bigjimd Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 (edited) I can't figure out these 2 sets of plugs. When I first bought this car both the green plugs and the white plugs were plugged in. After we resealed the motor and swapped in the 5mt MDJDC told me to unplug the green after setting the timing. Did so. Now I'm fighting a high idle, will hit that again tomorrow but while looking at stuff I keep looking at those 2 connectors. Whats the white one for? And the green one only gets plugged together to set the timing right? When we got it. The way things are now. Oops I took the whites apart to see if that would affect anything. It did the CEL stopped flashing but still idled high. So hooked em back up. Thanks hor any help! Edited December 12, 2011 by bigjimd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farfromiowa Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 I am wondering the same thing, what do they really do? I have a 1989 DL wagon. When I got it, they were not connected but have a CEL code 35 I cannot get rid of. I think plugging in the white one is to read the codes and green is to clear them. When I plug in the green and turn the ignition to on, the car makes a humming noise and a clicking that seems to be coming from the fuel tank area. fuel pump? When the green is plugged in the CEL goes out but it still has the code 35. I ordered a new purge solenoid, tried 3 from the junk yard with no success (left battery disconnected over night). Will see what happens tuesday when the new solenoid comes in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The FNG Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125107 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donnieru Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 (edited) Hey. The green one is read memory for current issues. The white one is d-check to read old stored codes. The green is used to set the timing. Neither of them are supposed to be hooked together during normal operation. It causes the flashing CEL because of it being in test mode without timing advance and such. Connecting both clears the codes. They are used by being hooked up and the ignition put in the on position. As to the high idle issue. It's not just the normal fast idle when the car is cold? My Loyale idles between 2200 and 2800 depending on outside temp. when it is first started, then drops to normal idle after it reaches operating temp. Usually takes it around 6 minutes. If that isn't the issue, could it be that the idle is set higher to compensate for the load that would be put on from the normal operation of the automatic tranny that was in it? Like what it does when it goes to kick on the A/C compressor. it anticipates the load and idles up. Isn't there a wire on the ecm that tells it whether it is a manual or auto? Edited December 16, 2011 by donnieru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjimd Posted December 17, 2011 Author Share Posted December 17, 2011 Hunh he mutters. Never thought of that. But if so why did it wait to suface? Thanks for the tip I will check the wiring diagram.It has been running since reassembly with the whites hooked together and was idleing like it should. Now it goes to about 1750 or so at startup when cold. If you touch the gas it jumps to 2500 try and blip it again and it goes to 3000. After the tstat opens it drops to around 1250. Seems to hold rpm's if you blip it ittakes longer than it should to drop back down. Now have both connectors unhooked. CEL at crank. No CEL after start. Have cleaned the MAF giz with the proper CRC cleaner. Replaced both solenoids. Checked for vacuum leaks. Checked throttle cable movement. EGR valve bellows seems ok when you reach inside and push on it. It's only been a couple thousand mile if that since I looked at the PCV valve and it was moving freely. Guess I should look at that again. Idle air valve was cleaned and if you blew through it no air moved so valve is seating correctly but I swapped it with another that was cleaned and seemed good anyhow. Tried the dime with a hole drilled in it trick too. Thinking about replacing the temp sender. It's the 2 prong one in the tstat housing correct. The electric fan runs if jumped out but will not run with A/C on. Don't think its ever gotten hot enough to trigger the fan. Need to check the resistance on that sender at cold and after running for a while. Replaced the radiator, water pump and tsat when we got it just cause of the age of the car. I'm about ready to adjust the hard stop down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 the 2 prong is the temp sender for the ECu itself. also, check the idle air control valve to see if the spring inside i not gummed up, an it may not be closing all the way when warm, causing the high idle. i would think this is coincidental, and entirely unrelated to the test connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjimd Posted December 18, 2011 Author Share Posted December 18, 2011 Thanks for the info! And yes I agree about the test plugs. I did think that replacing the 2 solenoids would help the idle and i cleaned the valve well I thought. May not have gotten the spring really well so will hit it again. Think that valve would make it climb rpms when cold like it does? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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