Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeky Moose Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 if the fule pump is working and its getting spark, just no injector pulse i would point my finder towards teh ECU a well, especially if the cel doesn't work.. could always pull mine out and plug it in to your car to test.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 If it ran before and doesnt now, i would tri[ple check EVERYTHING you touched, including un plugging and then reconnecting every electricle connector you touched and see. I think it is a harness issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 if the fule pump is working and its getting spark, just no injector pulse i would point my finder towards teh ECU a well, especially if the cel doesn't work.. could always pull mine out and plug it in to your car to test.. It's not getting spark either. I have 12v going to the coil pack, but no spark at the plugs. I don't see how the ECU could crap out since the car's been sitting, and I didn't do anything silly like reverse the polarity of the battery. Although if you wouldn't mind bringing it by, I'd be very appreciative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeky Moose Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 hmm, so no spark and no injector pulse, but everything else is good.. jeeps do that when the crank sensor is bad.. about the only free time i have this weekend is sunday around 5 in the afternoon.. gonna be gone today gettin a xmas tree... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 im going to go with replace the crank sensor instead of fixing it since it is damaged already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 im going to go with replace the crank sensor instead of fixing it since it is damaged already. New (to me) one should be here Monday, along with a new (to me) cam sensor and a new knock sensor. Strange, strange enigma this morning, I had been testing the cam sensor and forgot to plug it back in. Had fogged a little starting fluid into the throttle body and bumped the starter and it kinda sorta chugged like it momentarily got spark. So I think replacing the sensors is ideal. Like I said, I did drop the harness on accident, so who knows what may or may not have gotten knocked loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeky Moose Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 so i don't think i'll be bringin my car by lol.. the center diff doesn't like not having an axle in the front.. gotta wait till wed to get a new axle.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 so i don't think i'll be bringin my car by lol.. the center diff doesn't like not having an axle in the front.. gotta wait till wed to get a new axle.. That's ok, I'm waiting til I get the sensors Monday before I delve into trying a different ECU. I am however, going to pull the dash apart tomorrow to see if the CEL is just burned out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted December 12, 2011 Author Share Posted December 12, 2011 Thanks to Tony (Meeky Moose) I learned a valuable lesson about not trusting how a fuse looks from the exterior; specifically the big 30A ones. My "SBF No 2" had blown in a spot not visible until Tony wiggled it and it was obviously in 2 pieces. Jumpered the terminals and she fired right up. All old sensors, ECU, and CEL are fine. Well now, don't I feel silly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meeky Moose Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 eh, just takes an extra set of eyes sometimes just glad i could help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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