Redcap Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 After fighting with it for a exceedingly long period of time yesterday, I finally got the timing belt back on, but...it seemed far more difficult than it should be and my instructions were lackluster at best. Everything imaginable seemed to fight me. Is there an easy way (for next time, in case I'm a tooth off)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 remove the lower idler pulley on the passengers side, the one that's below the belt. install the belt with that removed, then it'll bolt in place once the belt it on. i install the crank and drivers side first, having a helper hold the belt on the drivers side cam makes it a cinch but it's easy to do yourself too once you get it down, then wrap the passengers side, and do the lower toothed idler last. it's a little tight but goes in a matter of seconds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted December 12, 2011 Author Share Posted December 12, 2011 remove the lower idler pulley on the passengers side, the one that's below the belt. install the belt with that removed, then it'll bolt in place once the belt it on. i install the crank and drivers side first, having a helper hold the belt on the drivers side cam makes it a cinch but it's easy to do yourself too once you get it down, then wrap the passengers side, and do the lower toothed idler last. it's a little tight but goes in a matter of seconds. That is pretty close to what I tried, but for the life of me I couldn't get the toothed idler to go in! Finally, I let the two smooth idlers be loose, raged at it a little and it worked out. I just hope I got the cam phasing right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 That is pretty close to what I tried, but for the life of me I couldn't get the toothed idler to go in! Finally, I let the two smooth idlers be loose, raged at it a little and it worked out. I just hope I got the cam phasing right. NOT MINE, BUT A GREAT HINT!! Put the timing marks on the belt over the timing marks on the camshaft pullies and clip them with a bull dog clip. Makes it an easy "one man" job. Then install the timing belt with the passenger side lower pulley removed. I losened the bolt holding the toothed cog a bit. The toothed cog could then be "tilted" on the bolt a bit. Once the toothed cog is tilted it's easy to slip the belt on. You only have to back the bolt out until the cog will tilt. Most the bolt remains threaded into the block. You don't want to strip the threads in the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 You install the toothed idler SECOND to last (third if you count pulling the tensioner pin). You install in this order: Cam seals. Cam pulleys. Crank seal. Crank pulley. Upper smooth idler. Tensioner. Belt. Cogged idler. Lower smooth idler. Pull pin. Count to three. Release spoon and throw. Simple and easy every time. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted December 12, 2011 Author Share Posted December 12, 2011 Thank you guys! Apparently, I'll be re-doing the entire procedure tomorrow anyway, so the advice is greatly appreciated. I must have the belt a tooth or so off...it would ignite a little, but not enough to stay running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 I have the plier type clamps and always save hunks of old timing belt. This lets me clamp the belt on the cogged crank(old belt piece for kicks to protect cogs). Also I do the same on the cam sprockets but heck a clothes pin may actually even be enough for them. As said install the bottom smooth idler last. Last one I did was a bit unplanned and he only had smaller clamps. Since I had the rad out (fan bolts had broken so we removed it to reattach them) he had an Irwin clamp meant for wood the new kind that kinda ratchet with a release. I put the handle facing down and had room. I've done it htis way for many years and it's the simplest way I've found. Don't forget to slide the tensioner LEFT all the way before tightening those 2 bolts. And don't forget to get the crank bolt TIGHT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Just reread you last post. If it totally dies and you have the air box off double check the stiff hose that goes to the IAC that's hard to see with the other crap in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 Just reread you last post. If it totally dies and you have the air box off double check the stiff hose that goes to the IAC that's hard to see with the other crap in the way. It never actually gets to running, but when cranking it over a couple of the cylinders do ignite (perhaps at the wrong time?) Another question before I tackle this again tomorrow (at a place with no internet)...as long as both the cam and crank are straight up, it should be correct...right? There isn't a way to get the cam phase/crank phase messed up? Sorry guys, just trying to cover all my bases. I don't want to go back Wednesday as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 WHat I'd do first (and just had to do on one a week or so ago I started a thread about here). Take off both ends of the TB cover. See if atleast both cam sprockets HASHES are at the top at the same time. If not you're for sure gonna have to pull harmonic balancer and do belt. If they are lined up your odds may be better at not needing to do the belt. Always DOTS and HASHES never arrows!! After I pull the tensioner pin and give it a while to tighten I do 2 full rotations (watching a cam mark) and recheck before calling it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted December 13, 2011 Author Share Posted December 13, 2011 WHat I'd do first (and just had to do on one a week or so ago I started a thread about here). Take off both ends of the TB cover. See if atleast both cam sprockets HASHES are at the top at the same time. If not you're for sure gonna have to pull harmonic balancer and do belt. If they are lined up your odds may be better at not needing to do the belt. Always DOTS and HASHES never arrows!! After I pull the tensioner pin and give it a while to tighten I do 2 full rotations (watching a cam mark) and recheck before calling it done. Sorry, forgot to mention...this is on a EJ22E. I'm afraid I'm not exactly following with the dots/hashes stuff...don't follow the arrows on the cam sprockets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Correct. IGNORE the ARROWS!! And only pay attention to the crank sprocket tab in the back that has the hash on it (and often a dot on the front that makes it easier but later gets covered up by the harmonic balancer). And the hash marks on the cam sprockets. Using the clamps helps tremendousely too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcap Posted December 16, 2011 Author Share Posted December 16, 2011 Success! Been waiting since USMB went down to give an after-action report! Timing belt action with off without a hitch...once I knew how do actually do it. (damn those arrows!) Headgasket sealed up fine...that has to be the most bizarre headbolt-torquing procedure I've ever seen..., but the Legacy runs great and I rather enjoy it! I now officially own a fuel injected car (after 15+ years and 100+ vehicles); this is the first one. Ever. Next project will be lifting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I call the head bolt torque procedure a Mexican hat dance. I agree the most bizarre I've ever used. Glad you got it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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