Distributor timing

[The FNG]

I could use some help with timing my distributor. I just did the HG's and complete reseal and followed the distributor timing info from Miles Fox's youtube video, but it seems like there is something else that needs to go into the equation. I got the car to run very poorly initially, enough to get it warm and fill the coolant. Then I turned it off and now I get it to start sometimes the bog out, especially when applying gas. I triple checked the timing belts and know that I am not 180* off there, but I am definitely not sure about the distributor timing. I found this info using the search:

 

It's easy to check the disty timing in these. Set the flywheel to 20*, Look at the passenger side cam sprocket, the little dot should be at approximately the 10 o'clock position. If the dot is low on the right side rotate the engine a full revolution to 20* again. Take the 2 bolts out that snug the disty down(8 mm wrench size) unplug the elec. connector and lift the disty straight up and out. Once you have the disty out look at the gear on the bottom, it has a little circle dimple in it (Not the place where the roll pin that holds the gear on goes). Line the little dimple up with the arrow that is on the aluminum at the bottom. This will point the rotor where the num 1 plug wire goes. Take a marker and make a slash on the top lip where the center of the rotor is pointing. Drop the disty back in and make sure that when it is all the way down the center of the rotor is lined up with your little marker slash (The rotor twists as the disty goes down because of the gear). Put the bolts back in and snug them down. Then when you put your cap back on, the plug wire for the num 1 cyl goes on the terminal that is right at your marker slash. From there you can set the rest of your plug wires in their proper place. Plug the elec. connector back in and your timing is set. Best of luck to you, hope you get the little fella running again.

 

Is this right? I also read something about connecting the green test connectors. Any help is greatly appreciated as always.

 

 

91 Loyale SPFI manual trans...

[MilesFox]

You will plug in the green test connectors to hold the timing static for adjustment. assuming spfi, it is 20 deg btdc.

 

The passenger side cam dot will be pointing to the top hard edge of the valve cover, and the driver side at the bottom hard edge of the valve cover.

 

the rotor should be pointing somewhere between the firewall and the brake master cylinder.

 

you could be a tooth off. try rotating the dsty while cranking, or while running to see what it does. rotating the disty to the right advances it, the left retards it.

 

if you are going by the video instructions, this assumes you rotated the engine as if you were setting up to do a timing belt, and then turning the crank to the 0 mark, and dropping the disty.

 

sometimes there will feel like there is an 'in between' toot h on the gear, and if you feel for it, you can get the rotor in between the 2 positions you are probably messing with. you can leave the screws out and play with the alignment of the dist as long as you know your timing belts are correctly aligned, and then install the disty bolts once you get it tuned.

[The FNG]

Thanks Miles. I did all you said in the video, I just had the disty installed wrong. I did the instructions for installing the disty that were in my first post. The dot on the gear needs to be aligned with the metal tab on the housing of the disty. Make a mark at the center of the rotor on the disty housing and install. It worked perfect, but I may still be 2or 3 off, but it runs pretty much like it should.

[MilesFox]

that is a neat trick that i was not aware of. awesome.

[The FNG]

Yeah, put it in your book. I have some fine tuning to do though, but still good.

[The FNG]

Hey I thought I got it timed right because it idles fine, but when you push the gas, it bogs down until the rpms come up. Any thoughts?